NEWS

Chris Frick is peaking at 48
Chris Frick (48) started climbing in 1982. By doing Enfant de Bohรจme 8c at Basler Jura in 2015 and then Goldfinger 8c at Gimmelwald in August he reached a personal best. Some days ago he did his 300th route in the realm of the french eighth grade. - Progressing at 45+ is still possible. It's all about motivation and love for climbing. One can't neglect busy times with family, job, etc. But take care of yourself. Climbing means life quality. After a surgery (labrum fixation) four years ago I tried to redefine my climbing. Clear structure in days on and off helps as well as intelligent training including antagonist and stretching exercises. Most important was to get rid of so-called energy vampires in life, work and food. I found vegan nutrition works best for me. Weight control is now a piece of cake (-10 kg!). All this resulted in an energy blast that now holds on since two years. If you feel the fire inside, then go and live your dreams. Don't be stupid and say you're too old and get trapped in convenience and passiveness. To be still on is great. Enjoy life!

22 September 2016

Age & Gender Ranking

We have played with the rankings giving 150 points extra per year once you turn 36, 250 extra points for every year if you are younger than 19 and also 1 000 bonus points for female. 13 840 Adam Ondra 1993 - 11 900 Isabelle Faus 1993 13 832 Laura Rogora 2001 - 11 853 Alex Puccio 1989 13 193 Loic Zehani 2001 - 11 786 James Webb 1987 13 150 Ramรณn Puigblanque 1981 - 11 700 Ryuichi Murai 1994 13 050 Jakob Kronberger 2001 - 11 532 M Mascarenas 1997 13 045 Chuck Odette 1955 - 11 500 Toshi Takeuchi 1986 Further down in the list there are many names very high up in the ranking that have not been in the headlines yet, like: Franz Fackler (56), Ida Kups (17), Anna Enrich (54), Steve Crow (59), Amelia Marcusson (14) and Toma Strnad (41).

8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle
22 September 2016

8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle

Ethan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown. - This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor. On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

News.gtp.gr comes with the very sad news that Ryan Air will stop their flights to Kos next year. Already this year they cancelled several flights and it is said that there are about 20% less climbers on the island.

8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai
Ryuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!" During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch
Christof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4. "A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bรผgeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11
More info from the new crag with some 800 routes three hours from Athens.

IFSC has experienced some server problems but finally there are the Combined results. What is interesting to see is actually that just a couple of the best male and female participated and none of the best Speed climbers. As an example, Seungwon Cho was close to get the bronze after being 39 - 71 - 37. Regarding the Combined format suggested by IFSC in Paris, the latest news is that they have withdrawn this and they are considering alternative solutions like the one from 8a.

Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics
Last year, Tomoa Narasaki was #4 in the Youth World Championship and #30 overall in the World Cup. The Japanese started out 2016 with being #18 and #15 but then something kicked in. During the last six events, his worst result was #2. - I' am so happy about my result and my performance also. My two dreams "World Cup winner and World Champion" have come true this year. I am thankful for all the support. I think my successful result this year is due to changing attitude and environment. I tried to go outside climbing for improving my technical skill. I met a good body training coach last year. I often train how to use my body in the fitness gym. I watched video of Boulder World Cups for learn body position, then I make similar problems to my self. The 170 cm tall and 58 kg heavy guy started climbing when he was ten years old because of his brother. Previously he had been training apparatus gymnastics. Outdoors, he has done 8B+ and he says that he is going for the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 for sure. (c) Eddie Fowke

20 September 2016

Lead final highlights