NEWS

In April 2016 an international team of climbers was the first to receive permission to climb in Zhangjiajie, Chinaโ€™s first and largest National Forest Park, located in the northern Hunan province of south-central China. With more than 3,000 unique orange sandstone pillars reaching to the clouds, this stunning UNESCO World Heritage site attracts over 30 million visitors annually. Despite being a tourist attraction, the parkโ€™s regulations prevented climbers from exploring Zhangjiajieโ€™s maze of freestanding towers.

A Song for Tomorrow - Climbing in Qingfeng Valley (CHN) from World of Freesports on Vimeo.

Rustam Gelmanov repeats Hypnotized Minds 8C+
The Circuit Climbing reports with a video that Rustam Gelmanov has done the first repeat of Hypnotized Minds in just three days, which Daniel Woods the first ascentionist just upgraded to 8C+. The Russian has previously done at least an 8B+ and he is currently #2 in the IFSC World Ranking.

La Grotta dei Colombi needs fanatic bolters
La Grotta dei Colombi is located near Cala Gonone on Sardinia and is possibly the biggest climbing cave in Europe. The potential is 100 routes with up to 50 meters overhang and 100 meters long. The rock quality is superb: it is full of tufas and pockets and on the sides, more vertical rock and also some slabs. It is also possible to climb both during winter and summer. Until now, a team from Czech Republic created mainly by Jan Kares, Slรกvek Dostรกl and Tomas Truhelka, who has helped us out with collecting some further info, has put up ten routes. "The outbreak of our bolting in Sardinia fully started in Chistmas 2008. And has never stopped... The tightly knitted relationship between us, bolting and Sardinia has so far resulted in approx. 2.300 bolts used to put up some 220 routes at 12 crags. The latest addition to the crag family is recently discovered Grotta di Colombi, which aspires to one of the greatest caves in Europe. All equipment and bolting steel have been paid for with old hard cash from mainly Janโ€™s pockets. Along with travel cost, accommodation and litres of doppios. Forget sponsoring or contributions from locals, we never asked that to be a part of the deal. Somehow, however, this innocent hobby accelerated to dimensions no longer acceptable without help from outside. Should you feel you can help us at any way to develop many beautiful crags in Sardinia, please contact Jan at [email protected]. Any help is greatly appreciated. There is abundance of bolting material and tools, but the manpower is whatโ€™s desperately needed.

China Doll 8b+ on trad by Heather Weidner (36)
Heither Weidner has done China Doll 8b+ R on trad in Boulder Canyon. The R stands for that it is risky due to poor gear and long in between. "Combined pitch one (13c) and pitch 2 (13d) on gear. Used one fixed pin and one fixed nut on the extension. Started on 5.7 solo traverse. I can't believe I did this!!! My biggest climbing accomplishment to date. Huge thanks to Chris for the countless belays, I've been working this just over a year. Dream come true!!!" Heither is the fourth female to reach 8b+ at trad after Lynn Hill did it in 1993, Beth Rodden in 2008 (8c+) and Barbara Zangerl in 2014. Interview is coming up. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louderthan11, who is making a feature film of her accomplishment.

Laura Rogora, the regining Italian Champion in both Lead and Boulder, trains at a small gym outside Rome. - It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition.

Sharma and Becan Training Camp
Enjoy 5 intensive days of climbing, yoga, nutrition tips, movie projections and tourism in one of the top cities of the world. Adults Camp lasts from July 4th to 8th; Teens camp - from July 18th to 22nd. Are you in? Our mission is to transmit our knowledge, experience of climbing (at the highest level on the rock or in competitions) to enable you to become a better climber and develop a deeper connection and appreciation for climbing as a life path. Besides sharing their training and climbing experiences Chris and Klemen will also transmit their secrets to staying motivated and strong throughout ups and downs in oneโ€™s climbing journey. More info.

UKC has made an interview with Alex Honnold, who recently did some impressive grit stone routes. Interestingly he speaks out saying that he does not agree with the UK ethics and the grading. - I think I have a pretty decent feel for UK climbing ethics and the grading scale and all that. I just donโ€™t fully appreciate it I guess. I donโ€™t see whatโ€™s wrong with tasteful bolting. I love climbing and dislike all the faffing about that pure trad climbing requires. Iโ€™d rather spend all that faffing time just climbing. But obviously I respect the history of climbing in the UK and can certainly play by the imposed rules. I just donโ€™t totally agree with them. It can also be noted that Alex has recorded four grit routes from Fair Head including The Complete Scream which UKC reported as an E8 ascents which equivalents to a 7c+. Alex recorded it as a 7a+ commenting, "E7 6b, though it didn't really feel that hard."

Two 8B's by Isabelle Faus, who is the new #1
Isabelle Faus has done two 8B's, The Automator in RMNP and Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. During the last year, she has done one 8B+, five 8B's and nine 8A+'s and she is the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. - I think my progress is a result of just doing my own thing and enjoying climbing, quitting competition climbing has helped me the most I was always to focused in the gym, trying hard but not really accomplishing anything, and even if I did well in a competition it wasn't satisfying because in the end it is just plastic. Climbing on rock means new experiences every day and that keeps it fun and motivating for me.