NEWS

Great sport, boulder and big wall potential in Iran
khosro hashemzadeh reports that he and his team have put up the hardest MP in Iran, the 15 pitches Python in Bisotun-Kermanshah with pieces up to 8a/+. The route was bolted by Hasan Javadian, who is dying for bolting another route. Khosro estimates that there are some 5 000 climbers in Iran and more than 100 crags and there is more potential also for Bouldering and Big Wall.

Painting grades with a paint marker that can be brushed away
Painting names makes it easier to find the Route or Boulder you are looking for but if you do not have a topo, the grade is even more important. The problem is of course that the grade can be changed and that it is kind of hard using a paint brush. With the paint marker in the picture, it is super easy to paint grades on the rock and if the grade changes, you can brush it away with some water within a minute, at least on granite.

Delirium 8C by David Graham
David Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, has done his 14th 8C, Delirium and comments on Facebook. (c) Diego Montull - Made the 3rd ascent of Delirium [8c] last night up at Wolvoland after the big thunderstorm โšก๏ธโšก๏ธโšก๏ธ YESSSSS!!!! Amazing roof to bulge problem established by @jwebxl a couple years ago. 7 days of effort spread over the last three weeks. Super challenging conditions this June! Extreme heat, thunderstorms, or just pure rain made the send seem like a pipe dream, especially after falling off the last move two separate occasions with the same disastrous heel slip punting. Super relieved I could piece this thing together before heading to South Africa

Two 8B+'s and one 8A+ flash by Tamรกs Zupรกn
Tamas Zupan, who did his second 8C this spring after driving 7 000 km to it, has had his most productive bouldering days ever. During three days he did two 8B+'s, Phase 2 in Sustenpass, Entlinge in Murgtal and his first 8A+, God save the queen in Steingletscher. "Today the force is with me :) It has been my best climbing day ever." The picture is from Entlinge.

Two 8A (+)'s in Rocklands by Karo Sinnuber and Hannah Midtbรถ
Karo Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this year, and Hannah Midtbรถ are having great days in Rocklands, having both done two 8A (+)'s, Nutsa and Tea with Elmaire. In the photo you can see Karo on Tea with Elmarie, which she actually did in just one session. "Fight of my life. but happy that i did it :-)"

9a (8c+) by Mar รlvarez (36)
Mar รlvarez, who works as a firefighter, has done Manu Lopez's Kif Kif demain 9a (8c+) in Bielsa. The 153 cm tall, who previously has done two 9aยดs, did it going straight up, eliminating a good rest to the right like the FA. In total she needed 17 days to take it down. - An excellent route that I have enjoyed since the first day. Thanks to Guillaume for bolting it, and the BTR team for being a source of inspiration and motivation.

9a FA by Jonathan Siegrist in Rawyl
Jonathan Siegrist has spent some time in Switzerland, where he has made the FA of Hyper Finale 9a in Rawyl. Photo by Fred Moix. This was actually the fourth 9a in Switzerland during the last six weeks. R&I Switzerland interview and more updates on JStar's blog

Projects up to 9c for Ondra in Flatanger
Adam Ondra is back home after the first trip to Flatanger this year and he speaks about the upcoming projects. (c) Petr Pavlรญฤek - Well, the projects are obvious, but the problem (or good thing?) is that they are super hard. The most feasible project is "Kangaroo Dyno", which includes dyno that is much harder than 3 Degrees of Separation dyno. I am pretty sure it is an 8A dyno single move, but you have to get there by climbing 8c+/9a. It will be probably 9b, but 9b which all about one dyno is super hard for me. The rest of the projects are even harder, such as "Change variation" 9b+ hard, and "Project Big" and "Project Hard", both possible 9c's. Especially Project Big is the LINE of the cave and the dream of my life, but I think it will take a few seasons, but let's see. I do not want to make too much pressure on myself, I will try the projects this summer a bit, but if they feel milion miles away, I will try my luck in the future. I am super happy as I have just finished first bachelor studies and after 3 years of hectic life I want to enjoy climbing outdoors to the fullest.

9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights
Adam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti." In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.