Jan Kareš will go for a world record - 232 continuous pull-ups attempt - next month. The amazing thing is that he is 42 years old and weighs 81 kg. The simple secret is frequent high intensity training meaning doing about eight pull-ups, then rest 20 seconds and continue in this way for 30 minutes. In 1998, he was #17 in a Lead World Cup but nowadays he is a bolting and onsight fanatic. Since 2008, Jan has spent some 150 days bolting, paying everything by himself, in Sardinia and that is what he does during all his vacations. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe. The video includes possibly the biggest climbing cave in the world, where Adam Ondra has already been invited. More info and pics soon.

Stefano Carnati has done the 19th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura after over 60 tries. - I first checked it in august 2013 and on my second go I could do all the moves except the first dyno. I came back a couple of times in 2015 as I wanted to try it more seriously but I was not strong enough. Last year in June I was very close to do it, falling at the last move on the last day of the trip! Then I tried in august with a broken meniscus and temps up to 38 °C and I couldn't do any moves! Fortunately I had the opportunity to come back these days and eventually send it! It took me over 60 tries!! With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home. Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history! I've been watching videos of the routes countless times!

Having got some emails saying that there there had been much less climbers at the popular sectors on Kalymnos this year, I asked (c) Aris Theododopoulos if he could find another explanation for it, apart from the fact that Ryan Air have reduced their number of flights with 50% last two years. - Actually this year the airport of Kos has 25% less arrivals in comparison with last year. I think this is happened first of all because of the refugee situation at Greek islands last year. Kalymnos it is at its best quality ever, with more than 3.000 friendly bolted routes with a big rebolting project just completed. Another possible reason why there have not been any queues this spring, even on the popular routes, is that it seems climbers are more frequently checking out the new sectors, especially on Telendos. There is also new sector being developed just on the other side of Arginonta with possibly close to 100 mainly easier routes with just 5 - 10 minutes approach. Full info on the refugee situation, new routes and rebolting. Mayte Radek at Axium 6c+, Ghost Kitchen.

Most advanced climbers are very close to their physical peak when it comes to maximum strength and endurance. Surely, the advanced could improve a bit if they spend another 100 hours which possibly could mean they could do their project. However, based on the knowledge that the #1 rock climbers, Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi, are also possibly the most flexible advanced climbers out there, it might be better to invest the extra hours improving your flexibility rather than your strength. When you come to the regular 8a climber, I bet, training flexibility is at least ten times more effective rather than doing another campus or endurance session. (c) Pavel Zvire

USA Today reported last month that Andrew Shapiro had set three world records in pull-ups. After six hours he did 3 515 of them, after 12 hours - 5 742 and then he continued another six hours to set a new 24 hours record with 7 306. The Guiness book official record holder for 6, 12 and 24h, is Jan Kares (41) who did 6 800 in 24 hours. In 1998, Kares was #17 in a Lead World Cup.

Megan Mascarenas took an impressive victory in front of her home crowd topping out all four problems in just five tries. The lowest WC result since the 18-year-old won in Vail last year is #4, whereas one of her biggest successes is winning Adidas Rock Master. In the 8a ranking game she is #3 and she has not finished highschool yet. Shauna Coxey was #2, which means she has secured the overall victory 2016. Among the male, Kokoro Fujii won again and he is now in the overall lead in front of Tomoa Narasaki, who was second in Vail. #3 was Alexey Rubtsov, who also is #3 overall. Among the top-5, there were only guys from Japan or Russia and the biggest change this year is how Japan dominates the scene at the same time when the western Europeans are having their worst year ever. (c) Eddie Fowke

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a being 14 years old, has done Il traverso dei sogni 8c in Collevardo in five tries during one day. Later she onsighted Tomorrowland 8a+ and the 15-year-old is #1 in the female ranking game.

1. Shauna Coxsey 480 GBR - Tomoa Narasaki 362 JPN 2. Miho Nonaka 346 JPN - Kokoro Fujii 355 JPN 3. Melissa Le Neve 313 FRA - Alexey Rubtsov 307 RUS 4. Akiyo Noguchi 259 JPN - Rustam Gelmanov 267 RUS 5. Monika Retschy 229 GER - Jongwon Chon 264 KOR 6. Megan Mascarenas 220 USA - Sean McColl 232 CAN In the above rankings, the worst result has not been included. Shauna Coxsey has secured the overall title counting four victories and once being the runner-up. If Alexej wins the last event in Munich in August, Narasaki needs to be #6 and Fujii #4 to win overall. The biggest blow in 2016 is that Japan has strengthened their position and that western Europe is having the worst results ever among the male. However, this relates to the fact that only one male, Jan Hojer, has participated in at least all but one event.

Rafa Fanega, who started climbing in 1991, has done his fifth 8c+, La Chispa in Villanueva del Rosario. The amazing news is that the 41-year-old has done three of his 8c+'s during the last eight months. In the 8a ranking game for 40+, the 163 cm tall, who has made 55 8b to 8c+ FAs, is #2.