The sixth and second last stage of the Lead World Cup took place in Xiamen, China this weekend. The world champion, Janja Garnbret, took her fourth victory and so she has secured the overall title. Among the male, Stefano Ghisolfi won for the first time since his first victory in 2014. The overall leader, Domen Skofic, also from Slovenia, was just #9 meaning that also Jakob Schubert and Romain Desgranges are on the run for the 2016 title. 1. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA - Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Dmitrii Fakiryanov RUS - Anak Verhoeven BEL 3. Jakob Schubert AUT - Jain Kim KOR 4. Gauthier Supper FRA - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 5. Romain Desgranges FRA - Mina Markovic SLO

1. Domen Skofic 392 - Janja Garnbret 465 2. Romain Desgranges 337 - Anak Verhoeven 395 3. Jakob Schubert 337 - Jain Kim 350 4. Stefano Ghisolfi 301 - Magdalena Röck 308 5. Gauthier Supper 255 - Mina Markovic 251 The overall ranking above is based on five out of six events. If Anak wins the last event, she will get 495 points but Janja has 516 points counting all six so she has already secured the overall title. If either Romain Desgranges or Jakob Schubert wins in Kranj, Domen has to be #6 in front of his home crowd to secure the title. Overall, only 20 male and female have competed in all six events in 2016.

Our new Web Developer, Tieme van Veen, has deployed some updates to our new responsive beta.8a.nu. New things: 1. Click Search and you will get a list nearby crags with distance to them and driving instructions. 2. Filter Crag Ticklist to find your best climbs (not mobile yet) 3. All news in a handy mobile format - beta.8a.nu/news" 4. Check your and friends' scorecards Next up is making it possible to add ascents to your scorecard. The plan is to have most ready within a few months but keep the old website so you can choose between them.

Adam Ondra has made fast progress on The Dawn Wall and this is his latest Instagram report. "@kjorgeson giving me the jugging up master class the other day and as well as beta for the pitches. The third day up on the Dawn Wall I fixed the lines almost to the top of pitch 16 (dyno pitch). I checked the moves on the crux pitches and it looked definitely hard. Beautiful, HARD, intimidating and motivating project. @tommycaldwell was a huge visionary to see this line in the middle of the blank wall." On the Black Diamond FB Adam gives some more insight to his strategy. "I would like to emphasize that I am not free climbing everything yet. The goal right now is only to go ground-up to the top, free-climbing and using a little bit of aid climbing, to fix the whole line with ropes and start working on the pitches properly to have them ready for the final free push later. So if the crux is around the protection, I just touch the holds to see how the sequence would be and continue. The first crux-pitch looked definitely super hard to free climb. Almost impossible. I will have to take a look at all these razorblades more closely."

With more than 3 300 routes spread over some 70 sectors it can be quite hard to find your preferred routes to try. One great assistance can be the 8a Ticklist, where you can search for grades and the best routes, for example by onsight percentage etc. However, based on your personal wanted routes and daily conditions, you might be better off by a local Kalymnos insider that knows the topo and the Ticklist. Based on the idea of providing Inside Tick List Tips on Kalymnos, Wild Sport will start doing it next week in their main shop. Just show up there and they will help you to find the best sectors and routes for you.

In order to promote onsight climbing, the webmaster has created an onsight ranking. Enjoy!

EPIC TV shop has La Sportiva sales this week. Testarossa is offered at just Euro 109 with free shipping. This price is actually lower then what La Sportiva offers at their own Outlet.

Neil Gresham, a well-known trainer for the last 20 years, has done his first 8c+, Sabotage in Malham. © Ian Parnell Photography "I guess I've reached a peak in sport climbing in my mid forties because I didn't really do any sport climbing in my thirties - I was just going adventuring and doing trad, ice DWS, and so on. I pushed my sport climbing pretty hard in my early twenties but training methods and facilities were primitive back then and I used to get injured quite a lot. There were also way less routes to choose from back in the early 90s and most of the routes in the high F8s were short and powerful and didn't really suit me. I've been pretty structured in terms of applying a very specific focus on my projects. Both Sabotage and Freakshow (my 8c at Kilnsey last year) had moves that I couldn't do, so I had to gain the specific strength for them (by doing replica blocs and working the same finger grips on a hangboard etc) and I also trained endurance at the same angle, style and intensity as the routes. As for 9a, it isn't a goal unless my next project at Kilnsey turns out to be 9a, in which case I will square up to it!"

Black Diamond comes with the latest Dawn Wall updates with some quotes from Adam Ondra. (c) Heinz Zak “We started pretty late yesterday and the fact that we are very inexperienced was obvious right from the beginning—I’ve done a lot of jugging up in my life, but only sport climbing and always using one GriGri and one ascender. Bad technique resulted in being super slow and tired after having jugged up the first 7 pitches. It was 3:30 p.m. by that time, so I managed to get to the top of pitch 10 until it got dark. It was quite intense, a lot of bold climbing again, especially on pitch 10, which is another horrendous layback with poor protection. A combination of aid climbing, French-freeing and fear got me to the top without ripping out any of my pieces of pro. I didn’t feel like going for more adventure in the dark, so we just fixed our ropes and I tried pitch 7, 8 and 10 (5.14a, .13d and .14a) on toprope with headlamp. These pitches are not only bold, but freaking hard too! Definitely no easy grades for these ones—Tommy and Kevin are tough guys! I tried the moves all over again to get some confidence and we got back to the camp by 12:30 at night. Big day for sure."

Kalymnos is well-known for its soft grades but in reality in 2017 the new gym climbing generation will probably say the grades are hard. The reason for this is that almost half of the first steep routes have been downgraded, some lines are a bit polished and there has been a change in the climber profile and average strength. Some ten years ago, gyms were limited especially when it comes to Bouldering. Nowadays, new Boulder gyms are popping up everywhere and more and more climbers are performance oriented, following training programs. In Kalymnos, the unique and classical routes are long, 3-dimensional, with focus on resting and technique, which makes them almost the anti-style of Bouldering. After one attempt on the classical Aegialis 7c, (c) Jörg Zeidelhack, most need an hour's rest and can do a maximum of three attempts per day. This can be compared with the Bouldering lifestyle where you could do 30 attempts a day and instead of just ticking Aegialis, you could do at least five 7Bs. Amazingly, during the last month, Aegialis has been ticked only five times, which is just half of the average ascent number of the last ten years. At the same time, more lines of around the 7B grade are added to the 8a database. As the difficulty scale in climbing is supposed to reflect how hard the community has to struggle for doing different routes, it is time to stop saying that the typical routes are soft in Kalymnos and start to regard them as rather hard.