NEWS

Angela Eiter is back in shape after her injuries
Angela Eiter, the best female Lead competition climber in the history, reports that she is back after her injuries. During the last months she has done two 8A Boulders in Silvretta, British Airways and Shining. With rope, she has just done three 8b+'s in Jaen and flashed Lagunas mentales, 8a+ (b). "This year I have struggled with an inflammation on the tendon of my ringfinger, which almost recovered. Moreover, I ripped a tendon on my thigh, but regular therapy help me recover. I am sure that recovery periods are essential when you focus on hard climbs and maybe more when you are getting older. Climbing on high level bears the risk for injuries. Therefore I need a sensitive body feeling and have to listen deeply to the signals of my body. This method payed off!"

8c+ by Laura Rogora (15)
27 November 2016

8c+ by Laura Rogora (15)

Laura Rogora has made the FA of Tomorrowland extension 8c+ in Collepardo after eight tries. " It is one of the most beautiful route I have ever tried, congrats to Intorre Domenico who bolted this super line leaving it completely natural." (c) Franco Loadi This spring the 15-year-old did her first 9a and she is #1 in the 8a ranking game. When it comes to onsights, she is actually quite superior with four 8a+'s and two 8b's.

Jongwon Chon vyhral La Sporiva Legends Only s piatimi ฤistรฝmi topmi
Jongwon Chon, vรญลฅaz Svetovรฉho pohรกra v boulderingu 2015, predviedol na La Sporiva Legends Only v ล tokholme parรกdnu ลกou a preliezol vลกetkรฝch pรคลฅ bouldrov prvรฝm pokusom. Netradiฤnรฝ redpoint formรกt znamenal, ลพe si sรบลฅaลพiaci mohli nacviฤiลฅ problรฉmy uลพ dva dni pred pretekmi. Vo finรกle mal kaลพdรฝ pretekรกr na boulder tri pokusy, no keฤลพe sme videli mnoho topov, Chon si zaistil titul za pribliลพne jednu hodinu. Zaujรญmavรฉ je, ลพe je jedinรฝm spomedzi piatich รบฤastnรญkov, ktorรฝ lezie v lezeฤkรกch od La Sportivy. Video. Vรฝsledky na pรณdiu: 1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6 3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

Claude Remy jednotkou s 15 000 prvovรฝstupmi (FA)
Za poslednรฝch 40 rokov navล•tal tento ลกvajฤiar viac ako 15 000 ciest a dฤบลพok. V poslednรฝm rokoch sa zameral na lezeckรบ oblasลฅ Leonidio, predtรฝm sa pohyboval na Klaymnose. Claude vravรญ, ลพe v poslednรฝch tridsiatich rokoch viac-menej stรกle pracoval na poloviฤnรฝ รบvรคzok a vลกetok ostatnรฝ ฤas venoval robeniu novรฝch ciest spolu so svojim starลกรญm bratom. Na fotke istรญ miestne deti, ktorรฉ si prvรฝ raz vyskรบลกali lezenie. Prosรญm, nepรฝtaj sa ma, preฤo mรกm zrovna takรบto mรกniu. Moja ลพena sa ma to uลพ pรฝtala toฤพkokrรกt, no ja jednoducho nemรกm odpoveฤ. Vo ล vajฤiarsku ลพijem pri oblasti, kde mรดลพem kaลพdรฝ deลˆ vyjsลฅ z domu a jednoducho zaฤaลฅ robiลฅ novรฉ cesty. Takisto som rรกd sรบฤasลฅou toho, keฤ sa otvรกrajรบ novรฉ lezeckรฉ destinรกcie ako Kalymnos ฤi Leonidio." V poslednej dobe uลพ Claude nemusel tak ฤasto platiลฅ za istenia, ktorรฉ osรกdzal, no okrem toho si vลกetky nรกklady hradรญ sรกm a za robotu nedostรกva ลพiadny plat. Je to zvlรกลกtne, ฤasto sa stretรกvam s lezcami, ktorรญ si myslia, ลพe toto je moje zamestnanie a ลพe mรกm z toho celkom sluลกnรฝ zรกrobok." Za zmienku takisto stojรญ, ลพe nedรกvno dostal Albert Mountain Award a jeho otec Marcel (94) v lete preliezol osemdฤบลพkovรฉ 5a.

O cestu Era Vella je omnoho menลกรญ zรกujem po tom, ฤo hrozilo jej zhodenie na 8c+
Pred jeden a pol rokom Era Vellu prirovnal Jonathan Siegrist k 8c-ฤku a pred rokom si ju Magnus Midtbรถ ako prvรฝ zapรญsal za 8c+. Na fotke je v ceste nalezenรฝ Pablo Barbero. (c) TrilobitePro Pred tรฝmito vyhlรกseniami bola Era Vella jednoznaฤne najpopulรกrnejลกรญm 9a-ฤkom na svete s viac ako 30 prelezmi poฤas piatich rokov. Po nรกvrhoch na zhodenie vลกak zaลพila len dva prelezy poฤas poslednรฉho roka a pol. Tรกto cesta v ลกpanielskom Margalefe je z dielne Chrisa Sharmu a v databรกze 8a je jednou z najlepลกie hodnotenรฝch ciest vรดbec. Mรดลพe byลฅ tento pokles v jej popularite spรดsobenรฝ tรฝm, ลพe si lezci radลกej vyberรบ inรฉ 9a ako by riskovali, ลพe po ich preleze bude Era Vella zhodenรก?

Less interest for Era Vella after risking a downgrade to 8c+
18 months ago, Jonathan Siegrist compared Era Vella with 8c and 12 months ago, Magnus Midtbรถ was the first one to call it an 8c+. In the picture you can see Pablo Barbero. (c) TrilobitePro Prior to these statements, Era Vella was by far the most popular 9a in the world with 30 ascents during just five years. After these downgrade suggestions, however, it has just been repeated twice in 18 months. This route, put up by Chris Sharma, is one of the highest star-rated routes in the 8a data base so you wonder if the drop in popularity is because some climbers have chosen to redpoint another 9a instead doing something that is at risk of being downgraded?

Jongwon Chon wins Legends with 5 straight tops
Jongwon Chon, the World Cup 2015 winner, has made an amazing show in the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm by doing all five problems in his first try. The format was redpoint and the competitors had worked the problems on Thursday. In the final they had three tries and with many tops, Jongwon had actually secured his victory in just 1 hour. It is interesting that actually only the winner uses La Sportiva. Video. 1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6 3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

Jongwon Chon Legends'i 5 direkt top ile kazandฤฑ
2015 World Cup ลŸampiyonu Jongwon Chon, Stockholm'deki La Sportiva Legends'de tรผm rotalarฤฑ ilk denemede รงฤฑkarak ลŸov yaptฤฑ. Formata gรถre yarฤฑลŸmacฤฑlar รถnceki gรผn rotalara รงalฤฑลŸmฤฑลŸlardฤฑ ve bugรผn 3 deneme haklarฤฑ vardฤฑ. Jongwon bir saatte kazanmayฤฑ garantiledi ve ilginรง olan ลŸu ki yarฤฑลŸmayฤฑ kazanandan baลŸka kimse La sportiva kullanmฤฑyor. Video. 1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6 3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

Claude Remy #1 with 15 000 FAs
Claude Remy has put up some 15 000 routes/pitches during the last 40 years. Recently he has has been focused on Leonidio and before that - Kalymnos. The Swiss says that he has more or less always been working half-time for 30 years and the other half he has spent putting up routes, mainly with his older brother. The picture from Leonidio shows Claude helping out when local children try to climb for the first time. - Please do not ask me why I have this obsession. My wife has asked me that so many times and I just do not have any answer. I like in an area in Switzerland where I practically can go out every day and just open new routes. I love to be part of opening up new destinations like Kalymnos and Leonidio. During the last years, he has not so often paid for the bolts but other than that he covers all expenses himself and does not get paid for his work. - It is strange that I often meet so many climbers who think that this is my job and that I make good money out of it. It is noteworthy that he recently did get the Albert Mountain Award and that his father Marcel (94) did an eight pitches long 5a this summer.

History and updated topo of the Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra has posted Erik Sloan's updated topo, in which "Some grades of the pitches have been changed according to my feeling." On his Instagram Adam also presents some interesting historcal facts about the Dawn Wall. In fact, Adam's personal both up- and downgrades have been forwarded and here is the breakdown of the 19 pitches 8a and harder: 9a, 8c+, 8c/2, 8b+/3, 8b/2, 8a+/5, 8a/4.