In the forum Nikolina Marinova has brought attention to the fact that it seems that IFSC have presented wrong Combined results of the Youth World Championships. "12.7.3. b) If two or more competitors are tied following the calculation of the arithmetic sum, the tie shall be broken by comparing the ‘best’ result achieved by each tied competitor. If following this the tie remains unbroken, then the second best results shall be compared. If following a comparison of all results the tie remains unbroken, then the head-to-head performance of any competitors remaining tied shall be used to break the tie." In total, Nikolina has found six errors including that Filip Schenk lost his bronze because IFSC did include more people than just the Combined competitors when searching for their "best" results. Complete ranking. Furthermore, while presenting the male juniors result, IFSC has based it on the semifinals instead of finals!

Jorg Verhoeven has freeclimbed Dihedral Wall 8b+ in Yosemite after 5 days of effort. This is the second free ascent of this route. Tommy Caldwell, the first who freeclimbed it, commented that it has the hardest pitch in Yosemite apart from The Dawn Wall. This is the second freeclimbed bigwall for Jorg in Yosemite after his ascent of The Nose 8b last year. (c's) Jon Glassberg Jorg was accompanied by his partner Katharina Saurwein, who just before Jorg's ascent did her first hard MP by Final Frontier, a ten-pitch-long 8a. Both of them have been among the best competition climbers for the last ten years. Jorg won the Lead World Cup in 2008 and this year he was #3 in a Boulder WC and Katha won one Lead event and was second in a Bouldering WC in 2008. Last year she was #3 in Eiroe Bouldering Championship.

Adam Ondra shares his plan for the Dawn Wall and he will start pushing early on Monday morning, belayed by Pavel Blazek, who has never been on a MP before. They will be accompanied by the legend Heinz Zak taking pictures. "Tomorrow going for the push! First two days of heat and climbing the first 13 pitches, then one restday of rain and then perfect conditions for the crux pitches on day 4. Starting tomorrow at 3 AM to get done as many pitches as possible before the remorseless sun hits the wall." During the FA, Caldwell and Jorgesson managed to do the crux pitches after nine respectively 14 days.

Pavel Blazek reported on Instagram that at 5.13 AM, Adam Ondra was already up at pitch five. One hour later, they reported that seven pitches had been done and that the plan was to do another two pitches. Here are the grades for the first nine trad pitches: 7b, 7c+, 8a+, 7b, 7c, 8a+, 8b+, 8b, 8a+ You can find Ondra's report here. "First day, good day. 9 pitches in the bag after 6 hours of climbing. Conditions were not the best, but I could still reach the goal of the day. Now hopefully we will survive the heat on the portaledge and take a 28 hours of rest until we continue tomorrow, starting with pitch 10." 8b+, 8a+, 8c, 8a+ are coming up next and then Adam will rest one day continuing with the cruxes on day four; 9a, 9a and 8c+. After that there are still 16 more pitches to go, starting with an 8b+.

The youth World Championships in China are just another example showing that IFSC should include more bonuses in the Bouldering competitions. Almost half of the competitors did not make a single Boulder in the qualification or the direct semifinal. Imagine travelling around the globe and answering questions once you are back home. - How did it go? - I got one bonus. - What do you mean? - I did not top out any of the five boulders but I reached midways on one. - So you were among the lasts? - No almost half the guys had that result. - Sounds stupid and boring travelling around the globe for that? - YES!

- The hospitality and scenery are one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. Coming alone from Japan and driving along side the coast and just meet so nice people, have touched by heart. The climbing is really nice and the rock quality is high. All the four sectors I have tried have been unique in different ways with aesthetic lines. I think Leonidio has a great potential to be a big climbing destination. Sachi Amma was invited to be a part of the first Leonidio Climbing Festival and to make a short presentation and answer questions. Within minutes, the audience understands that this is really down to earth guy answering in a very personal way, which makes people laugh. - I want to know the secret of the people living in Leonidio. In Japan people do not show so much hospitality. I want to know the secret from this trip. - Do you want us to set up a meeting with a local girl? (The major is asking). - That would be nice since I do not have a girlfriend. - Do you think I could also climb 9a if I started to scream? - That is a nice one :) Which grade do you climb now? You know when I was young my idols were Chris and Adam and they scream a lot so I also started screaming but I think you can get the same animal power just by breathing intensively.

97: Margo Hayes USA - Borna Cujic CRO 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Keita Dohi JPN 01: Nathan Marco FRA - Ashima Shiraishi USA Complete results 1. Miho Nonaka, #2 in the World Cup 2016, was just fourth among the juniors. 2. Most superior winners were Margo Hayes and Janja Garnbret. They were also together with Ashima Shiraishi, winners in both categories. 3. Japan was the best country overall followed by USA. 4. Most competitors did actually do zero boulders in the first round.

Fanatic climbing reports that Anak Verhoeven, #2 in the Lead World Cup 2016, has done two 8c+'s in Siurana, La reina mora and Broadway. (c) Seb Richard

It took IFSC several days after the World Championship in Paris to present the Combined results and for the Youths, it is the same again. Here is the only thing that they have presented so far: "Two months after becoming Combined world champion, Elena Krasovskaia of Russia was crowned Combined world youth champion after qualifying for the Finals in all three disciplines. Garnbret also competed in Speed -­ the first time this season -­ and finished ahead of Russian Luiza Emeleva. Raboutou claimed the title in Youth B, followed by Austrian Celina Schoibl and Rogora. Finally, Hayes placed 15th in Speed to top her third podium! Andrea Kümin of Switzerland and Russian Iuliia Panteleeva joined her on the podium. For the Males, Avezou also climbed in all three Finals for the unanimous Combined victory. Colombo and Martin rounded out the Youth B podium. Arsène Duval of France and Italian Pietro Biagini climbed in the Lead Finals of Youth A and placed first and third. Finishing second was Pan Yufei of China, who received warm applause from his home crowd. Although Lehmann missed each Finals, his steady performance earned him the Combined win. British Bouldering finalist William Bosi finished in second and German Ruben Firnenburg placed third."

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who has previously redpointed an 8c, has onsighted his first 7c+, Mirtoglicerina in Margalef. It should be noted that in order to motivate youngsters to do more onsight climbing, we will more or less stop reporting redpoints for kids under 15.