I have been climbing for 25 years. Now, since 4 years I am more into Bouldering, easier with the children, but I lack power. I have less time for climbing because of the family, but I have week-ends for Bouldering outdoor and I can train in the evenings during the week. Warm up and then do some recruitment campus moves so that you feel you are at your personal max level. 1. One max campus move and keep dead hanging for five second followed by 30 seconds rest and then repeat with the other hand * 3 sets. 2. Repeat but go up to 10 seconds dead hang and also double the rest. If you feel that you are getting weaker, increase the rest so you can do 6 * 2 exercises, which should take some 12 - 20 minutes.

Gudmund Grønhaug has done the FA of Blodspor 8c in Ekne, which he bolted eleven years ago. Ekne is located two hours south of Flatanger and there are some 130 routes at the spot (topo), half of which were bolted or had FAs by the Norweigian. Five years ago, Adam Ondra tried the vertical route and said it might be an 8c and since then the 43-year-old has gone all in. Adam had been invited to Flatanger by Gudmund, who was one of the pioneers of the giant cave. "Due to rheumatic chronic pain in the knees, hips shoulders, and worst of all, the low back, I need to train something everyday. 3 years ago a mix of events gave me inspiration to train harder and more structured. My book (climbing injuries) was almost finished, we were due to leave the area and move south and I had a lot of pain. I found the inspiration for everyday structured training in this project and the prospect of being able to get out of bed and make breakfast for me and the kids without having to sit down and have a break at least once due to pain. The last two winters I found a method of combining training to reduce pain with performance enhancing training without spending to much time training. “Luckilly” my pain gives me no time to rest and stop training so I train something almost every day. Obviously this pays of! I now have less pain, fever extreme pain periodes and a new (possible) personal high point concerning climbing grades."

After one month of projecting Stephane Hanssens has done Ramon Julian Puigblanue's La Reina Mora, which seems to have been upgraded from 8c to 9a. The Belgian focused on comps as a youngster, then he did some expeditions and now he is back with a focus on sport climbing and World Cup comps. His best results in 2015 were #13 in the Euro Bouldering Championship and #9 in the Imst Lead WC. (c) Guillaume Lion "This is by far, the path which asked me the most efforts. Really happy and what amazing line. Thank you to all the people who helped me in this project."

The big sensational result from the qualification in the first Boulder World Cup 2016, which is taking place in Meiringen in Swizerland, was that Dimitri Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr did not make it to the semfinal Top-20. At the same time as seven male climbers made four out of five boulders, half of the field did not do even a single one! Complete qually results In total, 84 male and 59 female participated. The live streaming starts on Saturday with the semifinal 11.00 - 14.00 and the final 18.30 - 20.30.

Whenever there is a knee-drop solution, my friends always out-climb me. What to do to improve this skill? Climbers who are bad at knee-drop opt for other solutions meaning that they almost never train knee-drop. The fastest way to improve this skill is just to create some boulders where you can practice it over and over again, in combination with some stretching. One way of combining this is simply to just start sitting and repeatedly do the same knee-drop move like ten times. Then you set up a new knee-drop move. I would say that, out of all climbing skills, knee-dropping is the fastest to improve following this advice. Within some weeks, your body, instead of avoiding the obvious knee-drop, will take the advantage of it but it might be several years until you can do it as Adam Ondra. (c) Pavel Zvire

Black Diamond: "Voluntary recall for inspection of Easy Rider and Iron Cruiser Via Ferrata lanyard sets, Index Ascenders, Camalots™ and Camalot™ Ultralights"

Kevin Aglae reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of L'Enfumette 9a in St Leger. (c) Jan Novak

Ryuichi Murai has done the fifth ascent of Dai Koyamada's Hydrangea in Shiobara, which actually was his third 8C in a month. "Finally I send this problem! This is ''Hydra 8B'' + 6 moves 8A/A+. It took me 4 days to climb it. When I joined ''Hydra'' after the 6 moves, I felt it's quite another thing. So, I was fell many times at the part of ''Hydra''. I'm so happy to complete all problems of ''Nodate roof''! Next, I'm going to try Epitaph 8C in Hourai or Project of ''Nodate roof'' in Shiobara." How do you train? I don't particularly training, but I do sometimes ''ABC chin-ups"which is a training that I was taught when I went to the camp in Austria before. ''ABC chin-up'' which I repeat many times. 1. To chin-up three times. 2. To keep 5 seconds with the arm full bend. 3. To chin-up three times. 4. To keep 5 seconds with the arm open 90 degrees. 5. To chin-up three times. 6. To keep 5 seconds with the arm open 120 degrees.