NEWS

Just log-in and start adding climbers and crags that you want to get automatic updates on. Ascents will be presented under "My Updates", at the top of the left column. For Crags you can even select a grade intervall.

My slab performance is like four grade worse compared to overhang and I know it is the feet that it is the problem. It is just natural that today with all good power oriented gyms many have problems with slab with poor feet. Technics on slab can only be trained on the scene. In general it is about putting as much weight on the foot as possible. Often it also relates to mantle technics, meaning you are hanging on one hand with fingers pointing downwards. Regarding shoes, they should be stiff and new. Indoors and on steep terrain outdoors, soft and worn-out footwear works great but the key on slabs are stiff and new shoes. Good luck :)

9a/+ FA by Seb Bouin
Tendon reports on Facebook that Seb Bouin has made a new link up in Villanoeva del Rosario making the FA of Mangarbo 9a/+. Seb has previously done several routes up to 9b and should be among the Top-10 in the world the last few years. (c) V. Romera

8a visitors are very active and dedicated
Official Similarweb statistics show that the 8a visitors stay 15 minutes on the site, which can be compared with 3 minutes for the main competitors. (UKC, Climbing, R&I and Planet M.) The average of page viewings for 8a is seven and for the competitors it is three. Furthermore, meanwhile 84% of the 8a visitors actively go to 8a, the competitors get only 41% of their traffic direct, the rest comes from Facebook and Google search etc. One possible explanation for this is that the other sites have been so active on Facebook etc so this is now their prime source of visitors. At the same time, one could assume that due to the Facebook-origin traffic, a large amount of the competitors' traffic is based on not so active climbers/non-climbing friends. Anyhow, the uniqueness of 8a not being active on Facebook etc and instead getting the real climbers' interest of getting updated on the climbing scene is what we are proud of. For 2016, we have made new records in sale and in fact, 95% of all banner placements are already booked :) This means that we have more resources to speed up the new design and functionality.

62 000 members have rated 3.9 million ascents, which, through the Ticklists, will help you to find the best crags and climbs in the world. Just go to the Crag Ticklist and you will get the best routes and boulders ranked. You can Search by Grades, Onsight percentage or number of Ascents. Later you can print the 8a Tick List out. Finding the best climbs with the same Search options is also available in the 8a Topo App, where you can also add the ascents to your scorecard.

9a again by Fedir Samoilov (19)
Fedir Samoilov, who did his first 9a last month, has done his second, Hades in Nassereith. - I feel like I can climb harder and would like to try many projects especially in Spain. But now pause until the autumn: in the near future competitive season begins. There are plans to speak of the junior European Cups and championships, of course on the World Cup in Imst, Arco, Chamonix, Brianรงon and Kranj. And the ultimate goal of this year - is the Junior World Championships in China. Then again, climbing on rocks. In Spain, I expect the grade 9a+. I hope this project will be an interesting end of the year and the beginning of next year. Plans interesting and great. I hope to find sponsors to help me carry out my plan

How to train my biceps in a fun way to get as good lock-off power as the boys? Just doing pull-ups is dead boring! Yuji Hirayama once told me that one of his best training exercises was simply to lock-off and count to five on every move also on easier Routes or Boulders. You can actually make it a game with your friends when Bouldering indoors. However, do not overdo it the first few times in order not to get an elbow injury.

The climbing market is growing and so is the competition between producers. In comparison to some years ago, it seems that the prices in general have dropped some 15% and on EPICTV SHOP you can buy Shoes and 60-meter-long Ropes for below 100 euro. Quickdraws start from Euro 8 and harnesses are available for Euro 35, and we talk about high class products. Here are some examples: La Sportiva Testarossa 99 E Five Ten Hiangle 110 E Tenaya Oasi 90 E Boreal Kintaro 85 E Mammut 10.2 m rope 108 E Tendon harness 38 E

Tomoa Narasaki onsighting the third Boulder in China
The winner of the Chongqing Boulder World Cup, Tomoa Narasaki (19). (c) Udo Neuman

Two 8b's by Chuck Odette (60)
Chuck Odette, who started climbing some 40 years ago, has done two 8b's in Hurricane; Inner Worlds and Big Man On Campus (in the picture). The great and inspiring story is that Chuck, who has put up 50+ routes 8a and harder, did his first 8b+ being 44 years old and now he is 60.