NEWS

Be One reduces rope wear
Be One is an innovation from Beal that will reduce rope wear, which is especially useful for the redpoint guys working on their projects. Be One has an enlarged receiving zone meaning lower impact on the rope. Instead of the normal thin and often oval bottom of the carbiner, Be One is thicker and more rounded. If you are one of the projecting redpointers, it might be a very good investment to place a Be One at the crux as it will reduce rope wear.

Four 8A's for Karo Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber, who was #5 in the China Boulder World Cup last month, has done four 8A's during the last week, including Nothing Changes (in the picture). Full story and more great pics by Lorenz Ulmer.

Sweden, Italy and Slovenia got two gold medals in the European Youth Cup in Imst. Even so, Austria was the best country overall with seven medals. Germany continues having hard time to get any good results and their best result, achieved by the handful of participats they had, was #9. 97: Kajsa Rosen SWE - Hannes Puman SWE 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Filip Schenk ITA 01: Laura Rogara ITA - Luka Potocar SLO

Adam Ondra has done a quick one day ascent of Alex Megos' Geocache 9a+ in Frankenjura, which actually took Megos six days and 40 tries. - Almost did in a couple of tries in the short morning session, but punted really hard on the very top. Then I took a rest and sent it in the evening. Regarding to the grade, I agree with Alex that it is strange route most of all (even though it is very cool and fun to climb). And hard too, but how hard is the question. I am considering that the route fits my style, being tall helps a tiny bit and I feel in a good shape, I guess 9a+ could be OK. But conditions were rather humid, even though it was not 30 degrees as the previous day.

In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules and small need for referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners sometimes struggle to understand what "normal" behavior means, what's allowed and what's not. Over the time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply. Read full article from 2002. In order not to decide exactly what is Right or Wrong, we have chosen to present the Practice & Ethics in Sport Climbing as a traffic light system. Please speak your mind.

Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!
Jon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Cรฉรผse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries. - Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

Mammut's #Project360 Conquers Mount Everest
Mammut has added the southern classical route up to the top of Mount Everest to their #Project 360. Go to Mammut 360 website. "A small group of four Sherpas attended to the honourable task to bring the Everest into the living rooms of the fans of alpine sports by these three-dimensional recordings. Likewise, it is an homage to the first climbers Edmund Hillary and Tensing Norgay who have already chosen this route in 1953. A customized backpack with altogether six cameras facilitates the perfect omnidirectional view. Via mouse click and in pin-sharp quality the virtual climber experiences the challenging climbing passages: He conquers par example the crevasses of the Khumbu Icefall, climbs the Hillary Step, a twelve meters high and steep cliff edge, which represents the final obstacle before he reaches the summit. The reward is the view from highest point on earth โ€“ the choice of the different perspective is always up to the viewer. The recordings are also provided via app.

Cathy Wagner has done her 16th 8a+ of the last year, Mr Power in Verdon. In total, the 50-year-old has done 125 routes of this difficulty, including 11 routes graded 8b. When it comes to 8a's, the French lady has done 421 of them and she is still progressing doing more every year!

TNF Mountain Festival 16-18/8 at the foot of Eiger
"Introducing The North Faceยฎ Mountain Festival, an immersive celebration of exploration, set in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland, at the foot of one of the most iconic mountains in the Alps, the Eiger, from 16 โ€“ 18th September 2016. Leave normal behind and disconnect yourself for a weekend, joining likeminded modern day adventurers for a unique opportunity to taste and trial the delights of day to day outdoor living in a breath-taking natural setting. From running mountainous trails for the first time, to following a pro athlete up a rock-face, learning gourmet expedition cookery or simply sharing tales of extreme adventure around a campfire, there will be something for everyone. The festival caters for all levels from novice to advance with both introductory and challenging, hikes, trail runs and climbs in stunning scenic surroundings, led by The North Faceยฎ professional athlete team. The festival is designed to equip you with all the skills and knowledge needed to become an avid adventurer, with expert mountain guides and athletes on hand providing basecamp workshops and talks including inspiring stories of exploration, epic outdoor cinema, adventure photography and expedition kit prep. For the brave and intrepid there will be the chance to experience paragliding or rafting, and even attempt to summit the Eiger alongside one of the The North Faceยฎ athletes. This truly will be an adventure to remember" Video presentation and here you have all details.