Eddie Fowke z The Circuit Climbing spravil s Margo Hayes interview ešte počas prvého dňa skúšania La Rambly a tu je výsledok. Margo sa chystá do Októbra pobudnúť vo Francúzsku a jej cieľom je zúčastniť sa väčšiny závodov svetového pohára. Prikladáme aj jej 8a denníček, v ktorom si v súčte zapísala 91 prelezov do obtiažnosti 9a. Čo sa týka bouldov, táto devätnásťročná američanka má na konte tri 8Ačka a prvé z nich preliezla, keď mala len trinásť. Minulý rok vyhrala na Majstrovstvách sveta tri zlaté medaily.

IFSC is about to take decision in regards to the Olympic format this weekend and here are the 8a thoughts which focus on the following: that the Speed route should vary, be steeper and include four lanes. 1. The Speed world record holder, Danyl Boldyrev, has told 8a he thinks the fixed route is boring. 2. There are only a dozen certified world record walls in the world 3. The Paris World Championship wall did not get certified 4. Most potential athletes live many hours from nearest Speed wall 5. Gym owners do not want rebuild their walls 6. We should not make kids (slow) speed climbing robots 7. Six second spectacle is too little On the other side, the current 6b+ route is too difficult for the youngest athletes and in fact harder for shorter kids. Even in world champions, runs over 15 seconds are normal and the fixed route setting excludes the average young climber to speed climb. In some countries they have actually added holds in order to let the youngest reach the top. IOC has said that the best must participate and ultimately, if we will make it to the 2024, Ondra needs to participate. A steeper route is longer, looks more impressive and is less about leg muscles. It will also need less invested time for Ondra etc to get a high level which makes him more interested to participate. Solution 10 - 18 meters high 0 - 4 meters overhanging 7a difficulty down to 5a for kids Up to 10 meters (four lanes) wide Normal route setting In regards the Combined format, 8a suggest that first all 20 athletes will do one run of Lead, Boulder and Speed. Then calculate the Top-8 and do one more run. As an option, the Top-4 can then compete with semi and finals in a Duel to decide the podium. Adam Ondra has said he thinks the 8a Olympic solution is "reasonable in terms of fairness" besides the Duel.

The Olympic 2020 has not been set yet and most have not yet decided if they want to go for the big Tokyo challenge. Anyhow, here is a prediction of Top-6. What we should bare in mind is that it will be very hard for any 25+ climber to adopt to the new Speed technique. Accordingly, many youngsters have been listed. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Adam Ondra CZE 2. Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sean McColl CAN 3. Margo Hayes USA - Domen Skofic SLO 4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS - Jakob Schubert AUT 5. Brooke Raboutou - Kokora Fujii JPN 6. Akiyo Noguchi JPN - Tomoa Narasaki JPN

Jernej Kruder has taken some days off from his training preparation for the Boulder WC and done Catalan Witness the Fitness 8C and Bi Herre, Borroka Bat 9a in La Cueva de l'ocell. (c) Greg Mionske "It was unbelievable! Doing a 9a route and 8C boulder in two days is just something wonderful." The Slovenian, is one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world and he is #2 in the 8a combined ranking game. In 2014, he was #2 in the Boulder World Champion and last year he did Es Pontas 9a+, beside also doing hard core MPs. "My training program is simple and it only contains power endurance, mainly 15 moves circles. I just enjoy climbing....I don't bother with my goals too much...so I'm just working on my power endurance which I think it gives me the best progression."

More or less every climbing gym have some auto-belays and in many ways they are God's gift to the climbers. The dilemma is of course that you very quickly run out of challenges but then you can go rainbow. If there are two routes that are too hard, just combine them and it is also possible to add one more color for your feet. There are endless rainbow possibilities. Other challenges can be to do routes without any colored foot holds or by just using one of your feet or even one of your hands. The more different and crazy routes you try or even speed climb, the more diversified climber you will become. Long away from all the nice comfort routes the gym normally offers, which in the long run will reduce your climbing repertoire.

Barbara Zangerl one of the best female-multi discipline climbers out there has done Chikane in Siurana, which is her first 8c+. (c) Jacopo Larcher "It took me about seven days this year to do Chikane. But I had a look on that one already two years ago. At that time I felt quite far away to connect the hard moves. This year the progress was good. It took me some days to work on the moves then I had a bad fall skipping a draw. After that fall I almost did it but I had some troubles with my mind. Luckily two days later I was more self-confident and finally Chikane was kind with me and didn't kick me off again. Feels so good to enjoy simple life here in Spain and get back into sport climbing mode.

Egyszerűen asztalt csapkodva csodálkozom miért nem folyik most ez a csapból és miért nincs már elegem a szeplős amerikai csajsziból. Egyszerűen nem hagyhatom, hogy a mászótársadalom szó nélkül elmenjen -e mellett a hatalmas teljesítmény mellett. Persze lehet, hogy a kövi reelrock miatt megy a "titoktartás", de azért beszéljünk róla egy kicsit. Őszintén szólva eddig nem annyira csíptem Ninát. Azt láttam, átlagos mászóteljesítményeket nyújt, mint a világ bármely másik kontinensén élő boulderes csajok, de mivel ő a boulderezés szívében Colorado-ban él, neki valahogy könnyebb és elérhetőbb ebből az átlagos teljesítményből a megélhetés. Szép vagy és hétvégente felteszel egy muffinsütős képet az instára Puccio-val, ez elég az 5.10 szponzorációhoz. De a negatív képeim és véleményem szépen lassan elkezdett megváltozni. Először is Nina tavaly márciusban lecsűrte a Bishop-ban található Evilution-t, ami egy highball 7C+ ráadásul jó magasan a kunszttal. De erre most rátett még egy lapáttal, ugyanis ugyanezen a tömbön (ahol a Lucid Dreaming is megy) a túloldalon, első nőként mászta meg az Ambrosia 8A highball bouldert, ami a 15 méteres magasságával és korántsem kisétálós befejezésével szerintem a legkeményebb női highball boulderezések egyike. A legnehezebb megmászása egyébként a Ray of light 8B Rocklandsből. Ideje volt fejet hajtanom... Alább az egyetlen írásos forrás