NEWS

IFSC interviews with Ondra, McColl, Durif and more
IFSC is ready for the Paris World Championship that starts on Wednesday. Interviews with McColl, Durif and more have been published on the FB page. Here we present Ondra's answers, who became the World Champion in both Lead and Boulder in 2014. Picture showing the winning moment. 1. What are you most looking forward to about the upcoming IFSC World Championships? I am most looking forward to the atmosphere in Paris. Comps should be done for the audience, and it's always the best feeling to climb in front of many spectators and know they are psyched. 2. How have you prepared for this event? Are you ready?! I have been climbing mostly outdoors this year, but in the last three weeks I made my training more plastic-oriented, so hopefully I will be ready in Paris to give a good fight! 3. Which Athletes do you think will be your biggest competition? Tomoa Narasaki in Bouldering; Domen Skofic, Romain Desgranges, Gautier Supper, Ramon Julian Puigblanque and Jakob Schubert in Lead. 4. What would be a successful week for you? Giving it all I have without making mistakes. 5. Why should people attend the IFSC World Championships in Paris? It is the best possible show of our sport! Best Athletes, best walls and routes, in the best location possible.

11 September 2016

Create Left > Right Topos

Well over 1 500 Left > Right Topos have been created and are available to download in our 8A app. This will help you to find and climb the best routes at a crag. Here you can try it out. Normally it just takes 10 minutes to sort the names from the tick list from left to right and you'd help the whole community if you decided to do it for the crags you know. Thanks in advance :)

9a+ and 9a FAs by Ramonet
11 September 2016

9a+ and 9a FAs by Ramonet

Ramon Julian has spent the last weekend before the World Championship on doing the FA of Las tres dures 9a in Sadernes and Maya 9a+ in Margalef. The latter, bolted by Vicent Palau, hangs over 45 degrees for almost 40 metres with mainly small pockets and small edges. Ramonet got his first out of three Euro Champion titles in 2004 and the last in 2015. In the meantime, he won the World Championship 2007 and 2011 and he has said he was going for it again. The first time the Spaniard did a 9a was in 2002, and in 2003 he did La Rambla. It is a fact that for the last 15 years he has been the #1 sport climber in the world. (M. Alba)

Wall Rider: a good reason to start using a helmet
Some years ago, nobody wore a helmet on ski slopes but now people start using them and child cycling is going in the same direction. As loose rock is one of the biggest risks for rock climbers, it is strange that helmets have not gained popularity, at least for kids. Probably, this has something to do with the previous climbing helmets, which were heavy with no ventilation and goofy looks. Mammut's Wall Rider changes that and will probably have some good impact on climbers. It is made of expanded polypropylene foam, which gives better protection even if it is lighter in comparison to other foams. It is also equipped with numerous generous ventilation openings. Kind of a modern look as well. What do you think?

Marcin Dzieล„ski - the fastest climber in the world
Marcin Dzieล„ski, 166 cm tall and weighing 65 kg, has won the last three Speed World Cups, often sharing the podium with 190 cm guys. Check him running up the 15 meter wall in less than six seconds. Please explain how much and how you have trained to be #1 in the world. Oh, no! You want to know my top secret and make it public ;) It depends on the time of the year. In winter I have training almost every day, then in season โ€œonlyโ€ four days in week... but as a pro, I am working on my shape 24/7/365 โ€“ it means that recovery, diet, mental training are an integral and permanent part of my training regime. Even if I want to socialize with friends โ€“ it goes aside from the plan ;) In season, main training sessions take around 3-4 hours per day, then one day rest. My training is mostly running on the wall and some special exercise for strength and power. Almost the same like for other kind of climbing (eg. campus, pull-up bar etc.). Of course I canโ€™t forget about legs, which are trained on the gym or track for plyometric routine. What is your level in Lead and Bouldering now? Do you plan to go all in for the Combined format? Honestly, I donโ€™t have enough time for training lead and bouldering, because am still studying full time physical education at the university. Fortunately, itโ€™s my last year and will have more spare time. I used to start in all kind of climbing comps when I was youth - and even taken silver in junior category on boulder National Champ. Few times in year I go bouldering for fun and able to repead some 7B/C quite quickly... Do you like the Combined Olympic format or could it be improved? They should do 3 disciplines in Tokyo 2020 as in the world championship. Combined will destroy our work so far. But you have to know that we have to be happy that we are in.

There are 536 athletes registered in the three categories in the World Championship in Paris which is some 20% more compared to 2012. Here is the breakdown for each discipline: Lead: 111 male & 80 female Boulder: 131 male & 98 female Speed: 69 male & 47 female Looking at the combined part, you can see that it is also some 20% more but actually less top climbers in comparison to 2012. Combined: 25 male & 15 female Single discipline: 175 male and 135 female Two disciplines: 32 male and 21 female

Kalymnos Climbing Festival: 7 - 9 October
The little climbing jewel in the midst of the Aegean Sea, Kalymnos, which now features nearly 3 000 bolted sport routes of all levels, welcomes Climbers from all over the world to its international Climbing Festival taking place on October 7th-9th, 2016. In the wake of several successful festivals in previous years, this yearโ€™s event is organised by the local municipality with special guests likeAngy Eiter, Roger Schaeli and Urko Carmona Barandiaran. (c) Nikolaos Smalios The festival will include: Stories and adventures presented by the special guests Climbing with the Pros Open Marathon and โ€œMarasiโ€ Competition for kids Slack line, Rope challenge, Deep Water Solo, DJ party, Live Greek traditional dancing and Video and a photo contest. More info at Fesitival Webpage and Facebook Festival Page.