BOREAL | Alex Txikon on Nanga Parbat – The 4 keys to success! from BOREAL Outdoor on Vimeo.

Thilo Schröter has flashed Monkey Business 8B (A+), which actually was put up by Dave Graham as an 8B+. Asking Thilo how much beta he got, his ascent gets more impressive as he only had the holds pointed out by Martin Mobråten, who did it in 2014. - It was just another day trying a new boulder for me. I always try to flash any boulder I try, not because I care that much, but why not really. One only has one flash attempt and besides that it's good comp training! I knew that I could flash it if I didn't make any mistakes, and I didn't. That feeling of flawless climbing on intuition is pretty sweet, so I was definitely happy!

- Let’s just say I’ve climbed some 8c+ that have felt a lot harder. And I’ve climbed some 8c+ that have felt a lot easier. Full story on Planet Mountain

Angie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c this spring being 11-years-old, has done another four 8a's in Margalef, one out of which she onsighted: Pollastre de Granja. The Australian is in Europe on a four month trip being home scholed. Here is an 8a INTERVIEW from last month.

The North Face has created a training App as well as a new collection for Mountain Sports. The trail running shoes shown in the picture have a Vibram sole and forefoot protection ultra trail running. This Snake Plate™ feels almost like landing on a crash pad.

Olympic.org reports that today the International Olymic Committe (IOC) supported the proposal to include five new sports, sport climbing among them, to the programme of the Olympic Games 2020 in Tokyo. The final decision will be made in Rio de Janeiro in early August. IFSC has suggested a Combined format where 20 male and female will compete for one set of medals based on who is best overall in Speed, Boulder and Lead altogether. In should be noted that many of the best climbers have been extremely critical towards the suggested concept, including both Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra.

Alex Barrows has done The Wheel of Life in Grampians, which is a 70 moves horizontal endurance testpiece that Dai Koyamada put up as an 8C+ in 2004. Alex, who is on a 7.5 months road trip after getting his PHD, chose to give it a route grade of 9a, which seems to be the consensus grade to 8C nowadays. Interesting, the endurance master who has done Era Vella 9a before, says soft 8B+ would have been his boulder grade. Full story in his well written blog (c) Ella Rusell

Cathy Wagner has done Mr Benjoin 8b in Verdon, which shows that she is at her peak being 50 years old. In total she has done 647 routes 8a and harder, 60 out of which in last year. Would it not be nice if the grand lady could inspire us all by doing her first 8b+ this year?

The Kalymnos topo was one of the first to give specific guidelines on how close the first bolts should be placed. #1 at the most on 2.8 meters above ground, #2 at four meters and the #3 at six meters. Even if this guideline has had a great impact on reducing a number of "old school" potentially deadly routes, the FFME recommendation does not make hitting the ground avoidable when clipping the second or third bolt. If you fall while clipping the second bolt, based on FFEM, at least 1.5 meter rope will be out. This means that your feet will actually hit the ground before the rope gets tight. (First bolt 2.8 meter above ground but including the hanger and quick-draw it is 2.5 meters. Add 1.5 meters rope and that your feet is 1 meter below your harness.) If you fall while clipping the third bolt at six meters based on FFME example, you will also hit the ground as normally 2.5 meters rope is out. (4 meters, minus 0.3 for bolt and hanger and 2.5 meters rope, 0.5 meter dynamic and 1 meter for feet below the harness.) Climbing is a risky sport and clearly the FFEM bolting guidelines have had positive impact but with the new generation of 6a gym climbers who want to come out to the rock, it should be revised. Here are the 8a bolting recommendations for easier routes: #1 at 3 meters #2 at 4 meters #3 at 5.5 meters #4 at 7.5 meters #5 at 10 meters If we are talking about very hard routes with a relatively much easier start, it is normally OK with longer distance in between the bolts. When it comes to clipping positions and grades, on a 6a route the clipping positions should be adjusted to 160 cm climbers meanwhile on an 8a route, 170 cm could be applicable.

UKC reports that Alex Megos has done Hubble, which Ben Moon set up in 1990 as an 8c+. It has been repeated four times and none of the repeaters have suggested 9a for it. However, as many strong climbers like Ondra, Graham and McColl have tried it without success the media have started to speculate whether it should be upgraded to 9a. In fact, UKC actually says that, "it's regarded as the first 9a in the world." - 8c+, 9a+ or 8b+. Who cares?! It's the name that counts! And the name is HUBBLE! It's a piece of history! Thanks @ben_moon for putting up that thing and for having a vision! A vision for hear is possible, the next step! Pic @dave_heaton