Prune Martinoty has sent Stay kratom stay safe (8c) in Saint Léger. In 2023, she sent her first 8b+ and since, she has focused mainly on Stay… which she took down after some 35 sessions. (c) Clement Bustel

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started thinking about climbing 8c three years ago. When I first tried Stay (Stay Kratom Stay Safe), it felt impossible to send because the hard moves seemed extreme, and even the “easy” sections were hard for me. So I trained, and little by little the project started to feel possible. Last winter I was really close to sending, but I broke a pulley.

It felt like my dream was falling apart, so every day since then I’ve worked hard to get my level back. In the fall I returned to the route, but the rain interrupted attempts for the whole winter. I came back to the route about ten days ago, and every day I was falling higher. On Sunday I fell almost at the top, and I was so sad to fail.

On Tuesday, my first run was difficult because the rain had once again soaked the key hold for the first crux. I had decided to go home, but I didn’t want to come all the way to the crag for just one attempt, so I got myself ready again.

I fell twice in a row at the second quickdraw. I told my friends, “if I fall again, I’m done, I’m leaving.” And then I passed the section, even though the hold was completely wet, all the way to the good rest. And I knew that from there I could send, because I had already done it two days before. But to avoid pressure and not mess it up, I pretended that I hadn’t just done the bottom and that I was only trying for practice.

I felt good on every move, super focused. I took my time on every rest, even though they’re not great… When I reached the last rest, I felt the emotion rising because I knew it was done. Then came a few meters of very easy climbing, just to enjoy what you’ve achieved.

When I pulled the rope, it was crazy. The moment the rope started to clip into the carabiner, I exploded with joy. It was incredible to realize how far I had come. For some people, climbing 8c isn’t a big deal. But for me, I had just achieved my dream. It was extraordinary. Even this morning, I still can’t quite believe it.

What is next?
Now I want to do some easier route like 8a-8b for the rest of holiday and after go back for another 8c. Two in one season would be amazing.

Next dream it’s probably 9a but not sure it’s possible if you’re not professionnal climber and not ready to go through this process again. I need to enjoy my victory, and then I’ll get back to training for do other 8c and maybe harder routes.

Connor Herson repeated James Pearson’s Bon Voyage (9a) in Annot last year, keeping the ascent under wraps until the video release. With a tick list spanning several additional trad climbs from 8c to 9a+, the American has built probably the most impressive traditional climbing résumés in the world. Herson first drew attention in 2018 when, at just 14 years old, he climbed an 8c+ route on only his second attempt. That same year, he also repeated The Nose (8b+ MP) and finished 11th at the Youth World Championship.

Stefano Carnati and Pepa Šindel have sent Biologico (9a) in Arco. Adam Ondra did the first ascent in 2012 and in total it has been logged 16 times in the database.

Carnati: “Tried a few days some 8/10 years ago and 6 more tries this weekend. Didn’t pre-clip the third bolt. Placed a longer sling and clipped it from the jug, which still kept the jump safe. It doesn’t add much in terms of difficulty, but it does interrupt the flow into the first boulder. A better rebolting with the third bolt placed lower down should be considered.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Biologico was one of those projects I left unfinished about 8–10 years ago, sitting in a long list of “to do someday” climbs. So it felt really special to finally go back to it after so long. I’m currently recovering from a small tendon issue in my ring finger (nothing serious), but my last trip to Margalef was pretty tough on it, so I ended up just climbing easier stuff instead of really projecting.

What is next?
I’d love to get to Céüse as soon as possible. I don’t have any real plans for the summer yet. I finished my PhD last month, so I’m enjoying some free time while figuring out my next steps.

Leo Cea, with five 9a’s in under his belt, has spent the Easter holiday in Arco where he sent Underground (9a) and Pungitopo (8c+). Back home in Frankenjura the 13-year-old quickly climbed Kawaschuwu (8c+).

”During the Christmas holidays of 2025, I visited Arco for the first time — a place I had heard so much about, with a deep climbing history, and somewhere I had always wanted to experience. Now that I live in Germany, it’s relatively close, which makes projecting there a real possibility.

My first goal was to try Pure Dreaming (8c+/9a) in the Massone Pueblo sector. It’s a variation of the classic Reini’s Vibes, first ascended by Adam Ondra in 2018. I was also really inspired knowing that Andrea Chelleris sent it at just 12 years old. Even though I only spent four days there over Christmas, it went quite quickly: I sent it in 3 sessions and a total of 6 attempts. It became my last hard project of 2025.

But my projects in Arco didn’t end there. Together with my family and my coach, I chose Pure Dreaming also because it has an extension that adds the first section of Underground, turning it into a 9a+. That motivated me a lot, since one of my main goals for 2026 is to push my grade further. During that same Christmas trip, I started trying Underground. Although the wall isn’t completely natural — as it’s an old quarry — over time it has become a place full of history and incredible lines. Underground is a very special route. I read in an article from Desnivel that, according to Javi Cano, it was the first 9a in Italy, which made it even more motivating for me.

The route is an impressive roof: over 20 meters of steep, very physical climbing with three well-defined crux sections. The first one — the hardest — was the most challenging for me: powerful but also extremely precise. Finding my beta wasn’t easy, since the methods most adults use didn’t work well for me because of my height. Still, I was fascinated by the route from the very beginning.

I came back in February to keep working on it, but the conditions didn’t help at all. There was humidity, and several key holds in the crux were wet. Even so, the trip was very valuable: I was able to refine the moves, better understand the line, and go back home motivated to train specifically for the route — both in the gym and on rock in Frankenjura.

This Easter break felt like the perfect moment to return. The conditions were good, and I felt very well prepared — both for Underground and Pure Dreaming Plus. And it was incredible… right after getting out of the car and walking to the crag, I sent Underground on my second attempt of the day. Regarding the grade, while some suggest 8c+/9a, I personally agree more with the original 9a, as also proposed by climbers like Laura Rogora, whose height is closer to mine (144.5 cm tall, 150.5 cm wingspan). During that same trip, I also managed to send two classic routes in the sector that were in good condition: Super Maratona (8b+) on my second go, and X-Large (8c) on my third.

The next day I started trying Pure Dreaming Plus, and it went really well — I reached the upper crux twice. I felt that, with the days I had left, sending it could be possible, and I was really enjoying climbing this beautiful ~50-meter line. I took a rest day, and when I came back, an Italian climber told me that a key hold had broken at that crux, and that the route had become almost impossible.

I felt a bit frustrated, but after talking it through with my dad and my coach, I decided to change projects and try Pungitopo (8c+), an incredible natural slab in the Red Point Wall sector, first ascended by Adam Ondra in 2022. I was also really motivated knowing that climbers like Laura Rogora and Michaela Kirsch had sent it. I was excited to try something completely different: moving from a powerful, explosive roof to a technical slab on a fully natural line. That made it really fun.

So I dedicated the last days of the trip to Pungitopo. I had read that Ondra described it as one of the most beautiful lines in the area, and it truly is. The grey rock is amazing, very aesthetic, and the moves are extremely precise, requiring balance and full-body tension. A really beautiful route. With that, I completed what I had planned for Arco. It was a very fun and challenging process. Rock climbing is like that — you have to adapt to circumstances, like the weather or even the possibility of a key hold breaking on your main project. But that’s exactly what makes it more alive, more uncertain, and also more exciting. I’m very happy to be achieving what I set out to do together with my family and my coach: building consistency on routes between 8c and 9a across very different styles and rock types — endurance on classic lines (Era Vella), tufas (Trip Tik Tonik), steep pocket climbing (Víctimas Pérez), physical roofs (Underground), powerful finger-intensive routes (Wallstreet), and fully technical slabs (Pungitopo). All of this is helping me develop into a more complete sport climber. Now I’m really motivated to keep climbing in Frankenjura, and I’m also planning a trip to Spain this autumn.”

Solveig Korherr, with two 9a’s under her belt, has onsighted Panem et Circensis (8b) in Arco. It was the last route she tried on her eleven days trip. The picture by Emile Pino is from Terra Piatta (8b+).

Can you tell us more about your onsight experience?
It was a very spontaneous decision to jump on this route. It was my last climbing day of the trip and when I already sent the route I came for (I Riflessi del Rosso (1st pitch) (8b+)), I just wanted to squeeze in a few more pitches before heading home. When I saw that the quickdraws were already hanging on the 8b, I decided to check it out without any expectations.

I quickly got into a great flow. The climbing felt quite straight forward following the crimp line. As I moved upward, I started to realize: wow, this might actually go. I focused on staying calm and kept it together all the way to the top. Those are some of my favorite sends. The ones where I surprise myself and go in with no expectations.

Martin Švec, husband to Jana Svecova, who just did her second 8C FA, has completed Drift (8C) in Moravský kras. ”Such a mental battle, fell 15times from the top slab… finaly broke through The plateau and years of injuries.”

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent including the injury problems?
This might sound as a proper grind but it was actually a great multiyear experience for me with much bigger perspective than just sending 8C I started trying Drift late summer 2023. I got close during the winter, but then I ruptured my A2 pulley, along with some serious joint inflammation from a two-finger pocket undercut (but the FA that came out of it is one of the best Czech V12, “comp style SD”) . It took forever to recover. December 2024, I got to the last hard move… and then tore another A2 in January 2025. 2025 was probably the worst climbing year for both me and Jane. I had just one session on Drift that year. We were both out of the game for almost 6 months.

By the end of summer, I felt like I could climb a bit again, and for the first time I started working with a climbing coach. All the injuries I had basically came from overtraining, lack of rest, and not enough variety in my training. I got into the best shape of my life in like 4months. By the end of December, I was already stronger than ever. Inbetween trying other hard boulders I kept going through the training cycles, and by mid-March I got back on Drift. On my third session, I fell in the final 7B+ slab. And I thought, “Yeah, it’s easy, I’ll just cruise it next session.” And I already started thinking what is going to be the next project. But climbing never was about being just physically strong enough. It turned into a crazy mental battle 😁 I underestimated the mantle, and it gave me a proper lesson 😁

In the end it took me 9 sessions this year (close to 40 in total) and about 15 falls from the final mantle 🙏 I’m actually glad it went this way — it means much more to me now than if I had sent it in the 3rd or 4th session

The mayor of Kalymnos has announced that ten crags are temporarily closed; Saint Photis, Monastery, Austrians, Sympligades, Spartacus, Jurassic Park, Galatiani, Cave, Ourania and Kreissaal.

Rebolt Kalymnos, who have spent the past year attempting to engage with the municipality without success, will soon publish a list of an additional 15 crags that should be avoided.

As a general guideline, by Rebolt Kalymnos, routes established before 2006 should be avoided. The newer the hardware is, the more safe it is. There are more than 2.500 routes established after 2015.

Vertical-Life will publish a more detailed article within the next two weeks, following their visit to the island to investigate the bolting issues. We are also just finishing a new feature to the database where you will be able to add specific bad bolts etc to your logbook.

Stefano Ghisolfi has, in just one session, sent Mascella Serrata (9a) in Arco. Last month also Silvio Reffo repeated the Gabri Moroni’s future classic.
Can you take us through the session including how much you rested in between the attempts?
I warmed up at home, and rested 30 minutes between the goes, maybe 45. I focused on the moves on my first go and on some sections on my second go. Third go I gave an attempt but I broke a hold at the beginning so I did it in few parts, and sent it 4th go.

Théo Charmasson has repeated Camillle Coudert’s La Force Obscure (8C) in Fontainebleau.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It’s now the hardest problem in the Orsay roof since most famous line, « La Force »broke. I’ve been working on this boulder for a long time because I tried the 8B exit 6 years ago. Last year, I fell several times on the last move and injured my finger on it, but this year I finally got my revenge !

Jon Cardwell, who sent his first 9a almost twenty years ago, has done the first ascent of Tu Me Manques (9a) in Las Conchas. ”A very meaningful route to me. Dedicated to our dog, Peyton. A beautiful climb with intense and technical boulder problems throughout. Still unsure of the grade, maybe 9a/+, I need some help confirming some of the new routes!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
So yeah, this route is pretty special to me for a number of reasons. First of all, it’s actually an incredible line up a perfect tower feature. The wall itself about 40 meters tall (leaning tower in Las Conchas) is actually pretty significant for New Mexico climbing, hosting one of the first 5.13+/8b routes in the state (the later became harder due to holds breaking) and another 5.13/7c+ trad route.

People have looked that the line I bolted for many years but no one committed beyond that. This summer, my wife and I were climbing in the area and I went for a walk to look at the wall. Immediately I was inspired and had to get a closer look. Later that season I did a recon mission with some RB’s and was surprised that it was all there - of course with some small question marks but I figured I could sort it out. I bolted it, however during that process our 10 year old dog was diagnosed with an aggressive bone cancer. It was an incredibly difficult time facing end of life with her, making climbing emotionally challenging. She would come with us everywhere and the absence was really hard.

Eventually nature took its course and earlier this year I started trying the route again. After a handful of days I sorted my sequences and started making red point attempts. It didn’t take super long, about 6 or 7 days, but I think the route really suits my style (technical and bouldery power endurance). It also didn’t hurt that I did a ton of bouldering this winter up to 8B+ and working on some harder projects. I think that really helped my power and made things move faster.

Anyway, it came to a close after a huge fight on the crux, after that it’s not more than 8a so you can kind of relax and take it in. At the same time still need to stay focused. It’s a really cool balance. “Tu Me Manques” is a French term for I miss you, and it’s dedicated to Peyton.

Grades are always tricky and I’ve kind of been in my own little bubble down here searching out first ascents so my gauge may be a little off. However, most of my FA’s are still unrepeated! Probably due to a lot of them being in obscure places but I can’t wait to others to come and give their opinions.

I also thought about it a lot, you don’t see a ton of people in my generation bolting routes. Sure there definitely are some (adam, joe, Jonathan, Seb, etc) but most of the development we see is in bouldering, it makes me think that finding high end sport routes is actually pretty special and if we’re talking about 9b and above, incredibly rare. After all it’s been my goal since moving back to NM to bring 9a+ and beyond to my home state. It’s been a few years now and turns out it’s really hard to find those climbs! I thought this route might be it but I’m just not sure it breaks that barrier. However, I do have a couple more projects down south at another spot that I’m certain are much harder. Now that I’m done up here, my mission is simple.