NEWS

8c Again by Alberto Gines (14)
Alberto Gines has done his second 8c, Entre tus Piernas in La Muela. In the 8a ranking game he is #2 among the 14 year olds. "I have been climbing since I was 3 years old, but I started to climb seriously at 6, and I started training with David Maciร  4 years ago. I train 4 days a week and the on the weekend often I go to climb on rock. This year I want to win the Spanish climbing cup and some international competitions and do my first 8a+ onsight and more 8c's.

Lezeckรฉ steny rastรบ ako huby po daลพdi
The Techno Creativesje globรกlnou agentรบrou pracujรบcou v automobilovom priemysle. Aby udrลพali svojich zamestnancov v kondรญcii a boli atraktรญvnym zamestnรกvateฤพom, vybudovala si tรกto spoloฤnosลฅ vo svojich priestoroch malรบ lezeckรบ stenu. Nie sรบ vลกak jedinรญ, uลพ sme takรฝchto prรญbehov poฤuli niekoฤพko z viacerรฝch kรบtov sveta. Evolรบcia lezeckรฝch stien naberรก na obrรกtkach a to sme eลกte len na zaฤiatku. Na stene Techno Creative takisto ponรบkajรบ zapoลพiฤanie materiรกlu zadarmo, takลพe keฤ sa ich zamestnanci rozhodnรบ skรบsiลฅ lezenie vonku, mali by byลฅ dostatoฤne pripravenรญ.

Lezenie ako povinnรก sรบฤasลฅ vyuฤovania pre 3000 ลพiakov v Brunicu
Brunico v Juลพnom Tyrolsku mรก pribliลพne 20 000 obyvateฤพov. V roku 2015 mestskรก sprรกva otvorila 8.5 miliรณnovรบ halu, ktorรบ riadi Alpenverein Sรผdtirol, s jedinรฝm cieฤพom: aby mohli maลฅ ลกkolรกci ako povinnรบ sรบฤasลฅ telesnej vรฝchovy lezenie. Kaลพdรฝch 6 tรฝลพdลˆov majรบ ลกtudenti od 9 do 17 rokov spolu s uฤiteฤพmi dve hodiny lezeckรฝch kurzov. Neskรดr prinesieme informรกcie o tom, ako sa tento systรฉm osvedฤil v praxi. Na obrรกzku je za ฤพavou stenou schovanรก 20 metrov ลกirokรก a 18 metrov vysokรก outdoorovรก lezeckรก stena. Eลกte lepลกou sprรกvou je, ลพe je otvorenรก 93.5 hodรญn do tรฝลพdลˆa! ฤŽalลกia trojmiliรณnovรก lezeckรก hala sa nachรกdza asi 30 minรบt cesty autom v meste Brixen s cca 25 000 obyvateฤพmi, no tu eลกte lezenie nie je povinnรฉ. Zaujรญmavosลฅou je, ลพe v regiรณne Juลพnรฉ Tyrolsko ลพije pribliลพne 500 000 ฤพudรญ a 12% z nich sรบ ฤlenmi Alpenverein!

Toshi Takeuchi tells us about the new Japanese hard core 90 minute video where he, Ryuichi Murai and Daisuke Ichimiya are featured. They are all in Top-4 in the ranking game. "Mizugaki 160 km from Tokyo and Toyota 300 km away are my favorites. I think, maybe best way to start a trip to Japan is go to one famous climbing gym first like Rocky, PUMP or Basecamp. They have a lot of information about many crags and some people can speak English. PUMP also has all guidebooks which are filled with pictures and maps so that you can figure out how to make it to the crag and boulders."

8c+ FA by Mumin Karabas in Turkey again
Mumin Karabas, who did the first 8c+ in Turkey, has done the ten year old project Karma Sutra 8c+ in Geyik Bayฤฑrฤฑ. "I struggled for 10 climbing days to figure out beta, and the other 10 climbing days for actually doing it. The route is very bouldery, there's 25 moves without chalking or resting." Mumin also reports that there are more than 50 % less climbers this winter season. "As you know the situation in Turkey...Not many foreigners are coming to Turkey for climbing. People are afraid... but there's a beautiful blue sky today and great season for climbing :)))"

Fourth 8c+ in RRG by Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch has done her fourth 8c+ in Red River Gorge the last year, 24 Carat, which took some 4-5 weekends. The full time university student, who plans to graduate this year, seems to every other weekend make the seven hour trip from Chicago to challenge some of the best sand stone routes in the world. (c) Leslay Ladlad "So excited to finally put this one away!!!! It was a rollercoaster of emotions between falling low and falling high. I try to take it in stride but it's not always easy to remain open minded. Every climb is a learning experience, and in the end it was the go that started with Mariah Carey that got me to the top!"

Paul Robinson upgrades to 8B+
Paul Robinson has done House of Doom in Hueco Tanks suggesting an upgrade to 8B+ of this problem Daniel Woods put up in 2011. "Great addition Daniel! This thing is so much harder than any other 8B+ on the mountain!" It is very important to have guys like Paul Robinson and Adam Ondra who actually dare to upgrade. There are so many super lines waiting to get more traffic if just somebody would care to upgrade them.

Pioneering the Uncharted life is our Lifestyle
Paul Robinson presents the Uncharted lines quality film about being a pioneer and his lifestyle which he shares with guys like Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma and Niky Ceria, featured in the one hour film. Jimmy Webb gets the last word and sums up, "Once it is done, you are satisfied for just that moment, just that small amount of time and shortly after, you find yourself thinking, - That was sick but what is next! And that is just how we are, what we do. I don't think that will ever change."

Felipe Camargo won USD 35 000 on Netflix Beastmaster
Felipe Camargo won among 108 challengers from Brazil, Usa, Mexico, Japan, Korea, Germany the Netflix Ultimate Beastmaster. The prize was USD 35,000! "It was pretty cool! I won the show and the final was together with a Korean who is ex world champion in ice climbing!!" In 2007, the Brazilian was #27 in the Lead World Champion when he was 16 years old. Later he has done three 9a's and also two 8C boulders. He is also one of the guys that have put up many hard core routes and boulders in Brazil.

Ki a fene az a Jim Holloway? โ€“ egy morzsรกnyi tรถrtรฉnelem 1.rรฉsz
Pรกr hete egy Bubb Feri telefon kapcsรกn merรผlt fel a tรฉma, magam is meglepล‘dtem โ€“ mennyire kikerรผlt ez az รšr a mรกszรณ tรถrtรฉnelembล‘l, pedig igazรกn รฉrdemes lenne pรกr szรณban megemlรญteni. รšgy lรกtszik John Gill รกrnyรฉkรกban sajnos szรกmos kemรฉny arc elfelejtล‘dรถtt. Az ล‘ tรถrtรฉnete azรฉrt kรผlรถnรถs, mert 1975-ben (tรถbb mint 40 รฉvvel ezelล‘tt!) megnyitotta elvileg az elsล‘ 8A+ bouldert a vilรกgon (Trice), melyet aztรกn majdnem 30 รฉvig nem tudott megismรฉtelni senki. Hogy ez az รบt jellegรฉnek vagy Jim 193cm magassรกgรกnak kรถszรถnhetล‘ azt nem tudni, mindenesetre a helyiek elmondรกsaibรณl fogalommรก vรกltak a Holloway boulderek. A nehรฉzsรฉgi fokok besorolรกsรกra sajรกtos nehรฉzsรฉgi skรกlรกt hozott lรฉtre; (JHE โ€“ Jim Holloway Easy, JHM โ€“ medium รฉs JHH โ€“ hard). A Trice nevลฑ bouldert Coloradoban vรฉgรผl Carlo Traversi ismรฉtelte elsล‘kรฉnt 2007-ben รฉs fokozta be az amerikai V12 fokozatba (8A+). A mรกsik nagy vad a mรฉg kevรฉsbรฉ ismรฉtelt Slapshot ami 77-ben szรผletett รฉs az emlegetett fokozata csak azรฉrt lett 8A+, mert ez is a hรญres Holloway hรกrmasba tartozott. Kรฉsล‘bb szรกmos fogรกsmorzsolรณdรกs kรถvetkezett be, de az รบt jelenlegi 8B-re titulรกlt fokozata mรฉg megerล‘sรญtรฉsre vรกr. Az รถreg termรฉszetesen ezeket a bouldereit chraspadek nรฉlkรผl mรกszta, ami mรฉg egy fokot emel az old schoolba minล‘sรญtรฉsen. Vรฉgรผl a mรกszรกssal felhagyva emberรผnk bicikliversenyzล‘ lett, de Coloradoban mรกig ott az a tรถbb szรกz V3-V8 boulder โ€“ amit fennhagyott az utรณkor szรกmรกra. ร‰rdekes cikk az alรกbbi linken.