- The hospitality and scenery are one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. Coming alone from Japan and driving along side the coast and just meet so nice people, have touched by heart. The climbing is really nice and the rock quality is high. All the four sectors I have tried have been unique in different ways with aesthetic lines. I think Leonidio has a great potential to be a big climbing destination. Sachi Amma was invited to be a part of the first Leonidio Climbing Festival and to make a short presentation and answer questions. Within minutes, the audience understands that this is really down to earth guy answering in a very personal way, which makes people laugh. - I want to know the secret of the people living in Leonidio. In Japan people do not show so much hospitality. I want to know the secret from this trip. - Do you want us to set up a meeting with a local girl? (The major is asking). - That would be nice since I do not have a girlfriend. - Do you think I could also climb 9a if I started to scream? - That is a nice one :) Which grade do you climb now? You know when I was young my idols were Chris and Adam and they scream a lot so I also started screaming but I think you can get the same animal power just by breathing intensively.

97: Margo Hayes USA - Borna Cujic CRO 99: Janja Garnbret SLO - Keita Dohi JPN 01: Nathan Marco FRA - Ashima Shiraishi USA Complete results 1. Miho Nonaka, #2 in the World Cup 2016, was just fourth among the juniors. 2. Most superior winners were Margo Hayes and Janja Garnbret. They were also together with Ashima Shiraishi, winners in both categories. 3. Japan was the best country overall followed by USA. 4. Most competitors did actually do zero boulders in the first round.

It took IFSC several days after the World Championship in Paris to present the Combined results and for the Youths, it is the same again. Here is the only thing that they have presented so far: "Two months after becoming Combined world champion, Elena Krasovskaia of Russia was crowned Combined world youth champion after qualifying for the Finals in all three disciplines. Garnbret also competed in Speed -­ the first time this season -­ and finished ahead of Russian Luiza Emeleva. Raboutou claimed the title in Youth B, followed by Austrian Celina Schoibl and Rogora. Finally, Hayes placed 15th in Speed to top her third podium! Andrea Kümin of Switzerland and Russian Iuliia Panteleeva joined her on the podium. For the Males, Avezou also climbed in all three Finals for the unanimous Combined victory. Colombo and Martin rounded out the Youth B podium. Arsène Duval of France and Italian Pietro Biagini climbed in the Lead Finals of Youth A and placed first and third. Finishing second was Pan Yufei of China, who received warm applause from his home crowd. Although Lehmann missed each Finals, his steady performance earned him the Combined win. British Bouldering finalist William Bosi finished in second and German Ruben Firnenburg placed third."

Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who has previously redpointed an 8c, has onsighted his first 7c+, Mirtoglicerina in Margalef. It should be noted that in order to motivate youngsters to do more onsight climbing, we will more or less stop reporting redpoints for kids under 15.

- Böylesine bir manzarayı ve misafirperverliği daha önce hiç tecrübe etmemiştim. Japonya'dan tek başıma gelip sahil boyunca direksiyon salladıktan sonra birçok samimi insanla tanışmak harika oldu. Tırmanış çok iyi ve kayanın kalitesi yüksek. Dört sektörün içinden estetik ve eşsiz özel hatları denemeye çalıştım. Diyebilirim ki burasının büyük bir tırmanış bölgesi olma potansiyeli var. Sachi Amma kısa bir sunum yapmak ve soruları cevaplamak üzere ilk Leonidio Tırmanış Festival'ne davet edildi. Dakikalar içinde seyirciler kendilerini güldüren ve samimi cevaplar veren bu adama ısındılar. - Leonidio'da yaşayan insanların sırrını bilmek istiyorum. Japonya'da insanlar bu kadar misafirperver değil. Ne oluyor burda anlamadım. - Sana buralı bir kız bulalım? (Belediye Başkanı soruyor). - Kız arkadaşım olmasaydı iyi olurdu aslında. - Tırmanırken bağırmaya başlarsam 9a çıkabilir miyim sence? - Çok iyi bir soru :) Şu anki tırmanış derecen nedir? Biliyor musun gençken idollerim Chris ve Adam sürekli tırmanırken bağırıyorlardı ve ben de böyle başladım. Sanıyorum bağırmak kuvvetli nefes çıkışıyla sana hayvani bir güç verebilir.

Fanatic climbing reports that Anak Verhoeven, #2 in the Lead World Cup 2016, has done two 8c+'s in Siurana, La reina mora and Broadway. (c) Seb Richard

In comparison with other physical sports, female climbers' performances are really close to the male's. The best example is Ashima Shiraishi and there are probably about 100 female who do at least an 8c Route or an 8A Boulder every year. However, when it comes to onsight and flash, female are relatively poor and it is rare that we see 8b onsights or 7C flashes. Nice exceptions to this are the 8a ranking game onsight/flash leaders, Laura Rogara (15), with eleven 8a to 8b onsights, and Karoline Sinnhuber, with seven 7C to 8A flashes. Being in the top-10 female boulderers in the world you need to do ten 8A's yearly but at the same time, you just seem to need to flash ten 7B+ or harder Boulder problems. When it comes to Routes, it is probably enough to onsight ten 7c's to be in the top-10, which seems easier than to redpoint ten 8b+'s or harder.

Now you can check the News, your scorecard, your friends' latest ascents, all Crag Ticklists and find driving directions to the crags on the new responsive website beta.8a.nu.

Tom O'Halloran has done his second 9a FA in Blue Mountains, Kitten Mittens. "So good. First route I ever bolted. Cool to see the process to the end!"

Pavel Blazek reports on Instagram, "As of right now the plan is to go back to the pitch #3 tomorrow - there was some surprisingly hard move - then have two days rest and start the push on Monday." Pavel also says he has a pulled muscle in the back so he is not sure if he can do it without not slowing Adam too much.