NEWS

Nina Williams รฉs az Ambrosia fb. 8A highball
Egyszerลฑen asztalt csapkodva csodรกlkozom miรฉrt nem folyik most ez a csapbรณl รฉs miรฉrt nincs mรกr elegem a szeplล‘s amerikai csajszibรณl. Egyszerลฑen nem hagyhatom, hogy a mรกszรณtรกrsadalom szรณ nรฉlkรผl elmenjen -e mellett a hatalmas teljesรญtmรฉny mellett. Persze lehet, hogy a kรถvi reelrock miatt megy a "titoktartรกs", de azรฉrt beszรฉljรผnk rรณla egy kicsit. ลszintรฉn szรณlva eddig nem annyira csรญptem Ninรกt. Azt lรกttam, รกtlagos mรกszรณteljesรญtmรฉnyeket nyรบjt, mint a vilรกg bรกrmely mรกsik kontinensรฉn รฉlล‘ boulderes csajok, de mivel ล‘ a boulderezรฉs szรญvรฉben Colorado-ban รฉl, neki valahogy kรถnnyebb รฉs elรฉrhetล‘bb ebbล‘l az รกtlagos teljesรญtmรฉnybล‘l a megรฉlhetรฉs. Szรฉp vagy รฉs hรฉtvรฉgente felteszel egy muffinsรผtล‘s kรฉpet az instรกra Puccio-val, ez elรฉg az 5.10 szponzorรกciรณhoz. De a negatรญv kรฉpeim รฉs vรฉlemรฉnyem szรฉpen lassan elkezdett megvรกltozni. Elล‘szรถr is Nina tavaly mรกrciusban lecsลฑrte a Bishop-ban talรกlhatรณ Evilution-t, ami egy highball 7C+ rรกadรกsul jรณ magasan a kunszttal. De erre most rรกtett mรฉg egy lapรกttal, ugyanis ugyanezen a tรถmbรถn (ahol a Lucid Dreaming is megy) a tรบloldalon, elsล‘ nล‘kรฉnt mรกszta meg az Ambrosia 8A highball bouldert, ami a 15 mรฉteres magassรกgรกval รฉs korรกntsem kisรฉtรกlรณs befejezรฉsรฉvel szerintem a legkemรฉnyebb nล‘i highball boulderezรฉsek egyike. A legnehezebb megmรกszรกsa egyรฉbkรฉnt a Ray of light 8B Rocklandsbล‘l. Ideje volt fejet hajtanom... Alรกbb az egyetlen รญrรกsos forrรกs

8c+ by Barbara Zangerl
Barbara Zangerl one of the best female-multi discipline climbers out there has done Chikane in Siurana, which is her first 8c+. (c) Jacopo Larcher "It took me about seven days this year to do Chikane. But I had a look on that one already two years ago. At that time I felt quite far away to connect the hard moves. This year the progress was good. It took me some days to work on the moves then I had a bad fall skipping a draw. After that fall I almost did it but I had some troubles with my mind. Luckily two days later I was more self-confident and finally Chikane was kind with me and didn't kick me off again. Feels so good to enjoy simple life here in Spain and get back into sport climbing mode.

Viac-menej kaลพdรก lezeckรก hala mรก samoist. Tieto ลกikovnรฉ zariadenia sรบ v mnohรฝch ohฤพadoch darom od Boha pre lezcov. Problรฉmom vลกak je, ลพe ฤloveku rรฝchlo dรดjdu novรฉ cesty a potom nezostรกva niฤ inรฉ, ako liezลฅ starรบ znรกmu "dรบhovรบ". Ak sรบ na samoiste dve cesty, ktorรฉ sรบ pre teba prรญliลก ลฅaลพkรฉ, skรบs ich zlรบฤiลฅ, poprรญpade si pridaลฅ stupy inej farby. Pri lezenรญ dรบhovej cesty sรบ moลพnosti neobmedzenรฉ. ฤŽalลกou alternatรญvou mรดลพe byลฅ lezenie ciest bez pouลพitia dodatoฤnรฝch stupov, ฤi za pouลพitia len jednej nohy ฤi ruky. ฤŒรญm viac rozdielnych ciest vyskรบลกaลก, tรฝm rozhฤพadenejลกรญm lezcom mรดลพeลก byลฅ. Mรดลพeลก dokonca skรบsiลฅ liezลฅ cesty aj na rรฝchlosลฅ. Takรฉto metรณdy ลฅa oddialia od klasickรฝch pohodlnรฝch ciest, ktorรฉ zvyฤajne steny poskytujรบ, a ktorรฉ ti v koneฤnom dรดsledku nepomรดลพe zlepลกiลฅ si lezeckรฝ repertoรกr. Autor: Jens Larssen

As previous years, Tendon is running a competition with great prizes. This year, you can win 9 ropes during 9 weeks by doing a route in one of the 15 gyms in 9 countries.

Nyolcรกk kis รฉs nagy betลฑkkel
A hรฉtvรฉge szรกmos megmรกszรกst tartogatott magyarhonban. Kล‘-รกrokban Izer a harmadik megmรกszรกsรกt kรถnyvelhette el a Szent Pรฉter esernyล‘je 8a-รบtnak. Pรกr sor az รกtlelkesรผlt kommentbล‘l: Nincsenek szavak arra az รฉrzรฉsre amit most รฉrzek. Nagyon sok รฉv hosszรบ projektje, vรฉgtelen idล‘ ment el a bรฉta kitalรกlรกsรกra. Decemberben a kunsztot egy รผlรฉssel รกt tudtam mรกszni, de egyben nem volt esรฉly. A lรฉpรฉsek annyira kicsik voltak, hogy nem tudtam a 4 szรกmmal kisebb Pythonban megcsinรกlni, รบgyhogy a stabilabb lรฉpรฉs รฉrdekรฉben vettem egy a lรกbamnรกl 6 szรกmmal kisebb Cobrรกt. Ezt egy รฉvbe kerรผlt kitรกgรญtani(รฉs tatni kรถsz robi) รบgy hogy ne kopjon el. Ezt a napot sosem felejtem el... A vasรกrnapi esล‘ ellenรฉre a hazalรกtogatott Nรกndi nem volt tรฉtlen รฉs talรกlt is olyan holtkรณrost aki kicsรกbรญthatรณ ilyen idล‘ben is boulderezni. Egy motivรกlt csรถpรถgล‘s csapatรกs alatt Nรกndi 4. megmรกszรณja lett a Tripla รฉlvezet 8A nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ bouldernek. Edzรฉskรฉppen (รฉs a kamera kedvรฉรฉrt) megmรกszta tรถbbszรถr is, megmutatva a hitetleneknek a 8B erล‘t. Az elmรบlt hetekben is รฉrtek a babรฉrok, 8A First Ascent Spitzen a stรญlusos Burden of Dreams nรฉven, รฉs 7C flash. Nรกndinak lassan ez a standard. De kรผlfรถldรถn is tรถrtรฉntek a dolgok. A reibungos befejezรฉsekkel megbarรกtkozva Barabรกs Gรกbor megmรกszta a Thai city nevลฑ 8a-t, ami Gabo 36. 8a feletti รบtja, de ha jรณl sejtem idรฉn jelentล‘sen bล‘vรผlni fog ez a lista. Grat maan, yamannn!

Famous climbing arch in Malta collapses
The Azur window in Malta has collapsed with some 20 bolted routes in the Mediterranean. The authorities were aware of that the arch was at risk but you were still allowed to walk over the bridge and climb on it. Yesterday, in a big storm, the whole arch collapsed and has sunk in the sea. Stevie Haston has the full story.

Something different - Rudawy in Poland
Kuba Hudomiฤ™t has helped us with some info in regards Rudawy in Poland where you can climb the unique pillar Szczytowanie twe zadanie 6a. "If you are tired of the limestone cliffs of Southern Europe and youโ€™re looking for something completely different, Rudawy Janowickie is a perfect place to visit. This is a region situated in the southern part of the Polish Lower Silesia. Granite rocks (about 140) are scattered in the picturesque mountain slopes and valleys among dense forests. They offer mostly traditional climbing, but you can also find the routes with bolts/rings (about 250). The local granite gives you the opportunity to climb on various formations. You will find here different width cracks, slabs, rounded edges and vertical panels that require the skills of climbing small crimps. The climbing is very technical and often requires lower temperatures, so it is best to come here in the early spring or fall. Some of the rocks are quite far from the parking spaces so you need a little more time to find them. Because of that, they are not crowded. You can climb on any difficulty: from III to 8b. There are more than 1,000 routes and hundreds of boulders that have been established."

Ondra trains his flexibility in a ballet school
Adam Ondra post on his Instagram: "The neighbor of our climbing gym is a ballet school. Went for a visit ;)