- Böylesine bir manzarayı ve misafirperverliği daha önce hiç tecrübe etmemiştim. Japonya'dan tek başıma gelip sahil boyunca direksiyon salladıktan sonra birçok samimi insanla tanışmak harika oldu. Tırmanış çok iyi ve kayanın kalitesi yüksek. Dört sektörün içinden estetik ve eşsiz özel hatları denemeye çalıştım. Diyebilirim ki burasının büyük bir tırmanış bölgesi olma potansiyeli var. Sachi Amma kısa bir sunum yapmak ve soruları cevaplamak üzere ilk Leonidio Tırmanış Festival'ne davet edildi. Dakikalar içinde seyirciler kendilerini güldüren ve samimi cevaplar veren bu adama ısındılar. - Leonidio'da yaşayan insanların sırrını bilmek istiyorum. Japonya'da insanlar bu kadar misafirperver değil. Ne oluyor burda anlamadım. - Sana buralı bir kız bulalım? (Belediye Başkanı soruyor). - Kız arkadaşım olmasaydı iyi olurdu aslında. - Tırmanırken bağırmaya başlarsam 9a çıkabilir miyim sence? - Çok iyi bir soru :) Şu anki tırmanış derecen nedir? Biliyor musun gençken idollerim Chris ve Adam sürekli tırmanırken bağırıyorlardı ve ben de böyle başladım. Sanıyorum bağırmak kuvvetli nefes çıkışıyla sana hayvani bir güç verebilir.

In comparison with other physical sports, female climbers' performances are really close to the male's. The best example is Ashima Shiraishi and there are probably about 100 female who do at least an 8c Route or an 8A Boulder every year. However, when it comes to onsight and flash, female are relatively poor and it is rare that we see 8b onsights or 7C flashes. Nice exceptions to this are the 8a ranking game onsight/flash leaders, Laura Rogara (15), with eleven 8a to 8b onsights, and Karoline Sinnhuber, with seven 7C to 8A flashes. Being in the top-10 female boulderers in the world you need to do ten 8A's yearly but at the same time, you just seem to need to flash ten 7B+ or harder Boulder problems. When it comes to Routes, it is probably enough to onsight ten 7c's to be in the top-10, which seems easier than to redpoint ten 8b+'s or harder.

Now you can check the News, your scorecard, your friends' latest ascents, all Crag Ticklists and find driving directions to the crags on the new responsive website beta.8a.nu.

Tom O'Halloran has done his second 9a FA in Blue Mountains, Kitten Mittens. "So good. First route I ever bolted. Cool to see the process to the end!"

Pavel Blazek reports on Instagram, "As of right now the plan is to go back to the pitch #3 tomorrow - there was some surprisingly hard move - then have two days rest and start the push on Monday." Pavel also says he has a pulled muscle in the back so he is not sure if he can do it without not slowing Adam too much.

97: Margo Hayes USA - Simon Lorenzi BEL 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Giorgio Bendazzoli ITA 01: Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sam Avezou FRA Complete results 1. Slovenia took all medals in female -99 and their fourth participant was #5. This must be the greatest domination by a country in the Youth Worlds. Among the male -99, Italy had three guys in the Top-8. 2. Ashima Shiraishi topped all four routes but also Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes, Same Avezou and Giorgio Bendazzoli won all four rounds. 3. Simon Lorenzi was the biggest sensational winner - he was #21 after the two qualification routes. 4. USA and Japan with eight finalists were the two best countries. Surprisingly, bad results for Austria, Spain and Germany.

Jan Vopat has had a great week in Kalymnos where he onsighted six routes 8a to Por la socidad con mujeres satisfeches 8b. In the 8a onsight game ranking, the 13 year old is #11. Next year the Czech is old enough to compete in the Youth World Champions.

Adam Ondra is resting for the big push on the 32 pitches of The Dawn Wall, half out of which are 8a+ or harder, including four 8b+'s, one 8c, one 8c+ and two 9a's. What is actually not so well-known is that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson did a team ascent FA, meaning that they just needed to top rope half of the pitches, i.e swing leads. However, as the two 9a's were traverses, both led them and then Jorgesson lead the 8c+ but Caldwell opted for an 8c loop variation. In total, Caldwell and Jorgesson spent 16 days up the 1 000 meter the Dawn Wall to do the first team ascent. Earlier on they had spent six years projecting the line. Adam will not have the benefit of climbing half of the pitches on top rope which makes his ascent harder as most of the time he will be protected only on trad gear. Adam is accompanied by Pavel Blazek who reported on his Instagram three weeks ago: "We both find it quite funny - Adam never really trad climb, I've never been on multipitch climb, neither of us ever had to jug up or set the fix ropes on big wall ... The learning curve is bit steep :) :) :)"

Heavy rain during the third day of the Youth World Championships in Guangszhou, China forced the origanizers to stop the male Boulder qualification. Plans have been made to run the qualification on Saturday. The female competed in Speed and Russia got all the golds where 17-year-old Elizaveta Ivanova had the best time with 8.60.

Ralf Grabowski has done his first 9a with the FA of Walk the Plank, which is a link up of two Toni Lamprect's routes (8b/8b+ and 8c/8c+). It is probably one of the best lines in Kochel and combines climbing on for the northern alps untypical big pockets, far moves and great rock with the beautiful beech trees of the spot. The 38-year-old has previously done one 8c+ and more than a handful 8c's and more than 250 8a and harder. It took him some 50 sessions to take his FA down. Here is a nice video made by Pirmin Bertle.