NEWS

This nice Font video shows a good portrait of Megan Mascarenas, #4 in the 8a ranking game, who was always in the Top-4 in the last six World Cups.

The female Combined Ranking Game
There are few climbers who perform at a high level on both routes and boulders. Here is the Top-5 Combined female ranking where Amanda Berezowski (in the picture) is #2. Last year she did her first 8b+ and during the last week, she did her first three 7C+'s. The boulder in the photo is Slow Dance in Bishop. "Climbing is my life! I started in Calgary on a competitive youth team, travel, climb and compete internationally, was part of developing the Virgin Gorda." Check her blog!

Peknรฝ lezeckรฝ video potrรฉt Megan Mascarenas z lezenia vo Fontainebleau. Tรกto americkรก lezkyลˆa je na ลกtvrtom mieste v rebrรญฤku 8a a v poslednรฝch ลกiestich kolรกch svetovรฉho pohรกra neskonฤila horลกie ako ลกtvrtรก.

ลฝenskรฝ kombinovanรฝ rebrรญฤek
V sรบลกasnosti je len mรกlo lezcov ฤi lezkรฝลˆ, ktorรญ by dosahovali ลกpiฤkovรฉ vรฝsledky v oboch lezenรญ s lanom a boulderingu. Na obrรกzku mรดลพeลก vidieลฅ Top-5 z nรกลกho 8a.nu rebrรญฤka, kde sa na druhom mieste nachรกdza Amanda Brezowska. Minulรฝ rok preliezla svoje prvรฉ 8b+ a iba poslednรฝ tรฝลพdeลˆ za jej podarilo vyliezลฅ svoje prvรฉ tri 7C+kรก. Boulder na fotke je Slow Dance v Bishope. "Lezenie je mรดj ลพivot! Zaฤala som liezลฅ v sรบลฅaลพnom juniorskom tรญme v Calgary, cestovala som, liezla a sรบลฅaลพila aj medzinรกrodne a bola som pri tom, keฤ sa rozvรญjala lezeckรก oblasลฅ Virgin Gorda." Oplatรญ sa pozrieลฅ aj jej blog!

8c by Ida Kupล› (17)
21 February 2017

8c by Ida Kupล› (17)

Ida Kupล›, who was #7 in the Boulder Youth Championship 2016, has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz tells us that in fact it was on her last day before going back to Poland. "I was on a three-week climbing trip in Spain, mostly in Santa Linya, except few sessions in Oliana, Terradets and others nearby crags. This route was my main goal so I focused especially on it. I think it was more or less 10 days of work. In 2017 I'd like to focus on bouldering comps, especially to prepare as good as I can for the WYCH in Insbruck. I plan to participate in some senior World Cups, probably Switzerland, Germany and Japan. I hope to have time for some small climbing trips outdors, mainly in Poland and maybe somewhere abroad during the summer holidays. These are my plans for now, but who knows what future will bring."

9a by Roberto Podio (36)
21 February 2017

9a by Roberto Podio (36)

Roberto Podio jumps two grades up and does his first 9a, Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga. "I started to try the route in December and the movements came naturally from the very start. I honestly thought that I would have done it in a short time but I have to admit that I had underestimated it, as you need a huge dose of concentration and endurance to do it. It is extraordinary for me to join the รจlite of people who can do the 9a, as it is an incredible emotion and this demonstrates that with the right amount of determination you can achieve everything. A special thanks to the Vertical Park gym and to all the friends who accompanied and supported me in this experience."

Kimbrough Moore has done a research on Which Climbing Companies Sponsor The Most Women?. Here is his list of top 10 out of 19 companies primarily taken into account. It interesting that all the six companies who have had banners on 8a last year are at very top of the list, written in bold. 1 Prana 45% 2 Sterling Ropes 41% 3 Mammut 38% 4 Five Ten 36% 5 Evolv 35% 6 Metolius 31% 7 Mad Rock, North Face, La Sportiva 29% 10 Black Diamond, Petzl 28% Here you can find another research showing that only some 5% of topos have been written by female.

Elล‘-tavaszi projektรกlรกs, utรณ-tรฉli megmรกszรกs
Az elsล‘ "kรถteles" autรณk cรฉloztรกk meg a melegebb idล‘ remรฉnyรฉben az Isztriรกt. Jellemzล‘en az elsล‘ tรบrรกk a teremkiszabadulรกs fรฉnyรฉben zajlanak, ez leginkรกbb mรฉtermรกszรกst รฉs on-sightolรกst jelent a tรถbbsรฉgnek. Nem รบgy Bajusz Balรกzsnak, aki bezsebelte az elsล‘ idei Magyar 8a-t, negyedik kรถztestล‘l fรถldig zakรณ ide, fรกjรณ ujjak oda.. a 7c on-sight รฉs a 8a second go รบgy lรกtszik be van gyรบrva. A Ledeno Doba, Medveja-i 8a esett el. De ร‰szakabbra is szikkadรกs volt. Nagy Ferdinรกnd pรถrentett oda, a lassan mรกr sajรกt birtokรกnak mondhatรณ Spitzen, rรกadรกsul nem is akรกrhogy! Nรกndi kรฉt 8A+ bรผntetett le egy nap alatt a Mandela รฉs a Bรผdรถs Patkรกny nevลฑ bouldereket. Utรณbbinak egyรฉbkรฉnt ez volt az elsล‘ ismรฉtlรฉse. Szรกmos projektet รฉs FA-t kerget jelenleg is Nรกndi - remรฉljรผk beรฉrnek mรฉg tavaszig a vadak.

21 February 2017

Anchor grabbing ethics

"Can you record a route where you grabbed the anchor?" If you grab an anchor, you do the route artificially and you should not record it. In general this also means that the anchor is misplaced and you can add a variation of the route with a lower grade if you just reached the clipping position. Climbing accomplishments should be about doing sequences and not jumping to anchors or reaching high up to clip a misplaced anchor.

Seb Bouin has done 21 routes 9a and harder. Even so, the silent crusher is not very well-known. In the video he explains his climbing vision, why and how he does this sport.