NEWS

Pachamama 9a+ Ondrรกtรณl รฉs รบton a kรถvetkezล‘ megaprojรณ
Adam Ondraposztolta Instagramjรกn, hogy lekรผldte a nehรฉz 9a+ -ba sorolhatรณ Pachamama-t, amit Sharma nyitott mรฉg 2009-ben รฉs azรณta is tudtommal csak ketten tudtรกk ismรฉtelni. Az egyik Ramon Julian volt, azon a hรญres nevezetes megล‘rรผlล‘s hetรฉben, amikor nรฉgy 9a feletti utat csลฑrt le Olianan. A mรกsik ismรฉtlล‘ Sachi Amma volt, aki รฉlete รบtjรกnak tartotta, 14nap melรณt tรฉve a megmรกszรกsba kรฉt รฉv alatt. "The best route in my life." -รญgy a komment. Adam To do List-jรฉn most a Chris รกltal nyitott megaprojekt variรกns szerepel, ami a Papichulo รฉs Pachamama รถsszekรถtรฉse 9b - 9b+ lehetsรฉges fokozattal. Adam instรกjรกn panaszkodott, hogy kiesett a megmentล‘ kancsรณk elล‘tt a legvรฉgรฉn รฉs tรถbbet kellett a Pachamama-val foglalkoznia mint tervezte korรกbban, "de legalรกbb be fog รฉpรผlni a projรณra, aminek ugyanez a vรฉge." Photo: Petr Piechowicz

The stats presented below are based on more than 3 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing shoes 2017. The results are almost identical in comparison to the last years. In brackets, you have the 2016 results. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (Ocun often mentioned) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

The results shown are based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing Rope 2017. We can see that Edelrid have strengthened their position. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

4 February 2017

Best Crash Pad 2017

Based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Crash Pad 2017. In comparison to last year, we can see that Organic have strengthened their position. 27% Organic (22) 14% Ocun (15) 11% Black Diamond (14) 9% Moon (10) 8% Other (8) (Asana most mentioned) 5% Metolius (3), 5 % Pad (5), 5 % Edelrid (4) 4% Snap (4), 4 % Petzl (5), 4 % Mad Rock (4) 3% Mammut (3)

On Bouldering reports that Sean McColl and Daniel Woods (9 times champion) did not make it into the Top-20 semifinal in the USA Nationals. Alexey Rubtsov and Ashima Shiraishi won the qualifications. There were 118 males competing in one group meaning that some had to stay more than 9 hours in Iso. Semi live streaming starts at 9.50 UTC -7, 5.50 Euro time.

9a+ by Adam Ondra on the way to a harder project
Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. Photo: Petr Piechowicz "Next on the list is an amazing linkup bolted by Chris Sharma of Papichulo and Pachamama," which Adam says could be 9b hard or even 9b+. In total, the Lead World Champion of the last two years has done 43 routes 9a+ and harder. In the three last Boulder World Championships, he got one gold and two silver medals. The big question for 2017 is whether the Czech is going for the Olympics or not.

9a again by Piotr Schab during a surreal day in Santa Linya
Piotr Schab has done his eighth 9a, Ciudad dos Dios in Santa Linya. "SURREAL DAY! I wanted to optimize the betas, but stuck the crux and somehow managed to finish the route. 3rd go, can't believe it!" Before the big send, Piotr had done one 8c (+) on his second go and an 8c as the plan was to do just an endurance training due to rather poor conditions! In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old Pole is #3.

First Round First Minute 9b by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi has, after some weeks and three rest days caused by rain and poor conditions, done his second 9b, First Round First Minute 9b in Margalef. (c) Paolo Sartori Photo "Dream route! First ascent by Chris Sharma in 2011 and than repeated by Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. One of the coolest line ever, I remember at the beginning every single move was super hard, and know everything is linked! Thanks Alex Megos for the belay and Sara for the support! video coming soon!" Stefano is #2 in the 8a ranking game and we can see that he has had nine years of straight progress in his scorecard trend diagram. In 2016, the Italian was #4 in the Lead World Cup, having won one event. EpicTV video profile presentation.