Stefano Ghisolfi, currently #4 in the Lead World Cup, has done Jungle Boogie 9a+ in Céüse after ten days of projecting. In the 8a ranking game, the Italian is #3. (c) Paolo Sartori "3rd ascent after Adam and Sachi, hard 9a+, much harder than Biographie, but totally different style. I tried it for 10 days and after the second I could do all the moves. But there is a really hard crux crossing to a 2 finger pocket and I fell there a lot of time. Once I passed that move I went to the top. The route is about 20/25 moves with no rest, and then a 15 meters slab. Beside Jungle Boogie, there are three more 9a+s in Céüse; Three Degrees of Separation, Realization and L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs.

Eddie Fowke has made a great interview with David Firnenburg, #3 in Combined in Paris and #6 in the Combined 8a ranking game - Between lecture room, competition and rock. The usual way of his older climbing colleagues in Germany is to abandon their sport career sooner or later and to give priority to their vocational training. “This reasonable decision indeed affects our sport adversely, because like this a sustainable international competitiveness is not to be expected. Realistically I see my chances to participate in the Olympic Games in 2020 more as an outsider. But if I can maintain my joy of climbing and continue also to rely on my capabilities, it doesn’t seem impossible to me to have a chance of taking part at Tokyo”, David ends.

Baptiste Ometz, who has done eight 8B+s so far, has done Practice of the Wild giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Amazing line! 4 days. My style with the jump at the end, simply didn't fell like 8c being already too close on the first day.. psyched for more in magic." It should be noted that six out of seven climbers who recorded it as 8C, called it soft and also Gabri Moroni, who did the second last ascent, gave it 8B+. It is also noteworthy that earlier this year, the 17-year-old was #11 in the Boulder World Cup in Munich.

What if IFSC just put up 30 four meters wide campus rungs and let Speed Climbers run on them, four at a time? It would be much more fun to watch this as now the climbers are so far apart that you cannot keep an eye on both competitors at the same time. This would also make it more understandable for the spectators and less expensive for gyms. It would also be easier to certify a wall for world records. You could also run relays for nations like in this video.

12 shortcuts in order to push grades. Running can be conter-productive Technical endurance advice Dyno advice Redpoint tactics

Cosmin Andron has published a detailed article in regards to washing the rope and increasing its lifespan. Ii is interesting is that Tendon has actually developed a specific detergent. "Spring is here and it's the best time to check your climbing bag and do some cleaning. Rope is a textile product and it's possible to wash it in the washing machine or by hand. It not only removes all the dirt but it also prolongs the life span of the rope. The water temperature should be set between 30 - 40°C and instead of common washing powder a special rope cleaner should be used for safe washing without changes in rope parameters. The rope should be dried properly in a dark place protected from direct sunshine and away from heaters."

Geir Evensen has published this picture on Facebook in order to educate climbers NOT to top rope directly in the anchor.

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Climb Kalymnos, which just recently reported that Ryan Air will stop flying to Kos in 2017, comes with more bad news. Olympic Airlines will as of tomorrow stop flying from Athens to Kalymnos. It is said that Astra Airlines will take over but reduce to three flights a week until 2020. It seems that the best climbing destination will get even better soon as it will get less crowded but how to get there in the prime season as the charter companies mainly fly from mid May to September? Here are some low price airlines alternatives (as of 2016 but it does not fit Kos airport info): Easy Jet did fly to Kos from Milan, London and Glasgow this year; Vuelving from Rome; Air Berlin. Anyone who have some further tips how to get to Kalymnos in 2017?

In 2004, Dave MacLeod made tha FA of Rhapsody and with 8c and E11 iw was a contendor for the hardest trad route in the world. The fame was also based in the video which really showed his commitment and how dangerous it was. Dave actually said it could be potentially deadly. Later it was repeated by several people, everyone of whom said it was not dangerous if you instead used dynamic belay. The grades were also questioned as well as the fact that it was an elimination. Jacopo stays away from all this and just says that he is so impressed by Dave, who put it up.