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Jednou z najvรคฤลกรญch zmien v lezeckej komunite poฤas poslednรฝch rokov bol nรกrast v poฤte lezcov, ktorรญ sa sรบstredia na vรฝkonnostnรฝ trรฉning. Moลพnรฝm ลกtartรฉrom tohto trendu bol Adam Ondra pred niekoฤพkรฝmi rokmi a teraz sa mu venuje naprรญklad aj Chris Sharma. O trรฉningu a spรดsoboch, ako posunรบลฅ svoje lezenie na vyลกลกรญ level sa dรก doฤรญtaลฅ skoro vลกade a nechaลฅ hodinky na mobile rozhodovaลฅ o tom, ako dlho ฤlovek lezie je nieฤo novรฉ tak pre dospelรฝch lezcov, ako aj vo svete detรญ. S nรกrastom tohto trendu je vลกak dรดleลพitรฉ poznamenaลฅ, ลพe Adam Ondra aj Chris Sharma sa na takรฝto dostali z veฤพkej ฤasti prรกve kvรดli tomu, ลพe ลพijรบ pre lezenie. K lezeckรฉho ลกtรฝlu ลพivota potom zaradili aj vรฝkonnostnรฝ trรฉning. Ak ale ฤlovek zaฤne priamo trรฉnovaลฅ pre vรฝkony, mรดลพe tรฝm riskovaลฅ zranenia a stratu motivรกcie, keฤ sa tempo zlepลกovania spomalรญ alebo nastane stagnรกcia. Pravdepodobne najlepลกรญm ลกtรฝlom je zaฤaลฅ tak ako Ondra alebo Sharma: liezลฅ niekoฤพko rokov, zlepลกovaลฅ sa aลพ dokรฝm neprรญde stagnรกcia a potom nasadiลฅ vรฝkonnostnรฝ trรฉning na jej prekonanie. Samozrejme to ale ide aj tak, ako to robia naprรญklad Dave Graham, Daniel Woods alebo Nalle Hukkataival - jednoducho ลพiลฅ naplno pre lezenie.

V 8a databรกze sa nachรกdza 4.1 miliรณna prelezov a vลกetky boli zapรญsanรฉ jednรฝm z nasledujรบcich spรดsobov: 1. Cez strรกnku kliknutรญm "Pridaลฅ" v ฤพavej ฤast, s moลพnosลฅou pridania vลกetkรฝch detailov cesty ฤi bouldra 2. Cez mobilnรบ aplikรกciu kliknutรญm "Pridaลฅ cez mobil" s menej moลพnosลฅami 3. Cez vyhฤพadรกvanie v pravej ฤasti, kde staฤรญ nรกjsลฅ oblasลฅ a nรกsledne pridaลฅ cestu do Dennรญฤka ฤi Inventรกra Ak si preliezol znรกmu cestu v znรกmej oblasti a chceลก si ju zapรญsaลฅ, moลพnosลฅ ฤ. 3 bude najrรฝchlejลกia. Ak si naopak spravil nieฤo novรฉ alebo vyliezol mรกlo lezenรบ cestu ฤi boulder, najlepลกie bude pouลพiลฅ moลพnosลฅ ฤ.1. Moลพnosลฅ 3 bude v budรบcnosti sprรญstupnenรก aj na mobilnej strรกnke.

8a onsight by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (11)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done an 8c, has ticked off three 8b's and onsighted his first 8a last week, Pollastre de granja in Margalef. "It was very scary to clip the last bolt, I did not want to fall. The hardest part is on the first part. It is overhang climbing on small pockets but you can see the way to climb it. After the crux it is nice, vertical climbing that you cant see from the ground. It is my 5th try of trying to onsight an 8a." His mother, Ann, explains that Illya started climbing about five years ago but he has never had any trainers beside his parents, who climb in the 6th grade. Most of the times, Illya climbs outdoor as his parents normally work with IT and travel abroad. In 2014, he won Arco Rock Junior being 9 years old, and did his first 8a+. 8a encourage youngsters to focus mainly on onsights and a broad grade tick list pyramid. We will normally not publish ascents for kids mainly projecting hard redpoints.

Adam Ondra proudly sums up Yosemite and gives credit
Adam Ondra, who now has 51 000+ followers on his Instagram proudly sums up his six weeks in Yosemite. (c) Pavel Blazek "Yosemite climbing is hard. Like really hard. The Free Nose is even harder. @_linacolina_ 's (Lynn Hill) achievement is one the most radical achievements in the climbing history, in my opinion, still not fully appreciated. Hats off. The Dawn Wall is the hardest. I am proud to have done it. Possibly my proudest achievement im climbing. Nevertheless, the effort I had to make is incomparable to what @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson had to go through, not knowing where to climb and if it is climbable. I think they can be way prouder than me for what they did. El Cap is bad ass. That is the fact. No choss."

Angy Eiter - The combined format does not make sense
Angela Eiter, the best female lead competition climber in the history who has won four world championships, is equally negative towards the suggested Olympic format as Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Pic from Paris 2012, (c) Red Bull/S. Gruden "Speaking for myself, I think this Olympic format develops a new direction of competition climbing, where the original philosophy of climbing moves into the background. Nevertheless, it is quite likely that the younger generation adapts better to the new format and probably benefit from training all disciplines and the social settings. Anyway a difficult topic!" So would you have gone for it during your career? No, I wouldn't have gone for it. For me this format doesn't make sense. IFSC has forwarded some suggestions for the combined format which have been questioned by almost all federations. Some of them have gone together informally to suggest a new combined format. The IFSC decision will be made next spring. In fact, there are more top athletes that are equally negative but they have said they want to wait with their comments until the competition season is over.

8a in more languages - more editors are welcome
Currently, the 8a global news are translated into Spanish, French, Swedish and Polish by local contributors that can also publish country specific news. We are looking for more translators and local editors. Just send an email to [email protected]. The biggest country specific pages are USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, Austria, France, Switzerland and Sweden. These countries make between 800 and 3 000 sessions a day.

Stay auto-updated on Friends' and Crags ascents
Just like on Facebook, you can select from which Friends and Crags you will get notifications when an ascent has been added. Just go to your "Friends'" scorecard, click the button at the top and you will automatically see which climbs have been recorded lately. You can do the same thing for Crags and there you can also select which grades you want to follow. The picture shows where to click on "Add to My Friends" in Adam Ondra's scorecard to always stay updated on his latest ascents. Just his scorecard has been visited almost 1 million times. Adam's new Instagram has already 51 000 followers.

1 018 pull ups in 1 hour by Jan Kares
jan kares, #17 in 1 Lead WC 1998, is a pull-up and bolting fanatic. Yesterday, he set two new world records by doing 555 pull-ups in 30 minutes first and then 1 018 during 1 hour. His next plan is to go to Sardinia and continue his bolting mission with 600 bolts. Since 2008, the 43-year-old has spent some 150 days bolting, paying for everything by himself. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe.

Jan Kareลก spravil 1018 zhybov za 1 hodinu
jan kares, #17 na Svetovom pohรกri v lezenรญ na obtiaลพnosลฅ v 1998, je maniak do vล•tania a zhybovania. Vฤera prekoval hneฤ dva rekordy, keฤ spravil 555 zhybov za 30 minรบt a 1018 zhybov za jednu hodinu. Jeho ฤalลกรญ plรกn je cesta na Sardรญniu, aby pokraฤoval vo svojej vล•tacej misii so 600 ฤalลกรญmi borhรกkmi. Od roku 2008 strรกvil tento 43 roฤnรฝ lezec vล•tanรญm odhadom 150 dnรญ a vลกetky nรกklady hradil z vlastnรฉho vrecka. Jeho snom je, aby sa tรกto novรก oblasลฅ, nachรกdzajรบca sa blรญzko Cala Gonone, stala jednou z najlepลกรญch a najznรกmejลกรญch lezeckรฝch oblastรญ v Eurรณpe.

Buฤ informovanรฝ o prelezoch tvojich kamoลกov a prelezoch z tvojich obฤพรบbenรฝch oblastรญ
Presne tak ako na Facebooku, aj na 8a-ฤku si mรดลพeลก vybraลฅ, od ktorรฝch kamarรกtov a z ktorรฝch oblastรญ budeลก dostรกvaลฅ upozornenia o novรฝch prelezoch. Staฤรญ kliknรบลฅ na Dennรญฤek tvojho kamoลกa a budeลก automaticky vidieลฅ, ktorรฉ prelezy mรก zaznamenanรฉ ako poslednรฉ. Tรกto istรก moลพnosลฅ je aj pri sekcii oblasti, kde sa dรก dokonca vybraลฅ obtiaลพnosลฅ, ktorรบ chceลก sledovaลฅ. Na obrรกzku je znรกzornenรฉ, kde presne staฤรญ kliknรบลฅ, aby si si mohol "Pridaลฅ k Priateฤพom" Adama Ondru a sledovaลฅ jeho najnovลกie prelezy. Pre zaujรญmavosลฅ, jeho Dennรญฤek mรก uลพ viac ako 1 miliรณn pozretรญ a Adamov Instagram, ktorรฝ sa tieลพ oplatรญ pozrieลฅ, mรก cez 51 000 followerov.