NEWS

The Circuit Climbing napรญsali ฤlรกnok o CWIF 2017 s komentรกrom, ลพe novรฉ pravidlo ลกtyroch minรบt je totรกlna katastrofa. "Od pretekรกrov, cez divรกkov aลพ ku stavaฤom, kaลพdรฝ sa sลฅaลพoval, ลพe novรฝ formรกt mal na sรบลฅaลพ negatรญvny vplyv."

Stefano Ghisolfi a Jacopo Larcher ฤalลกรญ z rady prelezcov La Rambly 9a+
Stefano Ghisolfi preliezol za poslednรฝ rok jedno 9b a pรคลฅ 9a+ a nedรกvno pridal do svojej zbierky ฤalลกie - La Rambla 9a+, a cesta mu zabrala len ลกtyri pokusy. (c) Paolo Sarto ล tvorka svetovรฉho pohรกra 2016, Stefano na svojom Facebooku povedal, ลพe pod cestou stรกl pred ลกtyrmi rokmi, no vtedy nenabral odvahu ju vyskรบลกaลฅ. Tento rok sa do nej pustil z ostra: flashovรฝm pokusom. Pred dvomi dลˆami sa na Facebooku z cesty ozval aj Jacopo Larcher so slovami: "Pred nami sรบ poslednรฉ dva dni vรฝjazdu a ja v La Ramble pรกdam stรกle vyลกลกie a vyลกลกie. Dรบfajme v klasickรฉ "poslednรฝ deลˆ, najlepลกรญ deลˆ." A dnes Barbara Zangerl priลกla so sprรกvou, ลพe Jacopove slovรก sa naplnili. "Preliezol ju v poslednรฝ deลˆ!!! V poslednej minรบte!!!!!! Yeaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh"

Bezpeฤnosลฅ v centre pozronosti pre ลพiakov v Brunicu
V meste Brunico sa ลพiaci povinne uฤia liezลฅ od siedmich rokov a "hodiny" majรบ 12-krรกt do roka. Predmet je znรกmkovanรฝ, do celkovรฉho hodnotenia sa rรกta fyzickรก ฤasลฅ, ako aj vลกeobecnรฉ znalosti ฤi znalosti bezpeฤnosti. Deti sa mรดลพu navzรกjom istiลฅ od dvanรกstich rokov, no uฤiลฅ sa technike istenia zaฤnรบ uลพ v รดsmich. Zo zaฤiatku sรบ pod stรกlym dozorom uฤiteฤพov a inลกtruktorov a vลพdy istia v dvojiciach. Neskรดr mรดลพu zaฤaลฅ istiลฅ samostatne, no aลพ po tom, ฤo uฤiteฤพ uviaลพe bezpeฤnostnรฝ uzol na kaลพdรฝch cca dvoch metroch lana (uzol je vidno na obrรกzku). Pri spรบลกลฅanรญ svojho parลฅรกka im jednoducho staฤรญ zatiahnuลฅ lano so spodnej strany uzla, ฤรญm sa povolรญ a mรดลพu spรบลกลฅaลฅ ฤalej. Kรฝbliky alebo osmy sa pouลพรญvaลฅ nesmรบ, deckรก istia s poloautomatickรฝmi istรญtkami. Keฤ pred osemnรกstimi mesiacmi ลกkola zaฤรญnala s povinnรฝmi hodinami lezenia, viacero uฤiteฤพov, rodiฤov, ale aj ลพiakov bolo pomerne skeptickรฝch, no program mรก nakoniec veฤพkรฝ รบspech.

The Circuit Climbing has made a review of CWIF 2017 saying the new 4 minute rule in the final was a complete disaster. "Everyone, from the climbers, to the spectators to the setters complained about the impact on the show."

Two 8c onsight and a 9a by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra reported yesterday on Instagram with a picture by Javi Pec from a failed onsight attempt of Directa Cornualles 8c in Siurana that he has been sick in beds for some days. "Since then I have been recovering, but I am not back in the shape where I would like to be (and was). Sad to be almost leaving with all my projects untouched, but they will not run away." Anyway, Adam had time to redpoint Fabelita R2 9a and onsight two 8c's in Sadernes, Milenium and Magin el Mago. In total, the 24 year old has recorded 81 routes onsight 8c and harder which can be compared with the runner-ups who have done like a handful. He also did a "retro-onsight" of Le Concepte integrale 8c+. "I had tried the first 8b+ part 8 yrs ago."

Three 8c's by Laura Rogora (15)
Laura Rogora has during the last week done three 8c's including the FA of Ercole bolted by Cesare Giuliani in Collepardo. Yesterday she did the chipped route Crazy Horse skipping one of the chipped holds. To make the 15 year old's ascent event more impressive, she did it second go. (c) Lorenzo Russo "I understood all the moves quite quickly. I had to try a few times only one move because I didn't reach one chipped holds so I had to find another method on natural holds.

Melissa Le Nevรฉ: 8B+ vo Fontainebleau
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, bรฝvalรก รบspeลกnรก pretekรกrka svetovรฉho pohรกra (minulรฝ rok skonฤila na treลฅom mieste), oznรกmila na svojom Instagrame prelez svojho prvรฉho 8B+, Mรฉcanique ร‰lรฉmentaire vo Fontainebleau. (c) Fabian Buhl "Dnes sa mi podarilo preliezลฅ mรดj papierovo najลฅaลพลกรญ boulder, ktorรฝ bol vรฝzvou hlavne kvรดli dlhรฝm krokom a po psychickej strรกnke! Po niekoฤพkรฝch pรกdoch v poslednom kroku som sa koneฤne mohla postaviลฅ na vrchol "Mecanique Elementaire" 8b+."

8B+ in Font by Melissa Le Nevรฉ
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, the retired World Cup climber who was #3 in the Boulder WC last year, reports on Instagram that she has done her first 8B+, Mรฉcanique ร‰lรฉmentaire in Fontainebleau. (c) Fabian Buhl "Today I was able to send my hardest climb on the paper but mostly my hardest challenge in terms of reachy moves and mental side! After falling a while on the very last move I finally could stand on the top of "Mecanique Elementaire" 8b+."

Megos & Le Neve win CWIF through rock climbing preparation
Melissa Le Neve, who retired from the WC scene last year being #3 overall, prepared for the CWIF 2017 by doing her first 8B+ in Fontainebleau. That worked out pretty nice as she was the only competitor to flash three problems. So why not go to Font again and try the first WC in Switzerland in three weeks? Alex Megos, who won CWIF also in 2015, has been climbing just easy the last two months due to an inflammation. Three days ago, the German said on Instagram, "I'll be at the CWIF again this weekend but unfortunately won't be able to compete due to a finger injury." He tried anyhow but after the semi he wrote, "Will see if I'll be able to climb tomorrow in semis. Depends how much my finger will be swollen..." In the semi, he did not make good progress on the first three boulders but managed to do the last slab. In the final it was actually the same story again but this time the slab was the third boulder. Runner-ups were Petra Klingler and Jongwon Chon and thirds were Michaela Tracy and Michael Piccolruaz. (c) Eddie Fowke