NEWS

Climbing spots in the focus
"Climbing Gardens of the World" is an exhibition about climbing spots from all over the world. Vertical-Life, together with their partner Leitner ropeways, will present this extraordinary show in the course of the prestigious IGA gardening fair in Berlin (April 13 โ€“ October 15). The exhibition is comprised of a collection of pictures, video material, and real stone, representing a selection of about 200 beautiful and legendary climbing areas. Also, Vertical-Life portrays some of the most exceptional route and boulder developers: Dani Andrada, Fred Nicole, Arnaud Petit, Chris Sharma, and Nasim Eshqi. Video presentation About 2.3 million visitors are expected to attend the IGA show in Berlin. This means a good opportunity for our sport to get the attention of a broader public, while being a comprehensive exhibition of interest for the climbing community. (c) Helmut Gargitter

Joe Mama 9a+ by Matty Hong
Matty Hong, who just did La Rambla 9a+, reports on Instagram that he has done another one, Joe Kinder's Joe Mama in Oliana. He did his first 9a+, Papichulo, one year ago. He also did 25 routes 8b+ and harder in 2016 and received the Sport Climbing Piton from Climbing. How many sessions did it take and how can you best explain your step up in grades? It took me 5 days of work. I've been climbing more than ever this past year, I think just being able to spend more time outdoors has really helped my climbing and motivation. Finishing school was a big part of this.

Steve Townshend, ฤlen 8a komunity od roku 2000, navลกtรญvil Railay a svoj projekt Greed 8c+ dokopy 4krรกt. V januรกri tohto roka sa dostal zatiaฤพ najฤalej vฤaka perfektnรฉmu a rรฝchlemu ลกtรฝlu, ktorรฝ v ceste pouลพรญva. Treba takisto dodaลฅ, ลพe je celkom vysokรฝ, mรก 190m.

Melissa Le Nevรฉ preliezla 8B+ vo Fontainebleau
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, bรฝvalรก pravidelnรก รบฤastnรญฤka svetovรฉho pohรกra a tretia v celkovom poradรญ sveลฅรกku v boulderingu 2016, oznรกmila na svojom Instagrame, ลพe sa jej podarilo preliezลฅ jej prvรฉ 8B+, Mรฉcanique ร‰lรฉmentaire vo Fontainebleau. (c) Fabian Buhl "Dnes sa mi podarilo preliezลฅ mรดj papierovo najลฅaลพลกรญ boulder, no hlavne moju najvรคฤลกiu vรฝzvu ฤo sa tรฝka dฤบลพky krokov a psychickej odolnosti! Po viacerรฝch pokusoch, kedy som padala v poslednom kroku, som sa koneฤne mohla postaviลฅ na vrchol "mecanique elementaire" 8b+."

Fontainebleaui 8B+ Melissa Le Nevรฉ-tล‘l
Melissa Le Nevรฉ, aki tavaly #3 helyen zรกrta a Boulder Vilรกgkupa รถsszesรญtรฉst rendesen odacsapott bleauban, szรกmol be errล‘l az Instagramjรกn. A 28 รฉves francia leรกnyzรณ a Mรฉcanique ร‰lรฉmentaire nevลฑ hรญressรฉget mรกszta meg, ami az elsล‘ 8B+ -os boulder lett a ticklistjรฉn. "Ma kรฉpes voltam lekรผldeni a papรญrforma szerinti legnehezebb mรกszรกsom ever, de legfล‘kรฉpp a nehรฉz rรฉsze az รณriรกsi mozdulatok csinรกlhatรณsรกgรกnak elfogadรกsa รฉs a mentรกlis oldal volt. Miutรกn kiestem az legutolsรณ mozdulatรกbรณl a bouldernek, vรฉgรผl sikerรผlt kiรกllni a "mecanique elementaire" 8b+ tรถmbjรฉnek tetejรฉre." Melissa 9 aktรญv รฉven keresztรผl versenyzett vilรกgkupรกkon, tรถbbszรถr รกllt dobogรณn - kรฉt mรกsodik helyezรฉs a legkemรฉnyebb eredmรฉnye, a 2016 รฉvben pedig a 3. lett az รถsszesรญtett WC ranglistรกn. Sajnos ez รฉv vรฉgรฉn be is jelentette a versenyzรฉstล‘l valรณ visszavonulรกsรกt. De nem ล‘ az elsล‘ eset aki a versenyzรฉs befejezรฉsรฉvel kezdett igazรกn kemรฉny sziklรกzรกsba. Kilian Fishhuber is hasonlรณ pรฉlda lehet, aki a versenyzรฉs vilรกgรกtรณl valรณ visszavonulรกsa utรกn mรกszta elsล‘ (รฉs rรถgtรถn mรกsodik) 8C boulderรฉt a 'From Dirt Grows the Flowers' - Graham bouldert รฉs az 'Insanity of Grandeur' Koyamada plafonkimรกszรกst - mindkettล‘t Svรกjcbรณl. Egyรฉbkรฉnt Melissa neve mellett mรฉg szรกmos รฉrdekessรฉget meg kell emlรญtenรผnk. Tรถbbek kรถzรถtt nem csak boulderben jeleskedik, mรกszott 8c+ sportutat รฉs elsล‘ nล‘i megmรกszรณja lett a klasszikus Wallstreet 8c รบtnak Frankenjuraban, ami az elsล‘ ilyen fokozatรบ รบt volt a vilรกgon. Elsล‘ nล‘i megmรกszรณja a Big Five-nak; ami Fontainebleau-ban lรฉvล‘ 5 hรญres รฉs nehรฉz boulder egyรผttese, a klubba pedig csak azok csatlakozhatnak akik mindegyik tรถmb tetejรฉre kiรกllnak... (7C-8A) fokozatot kell ehhez prezentรกlni.

Steve Townshend, member of 8a since 2000, has done four trips to Railay projecting Greed 8c+. This January he made another high point with his amazing speed climbing perfectionist style and he is 190 cm tall.

Dmitrii Fakirianov signs up with 8c onsight
Dmitrii Fakirianov, double Youth World Champion who finished the 2016 Lead WC with 3- 2 - 5, is a new 8a member who just onsighted Fish Eye 8c in Oliana. The Russian is on an onsight training camp in Spain; he has also onsighted four 8a+ and harder, and flashed Fabelita 8c in Santa Linya. "Before I didn't climb so much on rocks. In Europe I had the opportunity to climb on rocks in 2013 in Arco, Massone and there I did Renis Vibes 8c/+. After that in 2015 in Crimea. I did the first ascent of a very hard route named "Christmas Party". It was harder than Renis Vibes I think. I was the only one who finished it. I wanted to be humble and I graded it as "8c+/?" because I didn't tried and climbed before 9a. So how was it onsighting an 8c? "For me it was hard more mentally than physically because I didn't before onsight so high grade categories. I think that route was my style: after hard sections - rest positions, long route. It's always not so easy to break some barriers when you connecting with something new. For me in this situation that barrier was category 8c. What are you next plan and ambition? I have some plans to work on my climbing technic and strength. And to compete in some national comps. I will also soon start training Speed in order to go for the Olympics.

Impressive climbing scene in Iran
Khosro Hashemzadeh, who just onsighted Olympos Games 8b (a+) in Geyikbayฤฑrฤฑ, gave us some insight into the impressive climbing scene in Iran. Khosro has been an elite climber, coach, and route setter for many years in Tehran. "We have climbing in almost all the cities around the Iran, maybe more than 3000 climbers around the country. Also lots of outdoor climbing around the country specially in the west side of Iran. Karmanshah is the most famous one in Iran with maybe more than 500 sport routes and also a big wall (Bisotun 1200 meter) with around 50 lines on it. Also we have lots of gyms around Iran and probably all the cities have one at least. For example in Tehran there are 5 or 6 great gyms which are working pretty well. Competitions are just like all the Ifsc comps around the world and we have almost 5 or 6 national cups around Iran in all the 3 fields of climbing. Also a national team which participate in most of the world and Asian cups. We usually have to pay for all the world cups ourselves. The federation just sends sometimes a small number of people to championships. Reza Alipour was runner up in last Speed World Champion and Ali Baratzadeh normally makes it to Boulder WC semis."

From March 25th to March 26th we organize an international bouldercup in our bouldering-gym Studio Bloc in Pfungstadt, Germany: Studio Bloc Masters This bouldercup is opened for hobby- and professional boulderers, so that everybody is able to take part. Fortunately this cup unites bouldering as a spare time activity and that kind of professional athletics. Names like Alexei Ruptsov (Russia), Chon Jongwon (Korea) or Jan Hojer (Germany) are already registered. With an entire prize money of 10.000,-โ‚ฌ, Blocmasters are in no way inferior to other named cups. So, there will be a spectacular day of semi-finals and finals. But this event wonยดt be a commercial bouldercup, all profits will be donated to "Climbers Against Cancer" (CAC).

9a (+) by Sรฉbastien Bouin in Terradetts
Sebastien BOUIN, who previously has done over 20 routes 9a, half of them FAs, has done Definicion de la resistencia dรฉmocrata for which he gives a personal 9a grade. "Finish the job is important! Even if you are close, you have to stay focus. Sometime is the more important." The 23 year old French has previously suggested personal down grades for six former 9a to 9b+' included some very famous ones. (c) Jonas Wiklund