NEWS

The results shown are based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing Rope 2017. We can see that Edelrid have strengthened their position. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

4 February 2017

Best Crash Pad 2017

Based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Crash Pad 2017. In comparison to last year, we can see that Organic have strengthened their position. 27% Organic (22) 14% Ocun (15) 11% Black Diamond (14) 9% Moon (10) 8% Other (8) (Asana most mentioned) 5% Metolius (3), 5 % Pad (5), 5 % Edelrid (4) 4% Snap (4), 4 % Petzl (5), 4 % Mad Rock (4) 3% Mammut (3)

9a+ by Adam Ondra on the way to a harder project
Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. Photo: Petr Piechowicz "Next on the list is an amazing linkup bolted by Chris Sharma of Papichulo and Pachamama," which Adam says could be 9b hard or even 9b+. In total, the Lead World Champion of the last two years has done 43 routes 9a+ and harder. In the three last Boulder World Championships, he got one gold and two silver medals. The big question for 2017 is whether the Czech is going for the Olympics or not.

Vรฝsledky hlasovania o najlepลกie lano pre rok 2017. Oproti minulรฉmu roku si najviac polepลกil Edelrid. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

Hukkataival 9A boulderรฉben 4 000 prรณba van!!!
Outside online magazin csapatta kรฉszรญtett egy szuper interjรบt Nallรฉval aki az elmรบlt รฉv legnagyobb fล‘hล‘se lett a 9A boulder megyitรกssal, Burden of Dreams-el. Nemrรฉg a 8a.nu szavazรกst is indรญtott arrรณl, mi volt a legnagyobb รกttรถrรฉs a tavalyi รฉvben รฉs Ondra egyhetes Dawn Wall projektje, ami a vilรกg legnehezebb 9a nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ nagyfalas รบtja - bizony bizony csak a mรกsodik helyre volt elรฉg. Mert bizony az, hogy Nalle รบj fokozatot nyitott a boulderezรฉsben; a legendรกs 9A boulder fokozatot (V17) az nem csak egy eszmรฉletlen mรฉrfรถldkล‘, hanem egyben egy pont is (mit pont felkiรกltรณjel!!!) annak a vitรกnak a vรฉgรฉn, hogy egyรกltalรกn lรฉtezhet-e a 8C+ os boulder fokozat. ร‰vekig ment a huzavona, a fel-le fokozgatรกs รฉs รญme itt a boulder feketรฉn-fehรฉren, amit Nalle tรถbb mint nรฉgyezerszer prรณbรกlt meg (4000!) tรถbb รฉv alatt. Hรกt kรญvรกncsian vรกrjuk a kisfilmet, mely Februรกr 8.-รกn dobรณdik piacra. 2010 Mรกrciusรกban รญrt egy elรฉg provokatรญv bejegyzรฉst a szemรฉlyes blogjรกn a tรบlzรกsokrรณl รฉs az รบj boulderfokozatok kรฉsล‘bbi lefokozรกsรกrรณl: "Mi mind dobรกlรณzunk a nagy fokozatokkal รฉs szรฉp flash szรกmokkal, ezรฉrt kapunk a magazinon cรญmlapot รฉs aztรกn vรฉgignรฉzzรผk, hogy nรฉhรกny hรณnappal kรฉsล‘bb a bouldereink mind lefokozรณdnak..."

9a again by Piotr Schab during a surreal day in Santa Linya
Piotr Schab has done his eighth 9a, Ciudad dos Dios in Santa Linya. "SURREAL DAY! I wanted to optimize the betas, but stuck the crux and somehow managed to finish the route. 3rd go, can't believe it!" Before the big send, Piotr had done one 8c (+) on his second go and an 8c as the plan was to do just an endurance training due to rather poor conditions! In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old Pole is #3.

First Round First Minute 9b by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi has, after some weeks and three rest days caused by rain and poor conditions, done his second 9b, First Round First Minute 9b in Margalef. (c) Paolo Sartori Photo "Dream route! First ascent by Chris Sharma in 2011 and than repeated by Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. One of the coolest line ever, I remember at the beginning every single move was super hard, and know everything is linked! Thanks Alex Megos for the belay and Sara for the support! video coming soon!" Stefano is #2 in the 8a ranking game and we can see that he has had nine years of straight progress in his scorecard trend diagram. In 2016, the Italian was #4 in the Lead World Cup, having won one event. EpicTV video profile presentation.

Moritz Perwitzschky's (17) hot ascents
During the last two weeks Moritz Perwitzschky has done 20 Boulders graded 8A to 8B including the FA of Breaking Dad 8B in Frankenjura. "4 days of work and also broke out a hold but found a new one to make it possible, start of "Blutgeld", finish in "whoยดs the Daddy?", 13 hard moves in a row and really hard to link the last moves from the bottom, donยดt know how hard it is but 8b for sure..." Check out the Winter bouldering weekend video. In the Combined ranking game, the 17-year-old is #4. (c) Hannes Pablitschko "How to keep warm: Just take some warm clothes, a big down jacket, gloves and you are fine, don't forget some tea and biscuits. For keeping our Fingers warm we heat up some stones to put them in the calkbag which works quite well. Plans for 2017: I finished school last year and now taking one year off before studying for working and getting stronger. My plans are to travel to Rocklands in summer and focus more on bouldering than the previous years. Ambitions: One goal of mine is to try Action directe finally this year and hopefully send it and basically send a lot of hard and beautiful lines, both boulders and routes."

Almost a year on Kalymnos
Rannveig Aamodt has spent almost a year in Kalymnos. Here is her story about finding deep peace in the ghost town during the winer, helping refugees and more. "Iโ€™m grateful for the unexpected in Kalymnos because it led to unforgettable memories of happy people and ocean views from the crag" (c) Chris Burkard - PrAna