NEWS

8C FA by Paul Robinson again
Paul Robinson, one of the exploring guys, who has put up most hard core Boulders, has done his fifth 8C FA, The Dragon's Guardian in Cederberg after two years of projecting. (c) Jacques Vanzyl - After, a big storm, I woke up to perfect conditions. I marched up the hill and straight to this roof. After a short warm up and a quick refresher on some of the moves, I took a few deep breaths, chalked up, and sent the line that I once thought could never be climbed! The process of it all really was just as amazing as standing atop of what I am now naming, "The Dragon's Guardian, 8C/V15. Full story on his FB.

Yves Saint Fromage som bรถrjade klรคttra 1994 har gjort sin fรถrsta 8a, Sator pรฅ ร–rnberget.

Adam Ondra has done the FA of The Right of Passage 9a in Flatanger. "Amazing extension of Andre Hoyre. Now finally goes up to the easy terrain and the top is not easy... Flatanger at its best in its left less steep part." In total, Adam has opened eleven routes graded 9a to 9b+ in Flatanger and by doing so he created the crag with the most hard core routes in the world... and there are still plenty of projects like the 9c the Czech is working on now.

Almost 200 climbers competed in Warsaw Euro Youth Boulder Cup
Stasa Gejo was the most superior climber and winner in the European Youth Cup in Bouldering in Warsaw. She did all the 12 boulders, including onsighting all four final problems. She has won all the five Youth comps she has entered in last two years and her worst Boulder WC result, out of three, is #9. Several coaches mentioned that it was really well-organized and that the route setting was very good. However, the new final format with rotation start was a bit strange because the late starters could watch the early starters. An interesting fact about the competition in Warsaw is also that no nation dominated and that Eastern Europe seemed to be picking up again. 97: Stasa Gejo SRB - Simon Lorenzi BEL 99: Giorgia Tesio ITA - Marcus Nimrod ISR 01: Vanda Michalkova SVK - Sam Avezou FRA

Second 9a FA by Loic Zehani (14)
Loic Zehani, who did his first 9a being 13 years old but recorded it as an 8c+, has done his second 9a FA, L'enfance prolongรฉe in Orgon. - This is a route bolted by Thomas Sandri two years ago. It is a nice regular overhang, very resistant climbing on pockets with an section 7B+ FB in the middle. After this first 32 moves: It's "la belle enfance" (8c+). You have a rest. After that you have a nice part, less overhang on a nice black rock. This part (23 moves) is around 8a+. The first part took me 17 tries but I knew perfectly the second part and I don't fall in. I am so happy because it's THE LINE of this nice little sEctor of Orgon.The rock is completly different than the famous "canal" of Orgon.

Thor's Hammer 9a+ by Sachi Amma
Sachi Amma, one of the best climbers of several last years, reports on Facebook that he has done Thor's Hammer 9a+ in Flatanger. Adam Ondra did the FA of the 55 meters super steep line in 2012 and last year it has become the most often repeated 9a+ with seven ascents. (c) Eddie Gianelloni

9a FA by Thomas P. O'Halloran in Blue Mountains
Tom O'Halloran has done the FA of Baker's Dozen in Blue Mountains. - The route is a direct start into an already existing classic 7c. It has about 12m of independent climbing before reaching the upper slab of the 7c. I did bolt it and it took me 20+ days to complete. There is plenty more potential for hard routes in the Blue Mountains. I have at least 3 projects I have bolted that will be 9a and harder. Plus a whole bunch that will be about 8c+. I also have an 8 pitch multi pitch proj I have bolted which will have pitches up to about 8b+. My friends Lee and Ben Cossey also have lots of hard projects they have bolted that will be 9a and harder. The best part is that all these projects are less than 20 minute drive from my home. I just wish I could have more time to climb to try and get them done. Between work and being a father, it can be tricky to find enough days sometimes. But it just makes you want it more.

8B by Karoline Sinnhuber in Rocklands
karoline sinnhuber has done her second 8B, Fragile Steps in Rocklands and she goes to #3 in the ranking game. Pic from Caroline 7C+, which she did last week. - Started a solo mission very early due to hot temperatures. Shitty conditions today.. fell two days ago from the very end (with perfect conditions) so happy about the send :-)

Stefano Carnati has done Conde de Choc 9a in Entraygues. "Upper part in common with Deltaplane man direct 8c+ which I tried some times last year and sent today in the morning. Tried the first hard part once last year. Sent at 7.30 pm today! Of course I started with the third bold clipped."