NEWS

Adam Ondra to compete in Arco
The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Arco this Friday and Saturday and the interesting news is that Adam Ondra will participate. The live streaming starts at 12.00 on Saturday with the semi followed by the final at 20.00. Only two established Lead WC climbers, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg will also compete in Speed. The qualification begins at 9.30 on Saturday and then the participants have to go into the semi isolation at 11.00. On Sunday, the 30th edition of the Rockmaster will take place with KO boulder and Duel where ten qualified athletes will climb neck-to-neck and the fastest climber goes to the next round. In Bouldering, seven invited climbers including Adam Ondra will first train and then redpoint four Boulders and the lowest-ranked of them will be eliminated after each Boulder. In total, Adam Ondra could win 9 000 Euro if he wins all the three events.

Jan Kareลก, 42, sets new 6 h pull-up record = 3 569
jan kares, who was #17 in a Lead World Cup in 1998, has set a new Guiness World Record by doing 3 569 pull ups in six hours. The 42-year-old, weighing some 80 kilos, has since 2008 spent some 150 days bolting in Sardinia, paying everything by himself, and that is what he does all his vacations. - I love climbing this is only because some people invite me to events:-)) The record was a part of an event streamed live and Jan started with 500 sets of 5 pull-ups, followed by 300 sets of 4 pull-ups. He has been training and going for world records for the last seven years and he is also the current, one set, record holder with 232 pull-ups.

Here is a draft list of the best sport climbers in the world based on their all-round top performance in all disciplines, from bouldering to multi-pitch, including also competitions. Surely, several names are missing so please suggest names. UPDATE: Many names have been forwarded but all of them do not have any good senior WC results. 1. Adam Ondra 2. Lynn Hill 3. Yuji Hirayama 4. Catherine Destivelle 5. Jorg Verhoeven 6. David Lama 7. Chris Sharma 8. Nina Caprez 9. Edu Marin 10. Klemen Becan, Caroline Ciavaldini, Kilian Fischhuber, Dani Andrada, Cedric Lachat

Five Ten dominates Boulder WC 2016
Five Ten has published a nice wrap-up of the Boulder WC 2016, where they proudly say that it was dominated by Five Ten Athletes. In fact, among the male both #1 and #2, Narasaki and Fuji, as well as #1 and #3 among women, Coxsey and Le Neve, all wear Five Ten shoes. In the wrap-up, there is also a conversation with Melissa Le Neve where she explained her success by getting new motivation to train very hard, having fun as well as sacrificing outdoors climbing, which she will pick up again later this year.

Skofic & Rรถck win in Imst
Domen Skofic took his third victory in 2016 and levels up with his girlfriend Janja Garnbret, who was fifth after three straight victories, saying that she was so stressed about timing out. Anak Verhoeven was timed out even though she had a watch on her wrist and in fact, none of the female would have been able to reach the top within eight minutes. The wall in Imst is 21 meter high and rather vertical in the lower parts making it hard to climb fast. More great pics from (c) Eddie Fowke. 1. Domen Skofic SLO 53+ : Magdalena Rรถck AUT 56+ 2. Jakob Schubert AUT 53+ : Mina Markovic SLO 56 3. Gauthier Supper FRA 50 : Jain Kim KOR 56 Complete results Interestingly, all 16 finalist but one made it to hold 39 and in the end just the final itself took more than 2.5 hours.

1. Domen Skofic 325 - Janja Garnbret 351 2. Jakob Schubert 232 - Magdalenda Rรถck 271 3. Sean McColl 208 - Anak Verhoeven 255 4. Stefano Ghisolfi 201 - Jain Kim 250 5. Gauthier Supper 200 - Jessica Pilz 157 The fifth stage will take place in Arco this weekend.

Have you ever heard about an Olympic sport where both the semifinal and the final take more than 2.5 hours each, with no break? Here are some suggestions to speed up the competitions, which is needed, at least until Tokyo 2020. 1. Don't untie. Pull down the rope instead. 2. Skip the 40 seconds extra viewing. 3. Use time in the final as a tie breaker. 4. Maximum time at a 15-meter-high wall: 6 minutes. 5. Inform the climbers and spectators about the time.

Edu Marin does WoGรผ 8c (+) MP
Edu Marin, one of the very best allround climbers, comes with the great news on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's WoGรผ 8c, 7c+, 8b+/c, 8b, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+, multi-pitch in Rรคtikon. Edu has previously said that he thinks the first pitch is 8c+. - Yesterday I achieved the first repetition of "WOGรœ" the Monster of the Alps!!! Eight years have passed since its first free ascent by Adam Ondra in July 2008. A nice and hard process in which I've been submerged for nearly two months. The conditions in August were not the best: rain, moisture, heat, etc ... Perseverance, constancy, humility and motivation are some of the keys to unlocking this amazing line opened by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 in honor of Wolfgang Gรผllich. Without you father this would not have been possible. Thank you for your patience and for calming the beast. Thanks Marc for your positive energy!! This is also yours!! Dream Team!!!

20 August 2016

Imst final