NEWS

3. Gรผn- Ondra yedi kere 9a lฤฑk 14. ฤฐp boyundan dรผลŸtรผ.
Normalde 3. gรผnรผn dinlenme olmasฤฑna karar vermiลŸ olmasฤฑna raฤŸmen, Adam Ondra tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸa devam etti ancak ne yazฤฑk ki hesabฤฑndan duyurduฤŸuna gรถre Instagram yedi defa ilk 9a ip boyundan dรผลŸtรผ. "Lanet be! Mal gibi tฤฑrmandฤฑm, รงok fazla baskฤฑ, รงok fazla endiลŸe! 14. ip boyunun ilk kฤฑsakaya problemini geรงebilmek iรงin 7 defa denemem gerekti. Aslฤฑnda daha รถnce bu problemde fazla zorlanmamฤฑลŸtฤฑm ama bugรผn รงok zor geliyor. ฤฐlk denememde kaydฤฑm, ikincisinde รงok dengesiz hissettim ve korktum ve yine de sรผrekli kaymaktan kurtulamadฤฑm. Ardฤฑndan 7. denememde bu kฤฑsmฤฑ geรงtim ancak bu sefer de son hamleden dรผลŸtรผm. ฤฐyimser kalmak zor ancak yine deneyeceฤŸim. Umarฤฑn yarฤฑn ve daha temiz bir zihinle. Cesaretlendiren herkese teลŸekkรผrler. Bugรผn iรงin รผzgรผnรผm, umarฤฑm hala bir ลŸans vardฤฑr!"

Day 2 - Ondra has finished pitch 13
Adam Ondra comes with the great news on Instagram, "Tired but relieved face! Made it up to the start of pitch 14! As @alexhonnold brought some dark chocolate for @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson on their push and it seemed it helped them, Heinz did the same today. But he told me that I must deserve it first:-) And send pitch 10. I did in rather dramatic way on my 2nd go. Then, I almost finished the chocolate while having a few heartbreaking goes on the pitch 12 to calm my nerves. Luckily it all worked out and we are getting deserved sleep. More detailed info on @blackdiamond and @mytendon coming soon." On Pavel Blazek's Instagram, Adam explains that he actually did send pitch 12 on his fourth go and here you have the full report on Black Diamond including speculating an upgrade of an 8b+ pitch. Tendon has also presented all news from Adam the last month. Tomorrow Adam plans to rest and then go for the crux pitches; 9a, 9a and 8c+. It should be noted that during the FA Caldwell and Jorgesson needed six days to do the first 13 pitches swing lead, i.e. half on top rope.

It is quite common that hard core routes get intermediate anchors, i.e. an extra bolt is placed on a 9a route and makes it an 8c or so. This is something that, in our opinion, could also be done on easier routes in order to create more challenges. In Leonidio, Claude Remy has put up a sector with several 23 meter long 6b's with intermediate anchors at some 15 meters above the ground, creating some 5c's. It is a very good initiative and hopefully this trend will spread around the globe.

2. Gรผn- Ondra 13. ฤฐp boyunu bitirdi
Adam Ondra harika haberlerle geliyor Instagram, "Yorgun ama rahatlamฤฑลŸ durumdayฤฑm! 14. ฤฐp boyuna ulaลŸtฤฑm! @alexhonnold @tommycaldwell ve @kjorgeson iรงin รงukalata getirdiฤŸi gibi, Heinz de aynฤฑsฤฑnฤฑ bana yaptฤฑ ama รถnce bunu haketmem gerektiฤŸini sรถyledi:-) 10. ฤฐp boyunu dramatik biรงimde ikinci denememde รงฤฑkabildim. Ardฤฑndan, 12. ฤฐp boyuna yaptฤฑฤŸฤฑm birkaรง umut kฤฑrฤฑcฤฑ denemem sฤฑrasฤฑnda รงukalatayฤฑ neredeyse bitirdim. Neyseki tรผm yorgunluฤŸumuza deฤŸdi ve biraz uykuyu hakettik. Daha รงok bilgi iรงin @blackdiamond ve @mytendon coming soon." On Pavel Blazek's Instagram, Adam 12. ฤฐp boyunu 4. denemesinde รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑnฤฑ aรงฤฑklฤฑyor full report on Black Diamond Tendon Yarฤฑn Adam dinlenmeyi ve ardฤฑndan kilit ip boylarฤฑnฤฑ denemeyi planlฤฑyor; 9a, 9a ve 8c+. ลžunu da belirtelim ki i.ร‡. sฤฑrasฤฑnda Caldwell ve Jorgesson 13. ฤฐp boyunu bitirmek iรงin 6 gรผne ihtiyaรง duymuลŸlardฤฑ.

2. Gรผn- Ondra 13. ฤฐp boyunu bitirdi
Adam Ondra harika haberlerle geliyor Instagram, "Yorgun ama rahatlamฤฑลŸ durumdayฤฑm! 14. ฤฐp boyuna ulaลŸtฤฑm! @alexhonnold @tommycaldwell ve @kjorgeson iรงin รงukalata getirdiฤŸi gibi, Heinz de aynฤฑsฤฑnฤฑ bana yaptฤฑ ama รถnce bunu haketmem gerektiฤŸini sรถyledi:-) 10. ฤฐp boyunu dramatik biรงimde ikinci denememde รงฤฑkabildim. Ardฤฑndan, 12. ฤฐp boyuna yaptฤฑฤŸฤฑm birkaรง umut kฤฑrฤฑcฤฑ denemem sฤฑrasฤฑnda รงukalatayฤฑ neredeyse bitirdim. Neyseki tรผm yorgunluฤŸumuza deฤŸdi ve biraz uykuyu hakettik. Daha รงok bilgi iรงin @blackdiamond ve @mytendon coming soon." On Pavel Blazek's Instagram, Adam 12. ฤฐp boyunu 4. denemesinde รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑnฤฑ aรงฤฑklฤฑyor full report on Black Diamond Tendon Yarฤฑn Adam dinlenmeyi ve ardฤฑndan kilit ip boylarฤฑnฤฑ denemeyi planlฤฑyor; 9a, 9a ve 8c+. ลžunu da belirtelim ki i.ร‡. sฤฑrasฤฑnda Caldwell ve Jorgesson 13. ฤฐp boyunu bitirmek iรงin 6 gรผne ihtiyaรง duymuลŸlardฤฑ.

Here are the six Combined winners of the Youth Worlds including their overall relative score and their Speed ranking. The relative score includes only the competitors that compete in Combined. 97: Sascha Lehman SUI 20/19 - Margo Hayes USA 12/15 99: Arsene Duval FRA 14/26 - Elena Krasovskaia RUS 11/9 01: Sam Avezou FRA 6/11 - Brooke Raboutou USA 8/17 Based on the complete results we can see that none of the 18 juniors getting a podium in Speed where among the Top-12 overall. This shows once again that with the current Combined format it will be very hard for Speed specialists to be able to qualify to Tokyo.

Zangerl and Larcher do Zodiac 8b in Yosemite
Barbara Zangerl, one of the best female Boulderers some eight years ago, reports on Facebook that she has done the 600 meter and 16 pithes long Zodiac 8b together with Jacopo Larcher. (c) Jon Glassberg "This was one of these days I never will forget!! Zodiac free...we invested nearly all the time we had here in Yosemite and finally all the hard work paid off. Both of us freed every single pitch and we both leaded all of the 5.12+ up to 5.13d pitches. Sooooo stoked!!!! I think we did the third ascent---first free climbed by the Huber brothers 2003 and right after repeated by Tommy Caldwell. Thanks for the inspiration! Every single pitch was amazing and we had a looooot of fun up there, the last 5 days." Jacopo writes, "It felt pretty hard for the grade, as most of the hard pitches are really complex to climb, but they are all amazing. Most of them seemed impossible at the beginning, but with dedication and perseverance everything becomes possible."

Yesterday, 8a published an article saying that IFSC had presented the wrong Combined results of the Youth World Championship which also involved one podium. It was based on the official results which now, 36 hours later, have been removed. It should also be mentioned that, just like during the World Championships in Paris, it took more than 48 hours for the Olympic combined sport results to be presented by the IFSC.

The Golden Ticket 8c+ by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch reports on her Instagram account that she has done her third 8c+ in Red River Gorge, The Golden Ticket 8c+. "Hard Proudest accomp- lishment to date! Amazing climb, big moves, double dyno!! FFA" The former 9a route became famous after Ondra's onsight a few years ago. This was the third weekend during the last month where the full time student drove seven hours to the Red River Gorge. In the 8a ranking game, she is #3. (c) Andy Wickstrom

97: Ludovico Fossali ITA 6.43 - Karina Gareeva RUS 9.10 99: Gian Luca Zodda ITA - 7.09 Elizaveta Ivanova RUS 8.47 01: Almaz Algaev RUS 7.35 - Daria Kan RUS 8.69 Complete results