Studio BlocMasters bolo veľmi dobrým podujatím, ktoré sa však nezaobišlo bez veľkých problémov. Tak ako minulý týždeň, aj teraz sa ukázalo, že nové pravidlo, ktoré dáva lezcom presné 4 minúty na prelez, je sklamaním. Dúfajme, že sa do najbližšieho svetového pohára, ktorý sa začína o dva týždne vo Švajčiarsku, pretekári lepšie prispôsobia tejto zmene pravidiel. Na tomto linku nájdeš report z kvalifikácie od The Circuit Climbing spolu s fotoalbumom. (c) Eddie Fowke - Víťazka kvalifikácie Janja Garnbret. 1. Jernej Kruder SLO - Fanny Gibert FRA 2. Jongwon Chon KOR - Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Jan Hojer GER - Chloé Caulier BEL Kompletné výsledky Za zmienku takisto stojí, že prví traja muži na pódiu boli takisto vo finále CWIF minulý týždeň, čo nám napovedá, kto môže byť, okrem japonských pretekárov, favoritom nasledujúceho svetového pohára. Zo žien sa však žiadna nedostala do oboch finále.

Studio Bloc Masters will take place this weekend with live streaming on Sunday. Semi starts at 11.30 and the final at 16.00. In total 500 athletes from 34 countries will participate including more than 50 % of the best ranked in the 2016 World Cup. The prize money is Euro 10 000 and all profit will be donated to Climbers Against Cancer. The Circuit Climbing has the qualifying report.

The Studio BlocMasters turned out to be a great event with great problems. As of last week, the new 4 minute rule did was a disappointment. Let us hope the climbers will adapt better when the World Cup starts in two weekends in Switzerland. Here is The Circuit Climbing qualifying report and album. (c) Eddie Fowke - Janja Garnbret winning the qually. 1. Jernej Kruder SLO - Fanny Gibert FRA 2. Jongwon Chon KOR - Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Jan Hojer GER - Chloé Caulier BEL Complete results Noteworthy is that the three on male podium on BlocMasters did also make it to the final at CWIF last week, which should give a hint who are favorites for the WCs, beside the Japanese. None of the females made it to both the finals.

Gonzalo Larrocha has done La novena enmienda in Santa Linya recording it with a personal 9a grade. "I tried the route for 4 or 5 months, but usually just once or twice a week. I used many good rest to do the route. I could do this route because I live near the cave."

Mile Heyden has done an amazing jump from 8A to do Feuerwalze 8B+ in Schwäbische Alb. So how many sessions, any specific indoor training and what is next with the 8B+ confidence? "I think about 20 to 25 sessions :) First I just wanted to do the second part which is 8A, but I did it in only one session which was really cool :) I recreated the boulder in our gym and did a specific undercut training (like the beastmaker 7sec program). I also did lots of boulders with many moves for the endurance. Now with 8B+ confidence I think I will dare to try some more harder boulders :) There are some really cool lines in for example Silvretta that I've always wanted to do like Charity Bouldern (8a+). And I think I will try all the open projects, also a 6A jump I never was able to do! Maybe I'm able to now:) But first I have to go rope climbing with my boyfriend because he spotted me all the time (really don`t like rope climbing :))"

IFSC has informed 8a that there will only be six in the Speed finals in the Combined format. What they previously said, which 8a questioned, was wrong. "For the Speed Final the concept of “Lucky loser” (7° and 8° ranked Athletes in the 1/8th finals) applies, as a quota of 6 does not allow the duel system." IFSC says now that the six finalist will compete in three Duels and that the winners as well as the best time of the losers will qualify to the semifinal.

Steve Townshend, the fastest 8c+ climber in the world, has always used speed to do hard routes and here he explains the importance of breathing. Adam Ondra, known for his Speed, agrees with Steve and have also given some comments in the end. "Generally fast is better as long as you don't sacrifice efficiency. On some hard moves or sequences I have discovered I need to force myself to slow down. I also have practiced a lot of yoga, where you time your breathing with your movement, and I've learned to apply this same concept to climbing and that really helps. I used to fall off at the crux sometimes but other times I wouldn't and I couldn't figure out why? Until I applied this "breath with movement" idea and discovered that if I was breathing in during the crux I would fall. I needed to take air in just before the hardest moves and then either hold it in during the crux or exhale during the crux. This is why Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma scream (and tennis players and Bruce Lee) during the hard moves: it enhances your power. A hard part about this "rest" or with climbing slowly in general, is letting other thoughts enter your mind. You want to stay in the "zone" and not start to over analyze things. Sometimes if my mind starts to wander I just focus on my breath to keep those thought out. Deep breathes seems to be a key to climbing at your max. Just listen to Adam and you'll see he's figured that out too. I'm making a conscious effort to get better at breathing deeper and louder and times with the moves better when I climb at my max and at "full speed"." We asked Adam Ondra if he could comment Steve's interesting article and climbing style. I definitely try to breath as much as possible, because why do you get pumped (ie. get lactic acid)? Because of lack of oxygen. The more you breath, less lactic acid. What I usually do when I get to the jug or any rest - breath a lot at the beginning of the resting period, then slower to let my heart rate go down and just before going for it breath deeply a few more times again to motivate myself and "wake" myself up. Steve's climbing style is very impressive, but I would guess he could try to find a few half-a-second- or 1 second-shakeouts while climbing the first section of the route up to the rest. He has a very good pace with a generally relaxed body, but there is not even one second when he would shake either of the hands completely. He just keeps going. And that is tiring. Or the route is too long to be climbed in this style. Of course for somebody as fit as Ramonet it is not efficient to climb as fast. For Steve or me it could be the most efficient to climb that fast. But if we decide to train like horses, we could be fitter, our ability to shake out while climbing would better and it would be more efficient to climb slower and find more short rests. Other climbers have this fitness naturally, or due to long-life training, ability to rest almost everywhere (weight-dependent and genetic too). For these climbers, it is probably useless to start climbing faster."

Ella Adamovska reports on Instagram that she has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana. Last week, the Czech did her first 8b+ and in total she has done six routes 8a and harder in Oliana. In 2015, she was #7 in the Youth World Championship.

Nico Pelorson, Euro Youth Champion last year who just was #2 in French nationals, has done three 8B's in a day in Fontainebleau: Gecko Assis 8B+, Khéops and Satan i Helvete in the picture, without his left shoe. In fact he also did Verdict 8A on the his amazing record breaking day. In the 8a combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #6. "I have previously had one session on "Satan i Helvete", two on "Khéops" and two on "Gecko". Conditions were perfect, not much sun and a little fresh wind. I did "Satan" with only one shoe because there is a kind of 2 finger pocket hold for the left foot which is impossible to use with a climbing shoe. Barefoot, I can put my big toe into this hold and it's easier."

Rég vártunk már az érkezésére, sokáig kopogtatott az ajtón. A kommentekben lehetett olvasni rontott OS-ekről, 8a flashről amire majdnem rá lehetett volna fogni az on-sightot ha Balázs nem nézegeti olyan sokáig a falban mozgó papát, de eljött az idő amikor nem maradtak kételyek. Egy út amiről semmit nem tudsz és senkit nem látsz benne, csupán a lógó slingek mutatják az útvonalat. A bűvös fokozatot Balázs a 7. Magyarként érhette el; Kámvás B., Székely G., Székely A. Zengő M., Farkas T., Fülöp I., Dede L., Scharnitzky Á. és Kucsera B. után írta fel nevét a listába, de ha a megmászáskor tartósan Magyarországon élő mászókat részesítjük előnyben, akkor Balázs 7.-ként érte el a magic teljesítményt, a Pelinkovac 8a útat rántotta ba a RockNroč szektorból, az Isztriáról. Egyébként ezen kívül még két másik 8a-t is sikerült bezsebelnie Kompanjból, a Domače Kobasice és a Realitätsverlust képében. A Bajszos egyébként februárban nyitotta meg Várgesztes talán jelenlegi legnehezebb útját, a Káin direkt 7c+ utat, mely az eredetivel ellentétben a végén nem megy ki a repedésbe hanem egy kisebb runouttal megy fel egyenesen a standig. De nem csak egy keménység történt az Isztrián. A téli eresítő sessionökről elhíresült Németh Rudolf (Gerecse SE tag és Halfmezko team alapító) tolta ki 'elsőre mászásokban' a határt, most két 7c flash mászással nyújtotta legjobbját a halfmezkós legény. A Kompanj-i Katz és Powder war estek el. Aminek személy szerint is nagyon örülök, hogy Benke Balázs visszatért a vállsérülés késztette hosszú kihagyásból és nem is akárhogy! Balázs végtelen tudatosan ásta bele magát a gyógytornába és teljesen gyógytoresztől kikottulva kezdte meg a mászásspecifikus edzéseit, aminek jön is az eredménye. A Yogi 7c/+ esett el most harmadik próbára. Hölgyeknél a jelenlegi legmotiváltabb hazai mászócsaj; Kimmel Zsófi jeleskedett, a Nadernalin 7b megmászással tette koedukálttá az eredményeket. Remélem nem teszek nagy terhet Zsófi nyakába ha azt mondom pár éven belül ő lehet a következő 8a szintet elérő hazai hölgy, legalábbis a motiváltságát látva ez benne van a pakliban. Simon Bence is virított hosszú sérülésből feltámadás után, egy 7c+ és két 8a+ secong-go (!)-val kezdte az évet. Bence híres a Misjai éves klubtagságáról, így hiába az új kihívásokat rejtő isztriai mászóhelyrengetegek... azért csak megy még a visszajárogatás a (még) meg nem mászott vadakért. Neki most a La petarda és Fantastic Voyage utakért jár a taps. Két külföldi 10- mászni másodikra egy trippen, azért nem hangzik rosszul. De még koránt sincs vége a listának! Az ausztriai küldetését teljesítő Fidy Márton is a lovak közé csapott, még magát is meglepve mászta meg a Peter Pan 8a utat három próbából. A szintén jelenleg Ausztriában élő Nagy Ferdinándnak lassan már bérelt helye van a heti posztjaim között. A "mindenheti 8A"-k szépen gyűlnek, a Durchisichtige Dinge 8A+ megmászással eléggé feltéve az i-re a pontot. Nándinak az a hetedik 8A vagy afeletti bouldere az elmúlt egy hónapban. Hamarosan videó is érkezik!