NEWS

8c+ by Jorge Diaz-Rullo (17)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done Palestina 8c+ (9a) in Cuenca, which is the second route of the grade for the 17-year-old. "What a Christmas gift! Today I was able to send Palestina, turning into my hardest redpoint to date. Six days and eleven tries, where I really was mindset struggled, feeling keen and psyched looking the route so close and far at the same time. But what I really enjoyed was this process until I did it."

ล peciรกlne trรฉningovรฉ tรฝลพdne s Adamom Ondrom, Patxi Usobiagom a Hazel Findlay
Rockbusters pozรฝvajรบ na exkluzรญvne trรฉningovรฉ sรบstredenie v ลกpanielskych oblastiach Siurana a Margalef, kde tvojimi trรฉnermi budรบ Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra a lezeckรฝ fyzioterapeut Pablo Scorza. Prvรฉ dva dni budรบ v Patxiho rรฉลพii, kedy bude predstavovaลฅ svoju PUC trรฉningovรบ metรณdu, zamieria sa na silovรบ prรญpravu v hale a zanalyzuje tvoje silnรฉ a slabรฉ lezeckรฉ stรกnky. Nasledujรบce dva dni Adam, za pouลพitia prezentรกciรญ a aj priamo na skalรกch predstavรญ teรณriu a prax lezenia na On Sight a nacviฤovania ciest, priฤom budeลก maลฅ moลพnosลฅ otestovaลฅ svoje limity, pozrieลฅ si svoje pokusy na videu a poradiลฅ sa priamo s Adamom o prรญpadnom zlepลกenรญ. Poslednรฉ dni sรบstredenia sa budรบ niesลฅ v duchu prevencie zranenรญ a funkฤnej biomechaniky - teda zlepลกenia koordinรกcie, flexibility, ale aj sily a vytrvalosti z hฤพadiska fyziolรณgie. "ฤŒo oฤakรกvaลฅ? Veฤพa lezenia so zameranรญm na stratรฉgiu a spรดsob, akรฝm sa ฤlovek stavia v lezeniu. A akรฝ je cieฤพ? Preliezลฅ na prvรฝ raz cestu, ktorรก je nad tvojim zvyฤajnรฝm levelom. Okrem mnoลพstva teoretickej aj praktickej prรญpravy s Adamom, Patxim a Pablom zaลพijeลก aj kopu tradiฤnej zรกbavy s Rockbusters!" Sรบstredenie sa zaฤรญna 11. marca, trvรก jeden tรฝลพdeลˆ a stojรญ 1590โ‚ฌ. V cene je preprava, ubytovanie, lezeckรฝ materiรกl a vลกetok ฤas s trรฉnermi a inลกtruktormi. Tรฝลพdeลˆ predtรฝm Rockbusters organizujรบ podobnรฉ sรบstredenie zameranรฉ na mentรกlny trรฉning, teda ako zvlรกdaลฅ stres pred a poฤas lezenia a pripraviลฅ hlavu na prelezy, s Hazel Findlay.

8c OS by Patxi Usobiaga
25 December 2016

8c OS by Patxi Usobiaga

Patxi Usobiaga reports on Facebook that he has onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. Patxi is one of the most accomplished climbers in history, with the first 8c+ onsight and victories in both overall world cup and world championships. "So happy to have on sighted Fish Eye 8c , after almost 7 years I got it!"

8C 2nd day by Martin Strรกnรญk
Martin Strรกnรญk has done a quick two day ascent of Chris Sharma's Catalรกn Witness the Fitness 8C in Cova de ocell. "Yees, was it a long project in my head, made a quick trip here and did it in two days! Am I super fit right now or is it super easy? Totally my style, but really not hardest problem of this the year, happy Christmas!" In the first World Cup his year, the 26-year-old was #2 and overall he finished #7. In 2007, the Czech was the runner up in the World Championship being just 17 years old.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Hopefully this year has been full of good climbing and successful trips to beautiful crags and we wish you strong motivation into completing new challenges in 2017. The traffic on 8a has increased by 20% last year and more than 5000 new members have registered on the website. There are now approximately 64 000 members who have recorded over 4 million ascents into their Tick Lists, including some of the best climbs and climbers in the world. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

First 8C by Nicholas Milburn
Nicholas Milburn, who previously has done four 8B's, has done Daniel Woods' Paint in Black 8C in RMNP. "SO GOOD!!! Not sure what grade I should take, so I'll just go with consensus. Other than that death crimp hold this boulder is perfect." Picture from 2014, when he was #10 in the Youth Lead World Championship. This year he was #33 in the Vail Boulder World Cup.

8A (+) flash by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has flashed Rhino in Hueco Tanks giving it a personal 8A grade. During the last month, the runner up in the World Championships 2014 has done eight 8A to 8B Boulders. The amazing story is that she had spinal surgery in June and she was not allowed to do anything with her arms for almost three months. Photo (c) Joel Zerr - Alex doing Terre de Sienne 8B last week.

Veselรฉ Vianoce a ลกลฅastnรฝ Novรฝ rok!
Dรบfame, ลพe bol tento rok pre vรกs vลกetkรฝch plnรฝ dobrรฉho lezenia a vรฝjazdov do parรกdnych oblastรญ a do toho budรบceho ลพelรกme ฤรญm viac motivรกcie na zdolรกvanie novรฝch vรฝziev! Na 8a nรกm poฤas minulรฉho roka stรบpla nรกvลกtevnosลฅ o 20% a pridalo sa 5000 novรฝch ฤlenov. Momentรกlne mรก naลกa komunita skoro 64 tisรญc ฤlenov vrรกtane poprednรฝch svetovรฝch lezcov, ktorรญ vo svojich Dennรญฤkoch dokopy zaznamenali viac ako 4 miliรณny prelezov. Veselรฉ Vianoce a ลกลฅastnรฝ Novรฝ rok ลพelรก 8a.nu!

Nรกvrh zoznamu najlepลกรญch lezcov roku 2016. Komentรกre a nรกzory sรบ ลพiadanรฉ a vรญtanรฉ! Tak ako predchรกdzajรบce roky, aj tento rok je zoznam zaloลพenรฝ na vรฝkonoch v ลกportovom lezenรญ, priฤom vรคฤลกรญ kredit dostali tรญ, ktorรญ robili viac prvovรฝstupov (FA) a boli รบspeลกnรญ vo viacerรฝch disciplรญnach. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Ashima Shiraishi USA 4. Domen Skofic SLO 5. Alex Megos GER 6. Anak Verhoeven BEL 7. Nalle Hukkataival 8. Jain Kim 9. Jakob Schubert 10. Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Stefano Ghisolfi, Alex Puccio, Megan Mascarenas, Melissa Le Neve, James Webb, Alexey Rubtsov, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Laura Rogara, Jonathan Siegrist, Ryuichi Murai, Paul Robinson, Shauna Coxsey, Seb Bouin, Chris Sharma, Karoline Sinnhuber, Isabelle Faus, Romain Desgranges, Dani Andrada, Margo Hayes, Edu Marin, Sebastian Halenke, Jessica Pilz, Kokoro Fujii, Petra Klingler, Piotr Schab, Jan Hojer, David Firnenburg, Christof Rauch, Gabri Moroni, Katharina Saurwein, Martin Stranik, Miho Nonaka, Akiyo Noguchi, Gauthier Supper, Daniel Fuertes, Mathieu Bouyoud, Toshi Takeuchi, Michaela Kiersch, Carlo Traversi, Angela Eiter, Nina Caprez

Kruhy - dobrรฝ spรดsob pre deti, ako zaฤaลฅ s lezenรญm
I keฤ je nรกลก letnรฝ dom len 10 metrov od lezeckej oblasti pre zaฤiatoฤnรญkov s cca 70 cestami, naลกe deckรก lezรบ veฤพmi mรกlo. Skรดr ich bavรญ maฤพovanie na skaly alebo chcรบ, aby sme ich ลฅahali hore. Tรบto jesen sme kรบpili kruhy na cviฤenie a zavesili sme ich pod schody a odvtedy sa deckรก, 5 a 6 roฤnรฉ, na nich hrajรบ aspoลˆ hodinu denne. Vฤaka tomu sรบ silnejลกie a priลกli na to, ลพe lezenie na samoiste popri rodiฤoch pred tรฝm, ako sa idรบ hraลฅ na bouldrovku, je celkom zรกbava. Kruhy teda poslรบลพili ako nรกstroj na zรญskanie sily, vฤaka ktorej bolo pre deti omnoho jednoduchลกie liezลฅ aj dlhลกie cesty bez toho, aby sa vรฝrazne unavili.