NEWS

Elena Krasovskaia (16) in the Boulder final and about to win in Combined
Elena Krasovskaia (16), who was #14 in the European Youth Bouldering Championship last month, was the big sensation making it into the Final with five big favorites. As she is #20 in Speed at 9.83, she is in the leading position to win the Combined. (c) Eddie Fowke 17:30-19:00 Bouldering Final Men 19:30 Awarding Ceremony 20:15-21:00 Speed Final Men 21:00-22:00 Lead Final Women 22:00 Awarding Ceremony

Janja Garnbret (17) wins in the extraordinary show
Janja Garnbret grabs the second last hold, slips of for a split second, takes it again and continues to the final hold. Once again a World Championship in Paris proved to be an amazing show. Anak Verhoeven actually topped earlier with a margin but as she had worse result in the semi, Janja is the winner, which was based on countback. In the junior events, Janja has been superior for many years. When she started to compete win the seniors in some WCs last year she was was mainly runner up. This year she started by winning the three first World Cups but in the two last events she was #3 and #5 before she got the biggest title in Paris.

Sean McColl has made it into the semifinal in both Lead and Bouldering and, as he was #37 in Speed at 8.65, he has secured the Combined title. The fastest Combined competitor was Manuel Cornu from France #31 at 7.85. Among the Combined female competitors, Elena Krasovskaia (15) was fastest with 9.83 and she together with Charlotte Durif and Andrea Ebner are in the best position. The winner will not be known until the semifinals in Lead and Bouldering.

16 September 2016

Big scandal on Day 2

A 15-year-old girl from Argentina was #15 in the Bouldering qualification. Later it turned out that she is too young as she will not turn 16 in 2016. For some reason, her application to compete in Paris has been approved by IFSC although she was born in 2001. The sad news is that she will not be allowed to compete in the semifinal tonight but a suggestion has been forward that she can be a pre-runner.

Sensational results in Male Bouldering
Extremely technical problems in the male semifinal with very few top outs. The World Cup winner qualified by doing just one problem. But once again, the commentary misled the audience by saying that Tomoa had to top the last problem to make it into the Final. Once the Japanese had gotten the bonus in the right number of attempts, they continued to say a bonus was actually enough but we did not know how many he used. Tomoa needed three attempts and he would have made it to the final if he had used five! Please IFSC, it has been like this for the whole season and now we have commentary misleading the audience in World Championships in a sport going for the Olympics! It is noteworthy that only one of the Top-6 in the qualification made it to the Final and this guy was #6. Complete results.

All big names safely through
The third day in Paris starts with the Speed qualification including the participants going for the Combined. Kuba Glowka has helped us out to calculate the results, based on the ranking in each discipline, prior to the Speed. 1. McColl Sean CAN - 3,5 : Ebner Andrea ITA - 6 2. Firnenburg David GER - 8: Durif Charlotte FRA - 7 3. Cornu Manuel FRA - 9,5 : Elena Krasovskala RUS - 11 4. Barrans David GBR - 11 : Kazbekova Ievgeniia UKR - 11 5. Cho Seungwoon KOR - 15 : Miller Delaney USA - 12 The Live Streaming of the male Bouldering and female Lead semifinals starts at 19.30.

Six female topped both routes
All the big female names topped both routes in the qualifications; Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Jessica Pilz, Mina Markovic, Anak Verhoeven and Magdalena Rรถck. If they have identical results in both semi and final, the ranking is established basing on who climbs fastest in the final. (c) Eddie Fowke