The Speed Climbing world record holder, Danyil Boldirev, will run a camp in Slovenia and Austria 16-20/11. ICC has helped ous out with getting some interesting comments from 194 cm Danyil, who will also start training Lead and Boulder in hope to make it to the Olympics. "Lead climbers speed training is really good and it could just help you to improve also in lead especially for girls. The good combination of all three discipline is actually perfect training. It would be much more interesting with classic speed, so that there is different route on every competition. I heard that there will be criteria on last two years before Olympics and for example they will choose first five from last world championship combined, first five in World Cup 2019 overall and all the continental champions. But I think this is not official yet."

This is the first free ascent of this route, which was set up by Patrice Glairon-Rapaz. It´s composed of 5 pitches, 4 of which are between 8b and 8c and after this free ascent we could be talking about one of the hardest MP in France. As he says on his Facebook page, Cédric redpointed on his third day on the route. This is one more MP success for him after repeating the famous Orbayu two years ago. Cédric is both a successful competition and outdoor climber who won both world cup and world championships. Photo by Raphael Fourau.

Black Diamond dan Dawn Wall'un tepesindeki Ondra'yla ilgili heyecanlı haberler geliyor. (c) Heinz Zak. "Ofiste bir gün daha;-) Dün platformu yukarı taşıyıp duvara kurduk. 16. ip boyunun istasyonundan gece olana kadar 14., 15. ve 16. ip boylarındaki hamlelere çalıştım. Bu üçü tüm tırmanışın en zor ip boyları ve her ip boyunda yapbozun küçük bir parçasını gözden kaçırıyorum, fakat daha iyi parmak derisi ve daha soğuk şartlarda(ki geliyor), umarım yakında bu ip boylarına bir ayar vereceğim. 14. ip boyunda esrarlı bir son kısa kaya problemi var, tutacak bir şey yokmuş gibi görünüyor fakat aslında bakması bile korkunç birkaç jilet tutamak var. Bu ip boyunun önceki bölümlerine ise gayet iyi hissettim. 15. ip boyunda bu sıcak koşullarda tutmayı hiçte istemediğim jilet gibi bir tutamak var, derimin soyulmasını istemiyorum. İp boyunun kalanı ise fena değil. 16. ip boyunda şu çılgın atlayış var ki kesinlikle zor. Hiç denemedim ama bir başka versiyonu da mevcut. İp boyunun kalanı alengirli ve tırstırıcı ama ben kendimce bir yol buldum. Sanırım önümüzdeki günlerde hava koşulları izin verirse bu üç ip boyuna çalışacağım."

Rock & Ice reports that Joe Kinder, who previously has done six 9as, has done the FA of Bone Tomahawk in the Fynn Cave after six years and some 40 days of projecting. (c) Tristan Greszko. "Regarding the grade, Kinder says, it could be “a normal 9a [5.14d] or a 9a+ [5.15a], but hell.... I don't know and don't want to state anything I'm not comfortable with. What’s next on the docket for Kinder? “The extension,” he says, which “[tacks] on an 8b+ [5.14a]. I linked the section yesterday.... I can do it!” It should be noted that R & I has given it 9a/+. Such slash grade is normally used when you define that the difficulty is exactly in between two grades. Joe seems to indicate that the grade is rather either of the two grades, that is why 8a has reported it as 9a (+). Furthermore, slash grades are hardly ever used by the community nowadays.

This week has started with a new All Time High both measured my number of visits and unique visits. Based on Google Analytics, this week started with 14 500 respectively 14 100 unique visitors. Overall, the increase in traffic continues to be around 20 % in 2016. In total, 63 000 members have added close to 4.1 million ascents that could guide you to find the best climbs in the world.

Daniel Jung has done his second 9a+, Corona in Frankenjura. On his FB page Daniel shares the story. Photo by his brother Markus. "Sunday evening I was lucky to send my dream route "Corona" 9a+. It was allready 20:30 and dark. I didn't expect any big process that go, but suddenly I stuck the crux move! After the crux there are still some moves that needed full attention, I also had to skip two bolts that made everything even more spicy. Luckily I didn't got too nervous, and could send it up to the top. At the end I'm happy that I took the decision to go for the original beta from Markus Bock, even if it felt a more powerful. When I saw his video I didn't believe that I could climb it one day. Big thanks to everyone that spend a good time with me on that rock!"

Note that Adam Ondra son klibini yapıyor fakat çıkışını kutlamadan 40 saniye ve altı hamle daha yaparak tırmanışa devam ediyor. Bu ise rota açıcının değil kayanın tanımladiğı sınırda rotayı bitirmek anlamına geliyor. Muhtemelen kötü kaya yapısı veya ip sürtünmesi son boltun yerinde etkili olmalı. Ondra bir kez daha bir ileri adımı gösteriyor.

Nicolai Užžnik has done his first 8B, Wrestling with an Alligator in Malatal. What is interesting, he found a new beta so instead of doing the dyno and taking the swing, he just kept crimping. "I sent the boulder in my first session in Maltatal after more than 2 months without climbing because of a finger injury. I did not expect to climb it that fast because the last few holds where completely wet, so I'm really happy about that. This season didn't worked as I wanted it, due to my injury where I missed both boulder and lead European Youth Championships and now also the World Youth Championships in China.

Michaela Kiersch has done her second 8c+ in Red River Gorge in 2016, Lucifer. (c) Andy Wickstrom "Sooo psyched!!!! Surprise send on one of my projects this weekend, Lucifer. It's so rewarding to know that my hustlin is paying off. I will be the first to admit that juggling school, work, and climbing has been overwhelming and challenging this year. But education is something I value deeply and I take pride in knowing that I can succeed in climbing and in school. After stuffing my face with and driving the looooong 7 hours home I snuck in some studying for this 8am exam that I'm about to take. Wish me luck!