NEWS

2nd ascent of La Teorรญa del Todo 8C (+) by Rubรฉn Dรญaz in Albarracรญn
Rubรฉn Dรญaz has done the 2nd ascent of La Teorรญa del Todo 8C (8C+), Ivรกn Luengo's problem of which Alberto Rocasolano did the FA, calling it an 8C+, which was was the Spaniard's first suggestion of this grade. (C) Ivรกn Luengo Rubรฉn says: "Don't know what an 8C+ is and that's why I think it's a solid 8C." Note that Beto has repeated all the 8C proposals in Spain, including even Crisis, Nacho Sรกnchez's 8C/8C+ in Crevillente.

8B flash by Beto Rocasolano in La Pedriza
Yesterday Beto Rocasolano did his first 8B flash, Pin y Pon, an old project of which Nacho Sรกnchez did the FA and which had remained unrepeated since then. (c) Israel Olcina He wrote on Instagram: Today the planets where aligned and accompanied by my sensei Israel Olcina could flash Pin y Pon 8B and then Gorila 8A+(8A)". FA video by Nacho Sรกnchez to be watched here.

Po sรบฤte viac ako 3000 hlasov mรดลพeme odprezentovaลฅ, akรก je podฤพa vรกs najepลกia voฤพba lezeฤky pre rok 2017. Tieto vรฝsledky sa skoro na chlp zhodujรบ s vรฝsledkami z predchรกdzajรบceho roku. ฤŒรญsla z roku 2016 sรบ uvedenรฉ v zรกtvorkรกch. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (ฤŒasto zmieลˆovanรฝ bol Ocรบn) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

Vรฝsledky hlasovania o najlepลกie lano pre rok 2017. Oproti minulรฉmu roku si najviac polepลกil Edelrid. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

Adam Ondra preliezol v Oliane 9a+ a chystรก sa na ลฅaลพลกie projekty
Adam Ondra oznรกmil na Instagrame, ลพe sa mu podarilo preliezลฅ cestu Pachamama 9a+ v Oliane. Photo: Petr Piechowicz "ฤŽalลกรญm na zozname je parรกdne spojenie ciest Papichulo a Pachamama, ktorรฉ navล•tal Chris Sharma..." hovorรญ Adam a dodรกva, ลพe obtiaลพnosลฅou by to mohlo byลฅ 9b, moลพno aj 9b+. Adam drลพรญ titul svetovรฉho ลกampiรณna na obtiaลพnosลฅ uลพ dva roky po sebe a za svoju kariรฉru vyliezol 43 ciest obtiaลพnosti 9a+ a ลฅaลพลกie. Na majstrovstvรกch sveta v boulderingu zรญskal dvakrรกt striebro a raz zlato. ฤŒi mรก Adam olympijskรฉ plรกny zatiaฤพ nevieme. Spolu s Adamom je v ลกpanielsku aj mladรฝ slovenskรฝ borec Tomรกลก Plevko a sme zvedavรญ, ako sa mu zadarรญ. Drลพรญme palce!

Hukkataival 9A boulderรฉben 4 000 prรณba van!!!
Outside online magazin csapatta kรฉszรญtett egy szuper interjรบt Nallรฉval aki az elmรบlt รฉv legnagyobb fล‘hล‘se lett a 9A boulder megyitรกssal, Burden of Dreams-el. Nemrรฉg a 8a.nu szavazรกst is indรญtott arrรณl, mi volt a legnagyobb รกttรถrรฉs a tavalyi รฉvben รฉs Ondra egyhetes Dawn Wall projektje, ami a vilรกg legnehezebb 9a nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ nagyfalas รบtja - bizony bizony csak a mรกsodik helyre volt elรฉg. Mert bizony az, hogy Nalle รบj fokozatot nyitott a boulderezรฉsben; a legendรกs 9A boulder fokozatot (V17) az nem csak egy eszmรฉletlen mรฉrfรถldkล‘, hanem egyben egy pont is (mit pont felkiรกltรณjel!!!) annak a vitรกnak a vรฉgรฉn, hogy egyรกltalรกn lรฉtezhet-e a 8C+ os boulder fokozat. ร‰vekig ment a huzavona, a fel-le fokozgatรกs รฉs รญme itt a boulder feketรฉn-fehรฉren, amit Nalle tรถbb mint nรฉgyezerszer prรณbรกlt meg (4000!) tรถbb รฉv alatt. Hรกt kรญvรกncsian vรกrjuk a kisfilmet, mely Februรกr 8.-รกn dobรณdik piacra. 2010 Mรกrciusรกban รญrt egy elรฉg provokatรญv bejegyzรฉst a szemรฉlyes blogjรกn a tรบlzรกsokrรณl รฉs az รบj boulderfokozatok kรฉsล‘bbi lefokozรกsรกrรณl: "Mi mind dobรกlรณzunk a nagy fokozatokkal รฉs szรฉp flash szรกmokkal, ezรฉrt kapunk a magazinon cรญmlapot รฉs aztรกn vรฉgignรฉzzรผk, hogy nรฉhรกny hรณnappal kรฉsล‘bb a bouldereink mind lefokozรณdnak..."

Pachamama 9a+ Ondrรกtรณl รฉs รบton a kรถvetkezล‘ megaprojรณ
Adam Ondraposztolta Instagramjรกn, hogy lekรผldte a nehรฉz 9a+ -ba sorolhatรณ Pachamama-t, amit Sharma nyitott mรฉg 2009-ben รฉs azรณta is tudtommal csak ketten tudtรกk ismรฉtelni. Az egyik Ramon Julian volt, azon a hรญres nevezetes megล‘rรผlล‘s hetรฉben, amikor nรฉgy 9a feletti utat csลฑrt le Olianan. A mรกsik ismรฉtlล‘ Sachi Amma volt, aki รฉlete รบtjรกnak tartotta, 14nap melรณt tรฉve a megmรกszรกsba kรฉt รฉv alatt. "The best route in my life." -รญgy a komment. Adam To do List-jรฉn most a Chris รกltal nyitott megaprojekt variรกns szerepel, ami a Papichulo รฉs Pachamama รถsszekรถtรฉse 9b - 9b+ lehetsรฉges fokozattal. Adam instรกjรกn panaszkodott, hogy kiesett a megmentล‘ kancsรณk elล‘tt a legvรฉgรฉn รฉs tรถbbet kellett a Pachamama-val foglalkoznia mint tervezte korรกbban, "de legalรกbb be fog รฉpรผlni a projรณra, aminek ugyanez a vรฉge." Photo: Petr Piechowicz

The stats presented below are based on more than 3 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing shoes 2017. The results are almost identical in comparison to the last years. In brackets, you have the 2016 results. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (Ocun often mentioned) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

The results shown are based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing Rope 2017. We can see that Edelrid have strengthened their position. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

4 February 2017

Best Crash Pad 2017

Based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Crash Pad 2017. In comparison to last year, we can see that Organic have strengthened their position. 27% Organic (22) 14% Ocun (15) 11% Black Diamond (14) 9% Moon (10) 8% Other (8) (Asana most mentioned) 5% Metolius (3), 5 % Pad (5), 5 % Edelrid (4) 4% Snap (4), 4 % Petzl (5), 4 % Mad Rock (4) 3% Mammut (3)