NEWS

Two new shady sectors in Kalymnos
Climb Kalymnos reports that two new shady sectors have been opened near Arginonta with a total of some 40 routes. "Both new sectors were developed as part of the 2015/16 EU-funded maintenance and equipping project. The new cliffs fill a need on Kalymnos for more mid-grade climbs and more shade. With the vast majority of grades between 5c to 7a and shade from 10:00-16:00 at Black Buddha or from noon until the end of the day at Arginonta Valley, both new sectors are expected to become increasingly popular."

8B by Megan Mascarenas (18)
Megan Mascarenas, who won the last Boulder World Cup and has never done worse than #4 during her last five events, has done her second 8B of the last two weeks, Te Cuelgas Guey in Elevenmile Canyon. "One of the coolest things i have ever seen! all the moves are unique and all together they are so hard! Im glad for the day flash because there are too many moves to fall off! So psyched."

Sport climbing included in Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
IFSC President Marco Scolaris was present at the IOC Session in Rio de Janeiro. 'We are so happy that Sport Climbing will be participating in the Games of Tokyo. We have reached the final hold of our unbelievable climb, but another climb awaits us. Our team is committed to preparing Sport Climbing for the Olympic Games, and over the next four years we will continue to work with the IOC to do so.' In total 20 male and 20 female will compete for the combined gold. How these athletes will be selected will be decided in 2017. It should be noted that several top athletes like Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra have been very critical towards the suggested combined format.

Chimanimani in Zimbabwe better and richer than Rocklands
Paul Robinson, who has done 87 Boulders 8B+ and harder including 19 FAs, is back from Chimanimani and the big news is that it is better and richer in stones than Rocklands. Unfortunately (or luckily) it is located some five hours south east of Harare, meaning it will probably only be a destination for exploring globetrotters like Paul and Jimmy Webb. Why have you decided to travel the world looking for new climbing destinations? I spent much of my early 20's traveling all over the world repeating many of the hardest blocs that had been established before me. It was an amazing experience but I wanted the feeling of establishing some of those lines myself. I started doing first ascents in established areas but soon started hearing about other far off destinations that I had to go see for myself. Finding an area with untouched rock is the best feeling in the world to me. I can't imagine anything better. I am addicted and finding places like Chimanimani in Zimbabwe just makes me want to keep searching further and further because I know there is so much more. Tell us more about Chimanimani in Zimbabwe. I first went to check out this area in 2015. I only went for a few days but was blown away by the potential that the area had to offer. I knew it would be a perfect section for the film. I invited a bunch of people to join me on the trip, but jimmy was the only one who had faith in me and joined me to check out this far off bouldering area. Chimanimani has the same or more potential than rocklands and on better rock. We spent two weeks up there climbing and filming our hearts out. I think people are going to be pretty surprised when they see some of the footage we come back with!

Giorgio Bendazzoli, who has done one 9a previously, has added his first Boulders after an intensive and rainy week in Magic Wood. In total, the 17-year-old did ten Boulders graded 8A to 8B including an 8A flash and Riverbed 8B. - The weather was a bit rainy but with good temperatures, we managed to climb always except one day..I am happy to have realised many boulders also in few tries even if Magic Wood was my first "real" time on rock...my best result was definitely river bad which came at the end of the day in very few tries...I'm looking forward to go back to magic as soon as possible! In the last European Youth Cup, the Italian was #3 and in last two years he has actually won one event. In the Combined 8a ranking game, Giorgio is #6 among the juniors.

Alex Megos making Canadian history
Sonnie Trotter comments on Instagram that Alex Megos has had an amazing day in Canada doing two 9a's and one 8c+, "unquestionably the most OUTRAGEOUS day of sport climbing in Canadian history. Bunda de Fora 5.14d (3rd try) Kinder Surprise 5.14c (2nd try) and open project now called Full Nelson 5.14d (3rd try)."

8C in Rocklands by Toshi Takeuchi
Toshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C of the last 12 months, Spray of Light in Rocklands, and he goes to #3 position in the 8a ranking game. "YESSS!! Total 4 days. Mental battle was over because of bad weather. I have still 7 days more. On to the next!!"

8A in Rocklands gets 7B with kneepad by Jorg Verhoeven
"First time ever using a kneepad!! What do you think? Cheat or part of climbing accessories? It makes this cool boulder (gliding through waves like dolphins) more 7B instead of 8A. I don't even know whether kneepads are allowed in competition!? My opinion seems split on the topic..." (c) Jon Glassberg Why should not kneepads be OK? The 8a opinion is very clear. OF COURSE A KNEEPAD IS OK! Actually, it would be funny to hear some arguments on why it should not be OK :)

Portable hangboard from Awesome Woodys part of the 9a FA success for O'Halloran
Tom O'Halloran reveals how his Awesome Woodys portable hangboard has helped him to do a 9a FA in Blue Mountains. Tom says, "my work takes me all around Australia for weeks at a time. It can be lonely being far away from everything. But there is a bit of the familiar here with me, my Awesome Woodys Cliff Board Mini. I never leave home without it now. Itโ€™s there in my bag as a little reminder of home, of who I am, of what I do and, most importantly, what I want to do." "The Cliff Board allows me to connect with something I love. When I get back from a hard day of work, it can be tricky to find the motivation to train. But my Cliff Board sits there in the corner of my room, staring blankly back at me. โ€˜Come on Tom youโ€™re a rock climber, not a lazy bones do nothinger, remember. Pick me up, grab the sling and set me up on the rafters outside.โ€™" Video โ€œWhen Iโ€™m at the cliff I canโ€™t warm up properly without my Awesome Woodys Cliff Board. When I get to the cliff Iโ€™ll find a low first bolt or wrap a sling around a branch to clip my Cliff Board to. I start off with a few dead hangs on the jugs for a few seconds, then a few pull-ups. Once I feel like I have enough blood flowing through my arms Iโ€™ll start to slowly get recruited in my fingers. Iโ€™ll hang off the big edge for a second, rest for a few seconds and hang again. Iโ€™ll repeat this 5-6 times. Iโ€™ll then hang off the same edge for a few seconds longer than the first round, resting for about as long as I was hanging, repeating it 5-6 times. Iโ€™ll continue this until Iโ€™m hanging for 10 seconds at a time. After this, Iโ€™ll do a bunch of pull-ups on the same edge I have used already. Iโ€™m usually feeling pretty good and limber after this. If I need a little more Iโ€™ll move to a smaller edge or start doing some one arm hangs.โ€ โ€œBefore a redpoint attempt Iโ€™ll do a few hangs and pull-ups on the smaller edges to wake up my fingers and arms. Pre redpoint warm ups are very undervalued. You are doing yourself a disservice by not getting yourself fully ready before pulling on. It would be like not putting your shoes and chalk bag on!โ€