NEWS

Monkey Wedding 8C also by Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the 8th ascent of Fred Nicole's Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands. - Feels good to complete a climb I started such a long time ago, but crossing one last climb off my list also marks the end of an era for me in Rocklands. Luckily there are still plenty of great projects in sight to keep busy and new areas to continue developing!

Janja Garnbret (17) superior again
Pouring rain and wet holds did not stop Janja Garnet from topping in the final after a great fight although she was timed out. The 17-year-old Slovenian has not been beaten by any of the 12 routes during the 2016 World Cup. (c) Luka Fonda Complete results 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Jessica Pilz AUT 3. Magdalena Rรถck AUT

Shock absorption heal from Boreal
During Outdoor in Friedrichshafen, Boreal presented a patented shock absorption heal system which will be used in their Joker shoe. This sounds interesting as it is quite common to get an injury in your heal after falling in Bouldering or hitting the wall hard when falling on a route. 8a will receive some samples to test this autumn. "One of the major changes has been to our Heel Fit System, a cushioned layer beneath the heel for improved shock absorption. This year, a modified outsole incorporates a special cavity beneath the heel, preventing excessive compression of the EVA layer. This provides improved cushioning while maintaining excellent fit inside the shoe."

Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins again
- It is a mental change for sure. I have not trained more...and I did not let Villars destroy my feelings, Domen Skofic comments on his progress in 2016 getting his second victory, in the live-streaming. The Slovenian takes the overall lead with 225 points ahead of Sean McColl with 208 points. Last year Domen, who is #3 in the 8a ranking game, was #4 overall. (c) Luka Fonda Complete results. 1. Domen Skofic SLO 2. Romain Desgranges FRA 3. Sean McColl CAN

This year the live streaming has been better than ever, with great camera work and nice interviews. However, it is not OK that the commentator sometimes misled the audience by giving wrong results or could not directly say that Domen Skofic won, even if it was very clear for any climber with competition experience. On the other hand, unless a non-experienced commentator can understand who is in the lead etc, IFSC should work on live scoring in addition to marking at least some holds with a score. It is also very hard to understand why before Jain Kim started he did not explain to the audience that time will be decisive about the winner if she got identical results as Janja Garnbret. To give the audience split time to get a feeling who was the faster climber would have increased the excitement. I am afraid it has been like this since the World Cup live streaming start and it is sad that IFSC does not demand at least a co-commentator that could provide us with correct facts and updated results. Probably the best solution would be to have one of the route setters as a co-commentator.

Live streaming tonight 19.30 from Briancon
The third stage of the Lead World Cup starts today in Briancon, from where the semifinal will be live-streamed between 19.30 and 22.30. Interesting is that three of the Top-6 ranked male boulderers will participate: Sean McColl from Canada and Alex Rubtsov with Rustam Gelmanov from Russia. (c) Eddie Fowke from The Circuit On Sunday, the female finals start at 19.30 followed by the male at 21.00.

Great show in Briancon final, where Janja Garnbret was the first one to top and the 17-year-old did it shaking out on most of the last moves. In fact, this was the eleventh WC route in 2016 and nobody has reached higher than Janja on any route. Also Jain Kim and Anak Verhoven topped the 8b+ route meaning that if they are tied in the final, the faster climber will be ranked the highest. Among the male, Domen Skofic got the highest by touching the top jug. Once again, there was great live streaming with comments also from the route setter and interviews with many athletes including Domen and Janja. Complete results - Live streaming on Saturday at 19.30.