NEWS

Here is a draft list of the best sport climbers in the world based on their all-round top performance in all disciplines, from bouldering to multi-pitch, including also competitions. Surely, several names are missing so please suggest names. UPDATE: Many names have been forwarded but all of them do not have any good senior WC results. 1. Adam Ondra 2. Lynn Hill 3. Yuji Hirayama 4. Catherine Destivelle 5. Jorg Verhoeven 6. David Lama 7. Chris Sharma 8. Nina Caprez 9. Edu Marin 10. Klemen Becan, Caroline Ciavaldini, Kilian Fischhuber, Dani Andrada, Cedric Lachat

Five Ten dominates Boulder WC 2016
Five Ten has published a nice wrap-up of the Boulder WC 2016, where they proudly say that it was dominated by Five Ten Athletes. In fact, among the male both #1 and #2, Narasaki and Fuji, as well as #1 and #3 among women, Coxsey and Le Neve, all wear Five Ten shoes. In the wrap-up, there is also a conversation with Melissa Le Neve where she explained her success by getting new motivation to train very hard, having fun as well as sacrificing outdoors climbing, which she will pick up again later this year.

Skofic & Rรถck win in Imst
Domen Skofic took his third victory in 2016 and levels up with his girlfriend Janja Garnbret, who was fifth after three straight victories, saying that she was so stressed about timing out. Anak Verhoeven was timed out even though she had a watch on her wrist and in fact, none of the female would have been able to reach the top within eight minutes. The wall in Imst is 21 meter high and rather vertical in the lower parts making it hard to climb fast. More great pics from (c) Eddie Fowke. 1. Domen Skofic SLO 53+ : Magdalena Rรถck AUT 56+ 2. Jakob Schubert AUT 53+ : Mina Markovic SLO 56 3. Gauthier Supper FRA 50 : Jain Kim KOR 56 Complete results Interestingly, all 16 finalist but one made it to hold 39 and in the end just the final itself took more than 2.5 hours.

1. Domen Skofic 325 - Janja Garnbret 351 2. Jakob Schubert 232 - Magdalenda Rรถck 271 3. Sean McColl 208 - Anak Verhoeven 255 4. Stefano Ghisolfi 201 - Jain Kim 250 5. Gauthier Supper 200 - Jessica Pilz 157 The fifth stage will take place in Arco this weekend.

Have you ever heard about an Olympic sport where both the semifinal and the final take more than 2.5 hours each, with no break? Here are some suggestions to speed up the competitions, which is needed, at least until Tokyo 2020. 1. Don't untie. Pull down the rope instead. 2. Skip the 40 seconds extra viewing. 3. Use time in the final as a tie breaker. 4. Maximum time at a 15-meter-high wall: 6 minutes. 5. Inform the climbers and spectators about the time.

Edu Marin does WoGรผ 8c (+) MP
Edu Marin, one of the very best allround climbers, comes with the great news on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's WoGรผ 8c, 7c+, 8b+/c, 8b, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+, multi-pitch in Rรคtikon. Edu has previously said that he thinks the first pitch is 8c+. - Yesterday I achieved the first repetition of "WOGรœ" the Monster of the Alps!!! Eight years have passed since its first free ascent by Adam Ondra in July 2008. A nice and hard process in which I've been submerged for nearly two months. The conditions in August were not the best: rain, moisture, heat, etc ... Perseverance, constancy, humility and motivation are some of the keys to unlocking this amazing line opened by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 in honor of Wolfgang Gรผllich. Without you father this would not have been possible. Thank you for your patience and for calming the beast. Thanks Marc for your positive energy!! This is also yours!! Dream Team!!!

20 August 2016

Imst final

The 8a scorecard was launched in 2000 and today, the ascent #4 million has been added. In total, 62 500 members have added ascents on 3 935 crags and 1 686 boulder areas, which will help you to find the best climbs in the world. You can find the best and most popular climbs in our Tick List.

9a by Daniel Fuertes in Rodellar
Daniel Fuertes is in his best shape ever having done his fourth 9a this year, Siempre Libre in Rodellar. In the 8a ranking game, the 35-year-old is #7. (c) Iris Matamoros - I tried the route about one month, twenty five tries more or less. The route was bolted by Dani Andrada and Luis Penin, few years ago. Dani did it in June, and now it would be the first repetition. It's a cool route!!! Very hard and technical. I liked to did it!!

The Path 8b+R trad by Alex Megos
Ken Etzel reports with a great picture on Instagram that Alex Megos has done a great debut of hard trad climbing by flashing Sonnie Trotter's the Path 8b+R in Lake Louise. R stands for it being run out with risk of injury. Actually, it was a 20 year old project, where Sonnie chopped the bolts before making the FA. - At the base of the climb, we had to teach him how to place a cam. With Sonnie belaying and relaying beta, Alex embarked on the most inspiring piece of rock climbing I've ever seen. Over the next 40 minutes he calmly ticked his way through each of the bouldery cruxes, at times being 20-30ft run out over C3's, which hopefully were placed correctly. Pulling v10 over a suspect 000 absolutely blows my mind. Alex is not just a sport climber or a boulderer, he's a world class ROCK CLIMBER who will change the face of our sport.