Giorgio Bendazzoli, who won one Euro Youth Lead Cup last year and was the European Champion in 2014, has done his first 9a, L'attimo in Covolo. - L'attimo is the connection of the hard part of two 8c' which I did last years. I started trying it last year but it was a bit over my level...the hotter conditions after winter came in march but the climate was cloudy and humid, not so good for the crimps! This month I also got a contraction in my back that didn't let me to do my best. Now that both physical and weather conditions are perfect it came out the occasion to do this very beautiful line.

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I do not know where to rest and I normally do not feel that I recover when resting. How to optimize recovering rests? This is of course very personal and it depends on each route. If we are talking about real shake-outs, try to get into a yoga meditation mode where you can count your breathing. Chalking up should be done in slow motion. Try to create your bubble. If you are very pumped sometimes you actually need to rest with your arms above your head or just skip the rest if you are close to the anchor.

8a and its members have been working actively against chipping by marking it in the scorecard for many years. Adam Ondra is one of the most active ones with some 59 routes marked as, "Poor / Mainly Chipped". It seems that chipping routes has become much less common lately, which is just great. Another way of reducing the risk that first ascentionists would start chipping again could be to mark the routes as chipped in topos and also stop giving stars to such routes? Sure a nice crossover move is often pretty cool but to manufacture such sequence and then say it is such a nice 3-star route is passing the wrong message.

Alexander Feichter has done the FA of The Walking Dead 9a in Pursteinwand, which is mainly a slab Climb with many Bouldery passages. In practice it is a 35-metre-long link-up of an 8c with an 8A+/B boulder crux and Feichter's third 9a. "The line is a mental killer, because there are so many Boulder parts on the slab where you can really fall on every move. Therefore you have to be very calm during the Ascent. After the ascent I was stunned happy that this project became reality. Slab climbing is a crazy thing. What I liked was the natural Gneis-Granit stone in this line. Normally I train exclusively force on my pull up board. Additionally, I'm practicing sometimes some indoor training in climbing halls but three-quarters of the training I'm doing at home with my own utilities."

Shauna Coxsey, who won the first WC two weeks ago, won all three rounds in Kazo and in the final she was so superior that she has already secured the title after three problems. Melissa Le Neve was the runner-up as she was also in the first event and in total she has been #2, four times. 1. Shauna Coxsey GBR 4t7 4b7 2. Melissa Le Neve FRA 2t2 4b5 3. Miho Nonaka JAP 2t3 4b6 Complete results

Rustam Gelmanov, WC winner in 2012, won the great event in Kazo with excellent route setting and commentary. The big sensation was that the 20-year-old Michael Piccolruaz, who was #45 in the first event, got the silver after being #17 in the qually and second last into the semifinal. Interesting is also that nobody from the Top-8 in the first event made it to the final in Kazo. 1. Rustam Gelmanov RUS 3t3 4b4 2. Michael Piccolruaz ITA 2t2 4b8 3. Kokoro Fujii JAP 2t4 3b6 Complete results

Martin Stráník, who was #2 in the first WC, did not notice when the isolation for the semi started and was disqualified as he was four minutes late. "Sometimes shit happens...I was late in isolation for 4 minutes, come at 8.04, and all my thinks were just about that i am soooo stupid! I was just looking on provisional program and thought that there is no change for semis isolation time, because nothing was mentioned on meeting ....but provisional has changed..shit shit shit, I am sorry for all of you and now very angry on myself and sad."

We're thrilled to announce that the private beta for our new scorecard has been launched! The first 500 users on the mailing list got access today and we're expanding to more users soon. If you would like to get a beta invite, head over to the Beta website and sign up for the newsletter! First new features: - Full responsive redesign -- Designed for all devices ranging form mobile phones to desktop computers - New scorecard layout - New trend graph -- Stacked linegraph showing different types of ascents -- It is now possible to switch between points and number of ascents - Less page refreshes when using the scorecard - Less advertisements results and a more friendly user experience

Alex Megos has had some extremely productive days in Sweden. First he established the hardest graded problem in Sweden, Jon Assis 8B/+ in Focksta and did a handful of 8A's and harder. The last 2.5 days he has spent in Västervik where he has been amazed of the high quality of rock. In Västervik, he did 16 boulders 8A and harder including five 8B's. (c) Daniela Ebler