NEWS

Climbing walls are growing like mushrooms
The Techno Creatives is a global agency working for the automotive industry. In order to have their employees in good shape and to be an attractive employer they just built their own small climbing wall. Similar stories we have heard about around the globe. Climbing walls are evolving like mushrooms and we have just seen the beginning. In the Techno Creative wall they also offer free equipment so once their employees want to get outdoors everything is ready.

Climbing is Mandatory for Brunico's 3,000 Pupils
Brunico in South Tyrol has some 20 000 inhabitants. In 2015, their 8.5 million gym paid by the municipality and run by Alpenverein Sรผdtirol was open with one idea: to let all pupils climb as part of their gymnastic classes. Every sixth week, all students from 7 - 19 years old have two classes of climbing together with their teachers. We will follow up with how this works in practice. The wall to the left on the picture hides a 20 meter wide and 18 meter high outdoor wall. To make the story even more amazing. In total the gym is open 93.5 hours a week. In the closest city, Brixen with 25,000 people some 30 minutes away, there exist another 3 million Euro gym but climbing is not mandatory yet. Some 500,000 people live in in South Tyrol and 12 % are members of the Alpenverein!

8c Again by Alberto Gines (14)
Alberto Gines has done his second 8c, Entre tus Piernas in La Muela. In the 8a ranking game he is #2 among the 14 year olds. "I have been climbing since I was 3 years old, but I started to climb seriously at 6, and I started training with David Maciร  4 years ago. I train 4 days a week and the on the weekend often I go to climb on rock. This year I want to win the Spanish climbing cup and some international competitions and do my first 8a+ onsight and more 8c's.

Lezeckรฉ steny rastรบ ako huby po daลพdi
The Techno Creativesje globรกlnou agentรบrou pracujรบcou v automobilovom priemysle. Aby udrลพali svojich zamestnancov v kondรญcii a boli atraktรญvnym zamestnรกvateฤพom, vybudovala si tรกto spoloฤnosลฅ vo svojich priestoroch malรบ lezeckรบ stenu. Nie sรบ vลกak jedinรญ, uลพ sme takรฝchto prรญbehov poฤuli niekoฤพko z viacerรฝch kรบtov sveta. Evolรบcia lezeckรฝch stien naberรก na obrรกtkach a to sme eลกte len na zaฤiatku. Na stene Techno Creative takisto ponรบkajรบ zapoลพiฤanie materiรกlu zadarmo, takลพe keฤ sa ich zamestnanci rozhodnรบ skรบsiลฅ lezenie vonku, mali by byลฅ dostatoฤne pripravenรญ.

Lezenie ako povinnรก sรบฤasลฅ vyuฤovania pre 3000 ลพiakov v Brunicu
Brunico v Juลพnom Tyrolsku mรก pribliลพne 20 000 obyvateฤพov. V roku 2015 mestskรก sprรกva otvorila 8.5 miliรณnovรบ halu, ktorรบ riadi Alpenverein Sรผdtirol, s jedinรฝm cieฤพom: aby mohli maลฅ ลกkolรกci ako povinnรบ sรบฤasลฅ telesnej vรฝchovy lezenie. Kaลพdรฝch 6 tรฝลพdลˆov majรบ ลกtudenti od 9 do 17 rokov spolu s uฤiteฤพmi dve hodiny lezeckรฝch kurzov. Neskรดr prinesieme informรกcie o tom, ako sa tento systรฉm osvedฤil v praxi. Na obrรกzku je za ฤพavou stenou schovanรก 20 metrov ลกirokรก a 18 metrov vysokรก outdoorovรก lezeckรก stena. Eลกte lepลกou sprรกvou je, ลพe je otvorenรก 93.5 hodรญn do tรฝลพdลˆa! ฤŽalลกia trojmiliรณnovรก lezeckรก hala sa nachรกdza asi 30 minรบt cesty autom v meste Brixen s cca 25 000 obyvateฤพmi, no tu eลกte lezenie nie je povinnรฉ. Zaujรญmavosลฅou je, ลพe v regiรณne Juลพnรฉ Tyrolsko ลพije pribliลพne 500 000 ฤพudรญ a 12% z nich sรบ ฤlenmi Alpenverein!

8c+ FA by Mumin Karabas in Turkey again
Mumin Karabas, who did the first 8c+ in Turkey, has done the ten year old project Karma Sutra 8c+ in Geyik Bayฤฑrฤฑ. "I struggled for 10 climbing days to figure out beta, and the other 10 climbing days for actually doing it. The route is very bouldery, there's 25 moves without chalking or resting." Mumin also reports that there are more than 50 % less climbers this winter season. "As you know the situation in Turkey...Not many foreigners are coming to Turkey for climbing. People are afraid... but there's a beautiful blue sky today and great season for climbing :)))"

Toshi Takeuchi tells us about the new Japanese hard core 90 minute video where he, Ryuichi Murai and Daisuke Ichimiya are featured. They are all in Top-4 in the ranking game. "Mizugaki 160 km from Tokyo and Toyota 300 km away are my favorites. I think, maybe best way to start a trip to Japan is go to one famous climbing gym first like Rocky, PUMP or Basecamp. They have a lot of information about many crags and some people can speak English. PUMP also has all guidebooks which are filled with pictures and maps so that you can figure out how to make it to the crag and boulders."

Felipe Camargo won USD 35 000 on Netflix Beastmaster
Felipe Camargo won among 108 challengers from Brazil, Usa, Mexico, Japan, Korea, Germany the Netflix Ultimate Beastmaster. The prize was USD 35,000! "It was pretty cool! I won the show and the final was together with a Korean who is ex world champion in ice climbing!!" In 2007, the Brazilian was #27 in the Lead World Champion when he was 16 years old. Later he has done three 9a's and also two 8C boulders. He is also one of the guys that have put up many hard core routes and boulders in Brazil.

Ki a fene az a Jim Holloway? โ€“ egy morzsรกnyi tรถrtรฉnelem 1.rรฉsz
Pรกr hete egy Bubb Feri telefon kapcsรกn merรผlt fel a tรฉma, magam is meglepล‘dtem โ€“ mennyire kikerรผlt ez az รšr a mรกszรณ tรถrtรฉnelembล‘l, pedig igazรกn รฉrdemes lenne pรกr szรณban megemlรญteni. รšgy lรกtszik John Gill รกrnyรฉkรกban sajnos szรกmos kemรฉny arc elfelejtล‘dรถtt. Az ล‘ tรถrtรฉnete azรฉrt kรผlรถnรถs, mert 1975-ben (tรถbb mint 40 รฉvvel ezelล‘tt!) megnyitotta elvileg az elsล‘ 8A+ bouldert a vilรกgon (Trice), melyet aztรกn majdnem 30 รฉvig nem tudott megismรฉtelni senki. Hogy ez az รบt jellegรฉnek vagy Jim 193cm magassรกgรกnak kรถszรถnhetล‘ azt nem tudni, mindenesetre a helyiek elmondรกsaibรณl fogalommรก vรกltak a Holloway boulderek. A nehรฉzsรฉgi fokok besorolรกsรกra sajรกtos nehรฉzsรฉgi skรกlรกt hozott lรฉtre; (JHE โ€“ Jim Holloway Easy, JHM โ€“ medium รฉs JHH โ€“ hard). A Trice nevลฑ bouldert Coloradoban vรฉgรผl Carlo Traversi ismรฉtelte elsล‘kรฉnt 2007-ben รฉs fokozta be az amerikai V12 fokozatba (8A+). A mรกsik nagy vad a mรฉg kevรฉsbรฉ ismรฉtelt Slapshot ami 77-ben szรผletett รฉs az emlegetett fokozata csak azรฉrt lett 8A+, mert ez is a hรญres Holloway hรกrmasba tartozott. Kรฉsล‘bb szรกmos fogรกsmorzsolรณdรกs kรถvetkezett be, de az รบt jelenlegi 8B-re titulรกlt fokozata mรฉg megerล‘sรญtรฉsre vรกr. Az รถreg termรฉszetesen ezeket a bouldereit chraspadek nรฉlkรผl mรกszta, ami mรฉg egy fokot emel az old schoolba minล‘sรญtรฉsen. Vรฉgรผl a mรกszรกssal felhagyva emberรผnk bicikliversenyzล‘ lett, de Coloradoban mรกig ott az a tรถbb szรกz V3-V8 boulder โ€“ amit fennhagyott az utรณkor szรกmรกra. ร‰rdekes cikk az alรกbbi linken.

Beginners Guide to Yoga
Prana presents Beginners guide to Yoga. Many of the best climbers in the world practice yoga and it is also very useful to be flexible. "Best of all, you can start today. Right now. Read through the guide below and remember to have fun with it and go at your own pace. The only requirement? Forget what you think you know about yoga."