Adam Ondra 32 ipboylu Down Wall'un büyük çıkışı için dinleniyor. İp boylarının yarıdan fazlası 8a+ dan daha zor ve 4 8b+, bir 8c, bir 8c+ ve iki 9a var. Tommy Caldwell ve Kevin Jorgesson'nin aslında bir takım İ.Ç.'ı yaptıkları çok iyi bilinmiyor. Bunun anlamı ipboylarının yarısının tepeden emniyetli çıkılmış olması. Bununla birlikte yan geçişler olan iki 9a'yı ikisi de lider tırmandı ve Jorgesson'in lider çıktığı 8c+'ı Caldwell 8c'lik bir diğer yoldan çıktı. Sonuçta, Caldwell ve Jorgesson 16 tırmanış günü ve evvelinde 6 yıl çalışma harcadılar. Adam ipboylarının yarısını tepeden emniyetli tırmanma lüksüne sahip olmayacak ve bu da onun çıkışını daha zorlu hale getiriyor ki kimi zaman sadece geleneksel malzemelere güveniyor olacak. Adam'ın tırmanışında yanında olacak Pavel Blazek üç hafta önce Instagram hesabından şöyle yazmıştı: "İkimizde bunu çok komik bulduk - Adam daha önce hiç geleneksel tırmanmamıştı, bense hiç çok ipboylu rotada bulunmamıştım, hiçbirimiz daha önce ne cumarlamış ne de büyük bir duvarda sabit ip hattı kırmuştuk ... Galiba zor yoldan öğreneceğiz :) :) :)"

97: Margo Hayes USA - Simon Lorenzi BEL 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Giorgio Bendazzoli ITA 01: Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sam Avezou FRA Complete results 1. Slovenia took all medals in female -99 and their fourth participant was #5. This must be the greatest domination by a country in the Youth Worlds. Among the male -99, Italy had three guys in the Top-8. 2. Ashima Shiraishi topped all four routes but also Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes, Same Avezou and Giorgio Bendazzoli won all four rounds. 3. Simon Lorenzi was the biggest sensational winner - he was #21 after the two qualification routes. 4. USA and Japan with eight finalists were the two best countries. Surprisingly, bad results for Austria, Spain and Germany.

Jan Vopat has had a great week in Kalymnos where he onsighted six routes 8a to Por la socidad con mujeres satisfeches 8b. In the 8a onsight game ranking, the 13 year old is #11. Next year the Czech is old enough to compete in the Youth World Champions.

Adam Ondra is resting for the big push on the 32 pitches of The Dawn Wall, half out of which are 8a+ or harder, including four 8b+'s, one 8c, one 8c+ and two 9a's. What is actually not so well-known is that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson did a team ascent FA, meaning that they just needed to top rope half of the pitches, i.e swing leads. However, as the two 9a's were traverses, both led them and then Jorgesson lead the 8c+ but Caldwell opted for an 8c loop variation. In total, Caldwell and Jorgesson spent 16 days up the 1 000 meter the Dawn Wall to do the first team ascent. Earlier on they had spent six years projecting the line. Adam will not have the benefit of climbing half of the pitches on top rope which makes his ascent harder as most of the time he will be protected only on trad gear. Adam is accompanied by Pavel Blazek who reported on his Instagram three weeks ago: "We both find it quite funny - Adam never really trad climb, I've never been on multipitch climb, neither of us ever had to jug up or set the fix ropes on big wall ... The learning curve is bit steep :) :) :)"

Heavy rain during the third day of the Youth World Championships in Guangszhou, China forced the origanizers to stop the male Boulder qualification. Plans have been made to run the qualification on Saturday. The female competed in Speed and Russia got all the golds where 17-year-old Elizaveta Ivanova had the best time with 8.60.

Ralf Grabowski has done his first 9a with the FA of Walk the Plank, which is a link up of two Toni Lamprect's routes (8b/8b+ and 8c/8c+). It is probably one of the best lines in Kochel and combines climbing on for the northern alps untypical big pockets, far moves and great rock with the beautiful beech trees of the spot. The 38-year-old has previously done one 8c+ and more than a handful 8c's and more than 250 8a and harder. It took him some 50 sessions to take his FA down. Here is a nice video made by Pirmin Bertle.

Gonzalo Larrocha has done his third 9a in 2016, Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya. "The power of the multi- execution. I guess that it can be soft in its grade But I was struggled in those two moves."

Adam Ondra comments on his Instagram that he has just freeclimbed the pitch 10 (8b+) of the Dawn Wall. It seems that his final attempt is getting closer and closer. "One more day on the wall;-) Pitch 10 5.14a in the bag. For me the hardest pitch besides the two traverses (14 and 15)"

Edu Marin has made the FA of the five-pitch-long Tarragó Plus 8c located in Montserrat, which was the first playground crag for both Edu and his father, Novato, who belayed him. Tarragó was first freed by the Pou brothers in 2013 as an 8b+ and first Edu repeated the original line but two days later he opted for combining the two crux pitches and creating a 55 meter 8c with lots of ropedrag. "After freeing Tarragó, I thought that it would be best to join pitch 4 (8a) and pitch 5 (8b+), as the anchor was situated in the middle of a very difficult sequence. It was logical to me to rest after, not during that crux." "It is one of the most amazing routes I have ever climbed, aesthetically perfect, very aerial and exposed."

The best conditions are normally said to be around zero degrees and sunny or a couple degrees warmer with no sun. On the other hand, cold fingers will not make you climb anything. The best tipson how to keep warm taking advantage of the prime conditions is actually to wear Vertic sleeves or something similar to keep your forearm warm. The blood from your heart is 37 degrees warm and the best way to keep this temperature until it reaches the non protected fingers is by having an extra layer all the way to the wrist. This in combination with an open glove will have the best impact making you able to climb harder in lower temperatures. Here are more tips on how to keep warm, other than wearing a lot of clothing and being active while resting, especially doing the windmill. 1. Warm up inside 2. Put your gloves and shoes inside your clothing 3. Use a bigger pair of shoes so you can wear socks 4. Electric or chemical heater that can be put in your chalk bag