NEWS

Over 65 meter long 9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger
Adam Ondra is back in Flatanger, where he is working on a potential 9c. As a preperation he did the FA of Valhalla. (c) Tendon/O. Simko - Odins Eye extension, all the way to the final rail of Thor's. Incredibly massive pitch of ultra tiring climbing, at least 65 meters. Possibly one of the harder 9a's, but not 9a+. Bolted by Joe Kinder

Chad Greedy reports on Instagram that Shawn Raboutou has done two 8C's in Rocklands; Monkey Wedding and Spray of Light. - He's on his way to becoming the champ ,, just has to do 'livingLarge' ,,, to become the king of the land. Shawn is a part of the possibly best climbing family in the world. His sister is Brooke, who did her first 8c being 11 years old and his father is Didier, one of the best rock and competition climbers during the 90s. His mother is Robyn Erbesfield, possibly the best female climber during the 90s, who later became one of the most successful trainers, and being 50+ she still does 8b.

Some 15 years ago I started saying that the grades in Ticino were exaggerated as I did not want to spread false info. Later I said the same thing about Rocklands Boulders. The reason for the grade inflation was that Boulders in these areas were steeper than most of the old school Fontainebleau ones. Today, with all the new boulder gyms and training boards it is in practice easier to be a good steep boulderer in comparison with what was 15 years ago. Based on the scorecard ascents in 2016, we can see that most of the previous personal downgrading suggestions have been confirmed. The guys who have been on the forefront giving us more correct grades are, among others: Adam Ondra, Dave Graham, Niccolo Ceria and James Webb.

Childcare in Kalymnos
Monster Cafe does baby sitting while you are climbing on Kalymnos. They charge Euro 7 per hour for the first child and Euro 5 for the sibling.

Onsight slaughter by Adam Ondra again and a 9a+ FA
Adam Ondra has visited six crags in Switzerland and Germany in the last two weeks and added 17 routes 8a and harder. The most impressive are two 8c+ onsights, Barracuda in Kaitersberg and Gimmel Express in Grimmelwald. "8c in the guidebook, but it felt like dfferent level compared all the other 8c's in the last weeks... And Jonathan seems to go for 8c+ too. Amazing fight in a really desperate warm conditions." In total, the 23-year-old has now onsighted 17 routes 8c+ and three 9a's, excluding some personal grades. The runner-up in the onsight ranking is Alex Megos with one 9a and then there are some guys who have onsighted a couple 8c+'s. Furthermore, Adam did the FAs of Hyper finale 9a+ and Super finale 9a in Rawyl. Apart from that, he conquered Black Label 9a in Frankenjura in 25 minutes.

8c FA by Jonathan Hรถrst (13)
Jonathan Hรถrst, who did his first 8b+ when he was 10 years old, has done an 8b+ and the FA of Valkyrie 8c in Ten Sleep. "New route on our Frankenjura Wave Wall. Hardest route I've ever climbed. Power climbing on really small holds." Jonathan's father is Eric Hรถrst, one of the most famous climbing coaches, who has published many training books. As you can see in the picture, the focus is building a wide pyramid rather than just go for the the hardest grades.

Drew Ruana (16) sends Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a and more
Drew Ruana has started his Euro trip amazingly good by sending Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a on his fifth try including two tries last year. (c) Kyle O'meara The 16 year old has previously done one 9a, the FA of The Assassin in Smith Rocks which was harder for him. Further more Drew has done Chronique 8c and Le parte du Diable 8c+ in just three goes during the first four days in Cรฉรผse.

Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov
Vadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!" During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game. In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

First 9a for Andy Winterleitner
Andy Winterleitner has done his first 9a, Jungfraumarathon in Gimmelwald, after two years of projecting. "We went to Gimmelwald after a storm with heavy rain. It was quiet and special weather and I felt really calm. On my first try today I climbed perfect the first section, did well the hard boulder in the middle and the head was ready to fight for the last part which burns your body out with every move. This Go was perfect and I couldnโ€™t find some words after clipping the anchor. No shouting of joy and reaction. Just sitting on the floor and crying for a moment. Overwhelmed to have finished a long business. Some months of only training indoors the last winter, doing a lot of bouldering and campusboards sessions were important for my success. For doing this the mental part was really important and sometimes I have struggled to hang just on plastic holds."