NEWS

Have you ever heard about an Olympic sport where both the semifinal and the final take more than 2.5 hours each, with no break? Here are some suggestions to speed up the competitions, which is needed, at least until Tokyo 2020. 1. Don't untie. Pull down the rope instead. 2. Skip the 40 seconds extra viewing. 3. Use time in the final as a tie breaker. 4. Maximum time at a 15-meter-high wall: 6 minutes. 5. Inform the climbers and spectators about the time.

Edu Marin does WoGรผ 8c (+) MP
Edu Marin, one of the very best allround climbers, comes with the great news on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's WoGรผ 8c, 7c+, 8b+/c, 8b, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+, multi-pitch in Rรคtikon. Edu has previously said that he thinks the first pitch is 8c+. - Yesterday I achieved the first repetition of "WOGรœ" the Monster of the Alps!!! Eight years have passed since its first free ascent by Adam Ondra in July 2008. A nice and hard process in which I've been submerged for nearly two months. The conditions in August were not the best: rain, moisture, heat, etc ... Perseverance, constancy, humility and motivation are some of the keys to unlocking this amazing line opened by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 in honor of Wolfgang Gรผllich. Without you father this would not have been possible. Thank you for your patience and for calming the beast. Thanks Marc for your positive energy!! This is also yours!! Dream Team!!!

20 August 2016

Imst final

The 8a scorecard was launched in 2000 and today, the ascent #4 million has been added. In total, 62 500 members have added ascents on 3 935 crags and 1 686 boulder areas, which will help you to find the best climbs in the world. You can find the best and most popular climbs in our Tick List.

9a by Daniel Fuertes in Rodellar
Daniel Fuertes is in his best shape ever having done his fourth 9a this year, Siempre Libre in Rodellar. In the 8a ranking game, the 35-year-old is #7. (c) Iris Matamoros - I tried the route about one month, twenty five tries more or less. The route was bolted by Dani Andrada and Luis Penin, few years ago. Dani did it in June, and now it would be the first repetition. It's a cool route!!! Very hard and technical. I liked to did it!!

The Path 8b+R trad by Alex Megos
Ken Etzel reports with a great picture on Instagram that Alex Megos has done a great debut of hard trad climbing by flashing Sonnie Trotter's the Path 8b+R in Lake Louise. R stands for it being run out with risk of injury. Actually, it was a 20 year old project, where Sonnie chopped the bolts before making the FA. - At the base of the climb, we had to teach him how to place a cam. With Sonnie belaying and relaying beta, Alex embarked on the most inspiring piece of rock climbing I've ever seen. Over the next 40 minutes he calmly ticked his way through each of the bouldery cruxes, at times being 20-30ft run out over C3's, which hopefully were placed correctly. Pulling v10 over a suspect 000 absolutely blows my mind. Alex is not just a sport climber or a boulderer, he's a world class ROCK CLIMBER who will change the face of our sport.

8b and 8a+ onsight by Jan Vopat (13)
Jan Vopat, 13, has onsighted an 8a+ and Le plaisir qui dรฉmonte 8b in Gorges du Tarn. By looking at Czech's scorecard, including 52 7c onsights, we can see that his focus is onsight climbing and that his personal redpoint best is also 8b. 8a believes that focusing on onsight is great for all kids as creating a wide grade pyramid is the best start for all youngsters and it is actually how Adam Ondra started. 8a try to stay away for promoting redpointing kids hunted by their parents.

Two 8c+'s by Jakob Kronberger (15)
Jakob Kronberger, who did his first 9a more than a year ago, has done two 8c+'s in Arco, Bucking Bronco and Warbeast, suggesting 8c for the latter as it went down quickly.

8A flash by Megan Mascarenas (18)
Megan Mascarenas has flashed her fifth 8A, Eternia in RMPNP. Interestingly, this high class Boulder was reported as an 8B a couple of times some 15 years ago. "Such a fluid climb! And toe hooks at the end? Yes please!" The 18-year-old has participated in five Boulder World Cups since 2015 and her worst result is #4. In the 8a ranking game she is #3.

9a in Cรฉรผse by Stefano Carnati (18)
Stefano Carnati, who was #19 in the Lead World Cup in Villars, has done his fourth 9a of the last year, Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Cรฉรผse. "Three weekends. Three hard sections with good rests in between." Including also his 9a+, Goldrake and having won the Youth World Champion twice, it is easy to say that he is a contender to be the most promising teenager out there. (c) Eddie Fowke