NEWS

13 January 2025

Schubert FA's 8c+ DWS

Jakob Schubert is joined by DWS legend Chris Sharma as he makes the FA of Jelly Pain (8c+) in Mallorca. This route is possibly the sixth hardest DWS routes in the world after Sharmaโ€™s Top-5 hardest.

What do you like about deep-water soloing? Does the danger add spice to the experience?
I like the simplicity, the intensity and the commitment involved. In general, I would say you can limit the danger of deep water soloing quite a bit if you do it the right way. However, you definitely have to go a lot further out of your comfort zone to fight your way up 15 metres above the water with really pumped-up forearms. For example, Chris had a really bad fall on his project, which he recently climbed and now goes by the name of "Vision Quest". You can see it in the video, and it just illustrates that for all the fun, DWS climbing stills has to be taken seriously.

13 January 2025

Will Bosi in Japan #2

Eloi Lorente Garcรญa, 18, ticks Pozo verde power (9a)
Eloi Lorente Garcรญa has has made the first repeat of Enrique Beltran Blascoโ€™s Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. (c) Rebeca Cardenas

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route cost me 13 days of work and from the first days I felt very good on it but the bad conditions and humidity made the process very difficult for me. The route is super physical and very blocky. The first four moves are 8A block, then without rest you have to do another 7A+ block, then you have a medium rest and at the end a 7C block that is quite aleatory.

What is your climbing background?
My experience with climbing began when I was nine years old. Since I was little, I have always liked the mountains and from the first moment I was passionate about climbing. In 2022 when I was 16 years old I did my first 8b the next year, 2023 when I was 17 years old I did my first 8c and this year when I was 18 years I did my first 9a. Due to competitions I donโ€™t have much time to go out on rock but I have always loved it. This season has been quite hard for me and being able to do this route has been something incredible.

What are your plans and ambitions in 2025?
In competitions, this year I would like to be able to reach more than one final in the absolute Spanish championships. My dream has always been to be part of the Spanish climbing team this year. I would like to try to enter and if that is not the case, I can continue getting closer and closer to my dreams.

For this year on rock I donโ€™t have big goals in mind at the moment since the one I had in my sights was to do this 9a but I would like to be able to do 8a+ or 8b onsight. Another thing I have in mind that I would love to do this year is 8B block.

But above all, what I want most for this year is to continue enjoying the processes and the climbing.

Alex Garriga FAโ€™s El Subnormal del Antihydral R2 (9a+/b)
Alex Garriga, who previously last year sent 6 routes 9a and beyond, finished 2024 by doing a 9a+ extension to his El subnormal del antihydral r1 (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Javi Pec

Kacper Heretyk does Martin Krpan (9a)
Kacper Heretyk, who did his first 9a in May, has sent Martin Krpan (9a) in Miลกja Peฤ.

Can you tell us more about sending your second 9a?
It was truly a long battle; it took me several trips, but I have great memories of each one. I love this kind of climbing, where you not only face the challenges of the route but also challenge yourself. The longer I spend on a route, the more emotions I experience during the process of figuring out the moves.

It's a fantastic way to get to know yourself better. Thatโ€™s exactly how it was this timeโ€”once I managed to send the key boulder problem in one go, I made it to the top.

As for the details of the ascent, I completed the route using kneepads. I don't think they affected the difficultyโ€”itโ€™s just that the hooks are very demanding and extremely suited to my style.

When it comes to the number of attempts, it's hard for me to say exactly, but I spent about 10 climbing days on the route (not counting attempts on easier routes that were part of the process).

Yu Okumura does Stoking the Fire (9b)
Yu Okumura reports on Instagram that he has repeated Chris Sharmaโ€™s Stoking the Fire (9b) in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

Previously he has sent, Fuck The system (9a), Chilam Balam (9b), Gancho Perfecto (9a) and Joe Mama (9a+). When it comes to boulders, last year he did La force tranquille (8C).

Vojta Trojan completes Mr Big (9a)
Vojta Trojan, with twelve 9a and beyond climbs under his belt, has ticked Mr. Big (9a) in Margalef. โ€So good! Thanks Tom for such an experience. About the grade I would say rather soft, but itโ€™s my style so I have no idea honestly. And honestly I donโ€™t care so much.. this climb is just amazing.โ€ (c) Vojta Ruta

Can you tell us more about the trip and the send of Mr. Big?
Iโ€™m so syked to be back here in Margalef. I almost forgot how much I like the climbing here! Weโ€™re very lucky with weather our whole stay here - climbing in decent conditions in the sun in Espadelles sector. Sometimes itโ€™s too warm, but it gives you the vacation vibes which is not too bad!

I tried Mr. Big like a side project and got very close to send it very fast, falling on the very last hard move just 3 moves below the anchor. That try I opened a split and had to wait a bit to heal it. In the end I sent the route with a tape, which is maybe the first one for me :D

Piotr Schab onsights nine routes 8a+ to 8b+
Piotr Schab has been on a ten days trip to Alicante where he has onsighted nine routes 8a+ and beyond including 2is evolution (8b+)and El Ultimo Mono (8b+). In total, the 28-year-old Pole has onsighted 36 routes 8b+ and beyond meaning he is a contendor to be the runner-up in the world after Adam Ondra and Patxi Usobiaga in this disciplin. He is also the #1 in the VL yearly onsight ranking game.

Can you tell us more about the trip and your focus on onsight?
New years trip with my family, climbing with my father who introduced me to this world 20 years ago. Mostly onsighting since Iโ€™ve never really climbed in Costa Blanca and always loved onsight game. Cheers to all of the Sella community for a nice week!

Giorgio Tomatis does Selecciรณ Natural (9a)
Giorgio Tomatis has completed Seleccio Natural (9a) in Santa Linya. In total, the 21-year-old has now done seven routes 9a and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This route is a nice testpiece of power endurance. I send it in 8 tries and I felt one time on the last move. I love this stylr of route and I think itโ€™s an hard 9a. In this trip to Santa linya I send also La Novena Puerta (8c+) in 5 tries and I started to try Stoking the Fire (9b), I will come back in by best shape for this oneโš”๏ธ

Less 9a+ and beyond in 2024
Alexey Pinchuk has compiled a comprehensive list of all 9a+ and harder ascents from the past 30 years. In 2021 and 2022, well over 100 of these extreme ascents were recorded. However, the following two years showed a downward trend, with some 90 ascents in 2023 and just around 80 in 2024. The primary reason for this decline in 2024 was the limited number of first ascents (FAs) at 9a+ and above, with only 15 new routes established. Here you have the article with all the stats.

The top list 9a+ to 9c ascents
Adam Ondra 83
Seb Bouin 46
Alex Megos 44
Jorge Diaz-Rullo 37
Stefano Ghisolfi 32
Jonathan Siegrist 31

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