Melissa Le Nevé, bývalá pravidelná účastníčka svetového pohára a tretia v celkovom poradí sveťáku v boulderingu 2016, oznámila na svojom Instagrame, že sa jej podarilo preliezť jej prvé 8B+, Mécanique Élémentaire vo Fontainebleau. (c) Fabian Buhl "Dnes sa mi podarilo preliezť môj papierovo najťažší boulder, no hlavne moju najväčšiu výzvu čo sa týka dĺžky krokov a psychickej odolnosti! Po viacerých pokusoch, kedy som padala v poslednom kroku, som sa konečne mohla postaviť na vrchol "mecanique elementaire" 8b+."

Melissa Le Nevé, aki tavaly #3 helyen zárta a Boulder Világkupa összesítést rendesen odacsapott bleauban, számol be erről az Instagramján. A 28 éves francia leányzó a Mécanique Élémentaire nevű hírességet mászta meg, ami az első 8B+ -os boulder lett a ticklistjén. "Ma képes voltam leküldeni a papírforma szerinti legnehezebb mászásom ever, de legfőképp a nehéz része az óriási mozdulatok csinálhatóságának elfogadása és a mentális oldal volt. Miután kiestem az legutolsó mozdulatából a bouldernek, végül sikerült kiállni a "mecanique elementaire" 8b+ tömbjének tetejére." Melissa 9 aktív éven keresztül versenyzett világkupákon, többször állt dobogón - két második helyezés a legkeményebb eredménye, a 2016 évben pedig a 3. lett az összesített WC ranglistán. Sajnos ez év végén be is jelentette a versenyzéstől való visszavonulását. De nem ő az első eset aki a versenyzés befejezésével kezdett igazán kemény sziklázásba. Kilian Fishhuber is hasonló példa lehet, aki a versenyzés világától való visszavonulása után mászta első (és rögtön második) 8C boulderét a 'From Dirt Grows the Flowers' - Graham bouldert és az 'Insanity of Grandeur' Koyamada plafonkimászást - mindkettőt Svájcból. Egyébként Melissa neve mellett még számos érdekességet meg kell említenünk. Többek között nem csak boulderben jeleskedik, mászott 8c+ sportutat és első női megmászója lett a klasszikus Wallstreet 8c útnak Frankenjuraban, ami az első ilyen fokozatú út volt a világon. Első női megmászója a Big Five-nak; ami Fontainebleau-ban lévő 5 híres és nehéz boulder együttese, a klubba pedig csak azok csatlakozhatnak akik mindegyik tömb tetejére kiállnak... (7C-8A) fokozatot kell ehhez prezentálni.

Dmitrii Fakirianov, double Youth World Champion who finished the 2016 Lead WC with 3- 2 - 5, is a new 8a member who just onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. The Russian is on an onsight training camp in Spain; he has also onsighted four 8a+ and harder, and flashed Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya. "Before I didn't climb so much on rocks. In Europe I had the opportunity to climb on rocks in 2013 in Arco, Massone and there I did Renis Vibes 8c/+. After that in 2015 in Crimea. I did the first ascent of a very hard route named "Christmas Party". It was harder than Renis Vibes I think. I was the only one who finished it. I wanted to be humble and I graded it as "8c+/?" because I didn't tried and climbed before 9a. So how was it onsighting an 8c? "For me it was hard more mentally than physically because I didn't before onsight so high grade categories. I think that route was my style: after hard sections - rest positions, long route. It's always not so easy to break some barriers when you connecting with something new. For me in this situation that barrier was category 8c. What are you next plan and ambition? I have some plans to work on my climbing technic and strength. And to compete in some national comps. I will also soon start training Speed in order to go for the Olympics.

Khosro Hashemzadeh, who just onsighted Olympos Games 8b (a+) in Geyikbayırı, gave us some insight into the impressive climbing scene in Iran. Khosro has been an elite climber, coach, and route setter for many years in Tehran. "We have climbing in almost all the cities around the Iran, maybe more than 3000 climbers around the country. Also lots of outdoor climbing around the country specially in the west side of Iran. Karmanshah is the most famous one in Iran with maybe more than 500 sport routes and also a big wall (Bisotun 1200 meter) with around 50 lines on it. Also we have lots of gyms around Iran and probably all the cities have one at least. For example in Tehran there are 5 or 6 great gyms which are working pretty well. Competitions are just like all the Ifsc comps around the world and we have almost 5 or 6 national cups around Iran in all the 3 fields of climbing. Also a national team which participate in most of the world and Asian cups. We usually have to pay for all the world cups ourselves. The federation just sends sometimes a small number of people to championships. Reza Alipour was runner up in last Speed World Champion and Ali Baratzadeh normally makes it to Boulder WC semis."

From March 25th to March 26th we organize an international bouldercup in our bouldering-gym Studio Bloc in Pfungstadt, Germany: Studio Bloc Masters This bouldercup is opened for hobby- and professional boulderers, so that everybody is able to take part. Fortunately this cup unites bouldering as a spare time activity and that kind of professional athletics. Names like Alexei Ruptsov (Russia), Chon Jongwon (Korea) or Jan Hojer (Germany) are already registered. With an entire prize money of 10.000,-€, Blocmasters are in no way inferior to other named cups. So, there will be a spectacular day of semi-finals and finals. But this event won´t be a commercial bouldercup, all profits will be donated to "Climbers Against Cancer" (CAC).

Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done over 20 routes 9a, half of them FAs, has done Definicion de la resistencia démocrata for which he gives a personal 9a grade. "Finish the job is important! Even if you are close, you have to stay focus. Sometime is the more important." The 23 year old French has previously suggested personal down grades for six former 9a to 9b+' included some very famous ones. (c) Jonas Wiklund

With the IFSC Bouldering World Cup season starting soon this weekend The Rab CWIF offers a great warmup comp for both competitors and keen spectators. A fantastic lineup includes competition stars such as Sean McColl, Rustam Gelmanov and Jongwon Chon as well as World Champion Petra Klinger and Melissa Le Neve. Also attending will be David Lama, Juliane Wurm, Jimmy Webb & Alex Megos. Watch the Webcast Live on Sunday 19th March at 13 with semis and 19 with finals. You can also follow the event at Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

Chad Shepard has helped us out with some info in regards Tuolumne Meadows, #1 in the Bouldering trend ranking. It is located 1.5 hours from Yosemite valley at 2,500 - 3,000 meters and the potential is endless. "The past two summers, I see groups of 20-30 people at each spot every day over the weekend. It appears to be a 10 fold increase in traffic since the new guidebook came out 2014. There's 1200 problems in the Tuolumne guide. and about 300-400 problems not in there. Most of those are newer areas not in the guide, some just too far away. The guide covers an area of about 30 miles of road, and hiking as many miles away from the road as you like. Most of the bouldering on the guide is within 1 hour hike, but you could go farther and find as many new boulders as you want. The climbing season is generally from June-September, and there is no access at all from November to May. The Tuolumne Meadows area is very large (it’s a much larger portion of Yosemite National Park than Yosemite Valley. You might drive 30 minutes and hike an hour to get to the next bouldering area. One of main attractions of Tuolumne Meadows is the scenery. It’s in a designated wilderness area, so the landscape fairly wild. The granite domes and high alpine lakes and meadows make for a great backdrop for a day out bouldering. The different bouldering areas are as diverse as the rock quality. It’s my hope that climbers will understand how fragile the high alpine environment is (many of the boulders are between 8000’-10,000’) and respect wilderness ethics as the bouldering traffic increases."

Matyas Luzan has been obsessed with Action Directe since the beginning of 2014 and hsa only trained for this route. In 2015, he tried it and got injured immediately. In 2016, he destroyed his shoe once working out a new toe-hook sequence. Nowadays, he is training 10 hours per day mainly just doing boulders on the Moonboard followed by a rest day. Video doing Moonboard's up to 8B. "I just spend 10h in the gym and try to give it my best. What can I say, I love it. Honestly it's just getting through the pain but it's not so dramatic as it sounds now. It's fun, climbing with others and such." His plan is to soon start working on the AD replica again. In May, the Romanian with 8b as personal best, plans to go back to Frankenjura, living dirtbag life under AD, preparing and waiting for the best conditions. In regards the new beta, it is in the middle where he just before the crux, does a toe-hook over his head. He hangs there for some 15 seconds clipping, chalking and doing a very deep lock off, skipping the crux right mono, see right circle in the picture. "This is an easier sequence *IF* you have lock off strength and mobility." 8a interview from 2015

Matyas Luzan je od roku 2014 posadnutý cestou Action Direct 9a a trénuje špecificky len na túto cestu. V roku 2015 ju vyskúšal, no okamžite sa zranil a v roku 2016 roztrhol lezečku pri skúšaní novej sekvencie so založením špičky. V súčasnosti trénuje 10 hodín denne, väčšinou lezie ťažké bouldre na Moonboarde, potom nasleduje rest day. Video, kde Luzán lezie bouldre do 8B na Moonboarde. "Jednoducho som 10 hodín na stene a snažím sa z toho vyťažiť maximum. Čo vám poviem, milujem to. Popravde je to o prekonávaní bolesti, no teraz to už nie je také dramatické, ako to môže vyznievať. Je to zábava, liezť s druhými a tak." Jeho ďalším plánom je začať znovu trénovať na svojej replike Action Direct. V Máji sa tento Rumun, ktorého doterajší najlepší prelez je 8b, plánuje vrátiť do Frankenjury a squatovať pod Action Direct, usadiť sa tam a čakať na najlepšie podmienky. Čo sa týka nového softvéru, používa ho v strednej časti cesty hneď pred ťažkým bouldrom a vykladá v ňom špičku až nad hlavu. Následne na nej visí cca 15 sekúnd, počas ktorým si cvakne, namádžuje a nachystá sa na ťažký fix, vďaka ktorému však preskočí jednoprstovú dierku vpravo (na obrázku červeným). "Je to jednoduchší softvér, *AK* máš silu vo fixe a si rozťahaný" Interview pre 8a z roku 2015.