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The easiest way to boost your power is done through hyper-ventilation. Try it out during your next campus board session and you will get amazed. During climbing it works best coming out from a good rest, where you have focused on long and slow yoga breathing. This actually make you loose power so if there is a crux coming up, hyper-ventilate to reload and boost your power. The second way to increase your power in one second is done through focusing on the hand you are not moving. If you are up for a dynamic move, it seems like your eager and focus on the next hold, make you loose some gripping hand power. Experiment to actually look at the holding hand and feel that you get stronger while trying to reach upwards. You can also ask your friends to remind you to focus on the gripping hand while climbing. It works best on pinches and side pulls. For closed crimps, for experts, you should simply ask your friend to remind you to focus on the thumb closure to boost your power during the next second.

Najjednoduchším spôsobom, ako si okamžite zvýšiť silu je hyperventiláciou - rýchlym dýchaním. Skús to počas nasledujúceho tréningu na kampuse a budeš prekvapený. Počas lezenia je najlepšie začať rýchlo dýchať, keď opúšťaš oddychové miesto, kde si sa sústredil na pomalé jógínske dýchanie. Pomalé dýchanie však spôsobuje stratu okamžitej sily a preto, keď prichádzaš k bouldru v ceste, začni dýchať rýchlo, aby sa ti znovu vrátila. Druhou cestou k okamžitému zvýšeniu sily je sústrediť sa pri lezení na ruku, ktorou práve nehýbeš. Ak je pred tebou dynamický krok, môže sa stať, že tvoje odhodlanie a sústredenie spôsobia, že stratíš silu v ruke, ktorou sa držíš. Vyskúšaj si sústrediť sa na ňu a predstaviť si, že počas kroku do ďalšieho chytu naberáš na sile. Môžeš skúsiť poprosiť svojich kamošov, aby ti pripomenuli, že sa máš sústrediť na tú ruku, ktorú máš práve na chyte. Túto techniku najlepšie natrénuješ na stiskoch a bočákoch. Pre expertov: keď chystáš lištu na zámok, jednoducho sa spýtaj kamošov, či by ti pripomenuli sústrediť sa na moment, keď palcom zamykáš ostatné prsty. Toto ti pomôže cítiť sa v ďalšom kroku silnejším. Autor: Jens Larssen

Eddie Fowke z The Circuit Climbing spravil s Margo Hayes interview ešte počas prvého dňa skúšania La Rambly a tu je výsledok. Margo sa chystá do Októbra pobudnúť vo Francúzsku a jej cieľom je zúčastniť sa väčšiny závodov svetového pohára. Prikladáme aj jej 8a denníček, v ktorom si v súčte zapísala 91 prelezov do obtiažnosti 9a. Čo sa týka bouldov, táto devätnásťročná američanka má na konte tri 8Ačka a prvé z nich preliezla, keď mala len trinásť. Minulý rok vyhrala na Majstrovstvách sveta tri zlaté medaily.

The Olympic 2020 has not been set yet and most have not yet decided if they want to go for the big Tokyo challenge. Anyhow, here is a prediction of Top-6. What we should bare in mind is that it will be very hard for any 25+ climber to adopt to the new Speed technique. Accordingly, many youngsters have been listed. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Adam Ondra CZE 2. Ashima Shiraishi USA - Sean McColl CAN 3. Margo Hayes USA - Domen Skofic SLO 4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS - Jakob Schubert AUT 5. Brooke Raboutou - Kokora Fujii JPN 6. Akiyo Noguchi JPN - Tomoa Narasaki JPN

Five Ten presents an interesting interview with the training buddies Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane who have just returned from a training trip in California. They also bouldered in Joshua Tree for few days. "Leah: “The purpose of the trip was to go on a two week training camp to solely focus on training in preparation for our upcoming 2017 Bouldering World Cup season. Being in dedicated training environment means there's no distractions. You're there to train. We chose America as the US has a very particular setting style at indoor gyms which we don't really get to experience in the UK and the hold selection is very different. Being in California also meant we could visit HQ in person, meet with the footwear designers and discuss future product, current product development and get an understanding of how things are run stateside.” Shauna: “With just a few months to go until the start of the 2017 World Cup season training is in full swing. We were working on many different aspects and training twice a day on most days covering everything finger strength, upper body strength, core strength, leg strength, fitness both on and off the wall and also climbing hard boulders and making up climbs and jumps too.”

We have ranked 12 strategical and practical short cuts in order to push grades. Most climbers focus on strength, i.e. in comparison it is easier to develop technical, tactical and mental skills, which are the focus here.

Eddie Fowke from The Circuit Climbing was together with Margo Hayes the first days she tried La Rambla and has got an interview. What is interesting is that she will be based in France until October and plans to do most World Cups. Here you can check Margo Hayes 8ascorecard including 91 ascents previously up to 9a. In bouldering the 19 year old has recorded three 8A's, the first when she was 13 years old. Last year she won three golds in the Youth World Championships.

Five Ten predstavili zaujímavé interview s tréningovými parťáčkami Shaunou Coxsey a Leahou Crane, ktoré sa nedávno vrátili z tréningového výjazdu v Californii. Popri tom si stihli ešte odskočiť zabouldrovať na pár dní do Joshua Tree. "Leah: Cieľom celého výjazdu bolo stráviť dva týždne trénovaním so zameraním výlučne na prípravu na tohtoročnú sezónu Svetového pohára v boulderingu 2017. Keď si v prostredí, kde sú všetci zapálení do tréningu, neexistujú žiadne rušivé elementy. Si tam, aby si trénoval. Vybrali sme si Ameriku, lebo v Spojených štátoch majú veľmi špecifický spôsob stavania ciest v halách, ktorý vo Veľkej Británii nemáme a takisto výber chytov je takisto veľmi rozdielny. Keďže sme boli v Californii mohli sme navštíviť aj centrálu Five Tenu a stretnúť sa s dizajnérmi, podiskutovať o budúcich produktoch, pozrieť sa na vývoj tých terajších a naučiť sa viac o tom, ako veci fungujú v Štátoch." Shauna: "Do začiatku sveťákovej sezóny 2017 zostáva už len pár mesiacov a tak je tréning v plnom prúde. Pracovali sme na mnohých aspektoch lezenia a väčšinu dni sme trénovali dvojfázovo. Zahrnuli sme silu prstov, hornej polovice tela, brucha, nôh, kondičku na stene aj mimo nej, liezli sme ťažké bouldre a vymýšľali si vlastné varianty a takisto skoky."

IFSC is about to take decision in regards to the Olympic format this weekend and here are the 8a thoughts which focus on the following: that the Speed route should vary, be steeper and include four lanes. 1. The Speed world record holder, Danyl Boldyrev, has told 8a he thinks the fixed route is boring. 2. There are only a dozen certified world record walls in the world 3. The Paris World Championship wall did not get certified 4. Most potential athletes live many hours from nearest Speed wall 5. Gym owners do not want rebuild their walls 6. We should not make kids (slow) speed climbing robots 7. Six second spectacle is too little On the other side, the current 6b+ route is too difficult for the youngest athletes and in fact harder for shorter kids. Even in world champions, runs over 15 seconds are normal and the fixed route setting excludes the average young climber to speed climb. In some countries they have actually added holds in order to let the youngest reach the top. IOC has said that the best must participate and ultimately, if we will make it to the 2024, Ondra needs to participate. A steeper route is longer, looks more impressive and is less about leg muscles. It will also need less invested time for Ondra etc to get a high level which makes him more interested to participate. Solution 10 - 18 meters high 0 - 4 meters overhanging 7a difficulty down to 5a for kids Up to 10 meters (four lanes) wide Normal route setting In regards the Combined format, 8a suggest that first all 20 athletes will do one run of Lead, Boulder and Speed. Then calculate the Top-8 and do one more run. As an option, the Top-4 can then compete with semi and finals in a Duel to decide the podium. Adam Ondra has said he thinks the 8a Olympic solution is "reasonable in terms of fairness" besides the Duel.