Mark Brand, with two 8B+’ under his belt, has completed The Big Island (8C) in Fontainebleau. “Wow, really happy with this one. Such an iconic hard boulder in Font. Couldn't train much over the last little while and felt a bit out of shape before coming, so it was surprising how well this boulder went. No expectations, just joy.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
So yeah, I decided to take a short trip to Fontainebleau just after setting for the Youth Boulder Nationals. I hadn't really been able to train much in the period prior and hadn't climbed outside since the end of October, so I didn't have any big expectations or goals for the trip. It was quite warm over the weekend, but some overcast weather made me decide to have a session on The Big Island to check where my shape was at. I had tried it before, but always just a singular session with months to a years between them. The session went suprisingly well, quickly doing the boulder in two parts and sticking the crimp twice in a window of 5 minutes.

On Tuesday I had a shorter session in full sun, but felt too tired from Sunday and the 'restday'on Monday. The day after temperatures dropped a bit and it was cloudy. I went back to The Big Island, just to see how much progression I could make before heading home. There was no real pressure to do the boulder, the boulder felt possible to me and I could always come back later. I was already happy with the progression I made on the boulder, which put me in a good headspace to just enjoy the session and see how far I could push it this trip.

Conditions were definitely a bit better than before and I felt good while warming up. After some tries and a small beta change I ended up sticking the foot transistion after getting the crimp (which was the redpoint crux for me) and I climbed the boulder. It felt amazing to finish such an iconic line in Fontainebleau and one that has been living in the back of my mind for quite a while.

How come you think it was possible to send with not so much training or outdoor climbing lately? How was your mental game?
I didn't have a lot of expectations before coming and even after the first session I was content with just seeing how much progession I could make on the boulder. This put me in a good place to just enjoy the sessions. Also knowing could quite easily come back another time, be it in a couple of weeks or at the end of the year when it is a bit colder. This all made me feel no real pressure even when giving it proper goes.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen, who flashed his first 8B last year, has flashed ADHS (8B) in Schwarzenbach a.d.S., and here is the Instagram video. Some have actually said that the Moritz Perwitzschky’ Boulder is possibly the best 8B in Germany.

Can you tell us more about the flash?
ADHD is a lonely boulder, about one hour north of the Frankenjura. It looks amazing! My friend Lorenz Ulmer brought it to my attention and got me all motivated to go for a flash attempt. I was a bit hesitant at first, but had to promise Lorenz I would go for it :-)

Normally I don't like to do a proper warmup on a hangbord, but this time I took some extra effort to do it all: pull ups, fingers, shoulders, hamstrings. Walking a few times to the boulder between my different warm up exercises to feel those holds. More and more I started to believe I could flash this. And for some reason, there was no added pressure, just focus. When I was finally ready, I was totally in the zone. I hit every hold perfect, it felt like I already did these moves before. Even the little heel zip did not put me out of my concentration. Standing on top there was a mixture of joy and amazement 🔥 Holy shit 🔥 One hour driving, one hour hangbord, one minute climbing, one hour driving back. Worth it! Huge thanx to Lorenz 🙏

Hugo Parmentier, with 13 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has repeated Chris Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+) in Oliana. (c) William Barcello – PhotoVertical.com

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the long trip coming up?
So basically we build a van all the autumn till mid january. The plan is to go climbing during a whole year in France and neigbour countries with my girlfriend Tess. We started the trip to Oliana and stayed there for 1 month and a half. We needed to get back to real climbing after 3 months of tiring work in the garage to make our new home.

I went back to Papichulo which I tried a lot over 1 month and a half last winter. This route is pretty far from my usual hard projects choices as it’s super long, resistant and requires the ability to rest and poor holds and climb on sustain climbing for ever. It has been such a hard process last year getting stuck for something like 20 tries in the second move after the main rest. Making almost no progression was so hard mentaly. This year having a real “home” and lot of time ahead helped a lot! I gave basically 1 try a day and then climb other thing to keep my motivation high! Thanks to Laura Rogora’s beta. I could skip the cross move that kept me falling last year! Then I could progress on pretty much every try that led to the damn Sennnnd !!!

Pretty cool we share the send try with my parents for their first day a the cliff and with close Friends! Such an interesting experience on this route that began to teach me patience. Really glad for the people I met there and the whole experience eventhough it was tough.

Simon Lorenzi reports on Instagram that he has repeated Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Red Rocks, after projecting it for some 35 sessions. The 28-year-old active competition climber has previously done the FA of Soudain seul (9A), repeated Alphane (9A) and Burden of Dreams (9A). Including some 8C+’, the active competition climber has the most impressive boulder tick list in the world together with Will Bosi. (c) Bobby McGee Vannoy

”Last day, best day before my flight back to Belgium and the end of my visa. Best way to end my trip with a good crew and energy at the Boulder”.

What are your next plan?
Enjoy climbing in Europe with my friends with no pressure.

Are you going to compete in 2025?
Yes, in the 3 boulder World Cups in Europe.

Which could possibly be your fifth 9A?
Megatron! The next year or this fall I hope to complete the one I miss from the 5 firsts V17.

What about doing one more 9A FA
I’d be psyched to try the right exit of Alphane yeah but we’ll see.

Manuel Werth, who did his first 8b+ four months ago, has completed Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco. The 36-year-old runs an apple and wine farm close to Bolzano.

Can you tell us more about your climbing background and your rapid progress the last few months?
I think I've been climbing for 15 years, but for the last two years I've been doing simple training exercises and noticed a small improvement right away. During the last seven months, I've been consciously following a healthy diet, and incredibly, that's why I've improved so much.

How come you started training more and what type of exercises did you begin with?
I was lucky enough to meet Alfredo Webber who always accompanies me to his bolted routes in Arco and he motivated me to project something harder.

I started with fingerboard and fingerlift training as well as a little bit of spray Wall climbing and also one time a week a moonboard session.

Last year, a friend made me a training plan that I incorporate into my training week. I think The best and hardest thing is to maintain consistency and not lose motivation.

How much do you train nowadays compared to two years ago?
Three times a week training and once a week rock. Before only two training sessions a week?

Have you lost weight due to the more healthier diet?
I control my food closely, which isn't easy. I was able to lose 10 kg without losing almost any muscle mass. Yesterday [after the send] I ate pizza, icecream and a lot of Bier 😅🥳

Which are the next routes you plan to try?
My wife forbid me to think about that😝😅. I want to climb some easier routes that I have had in mind for a long time. Then I heard about the new 9a 3 Mou polacche. Maybe I could try and also Thunder Ribes in Massone I think can be my style. I like endurance routes.

Babsi Zangerl, with a dozen routes 8c+ and beyond under her belt, has done Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco. In the world of multi-discipline climbing—including trad and big-wall—Babsi is the top female climber and confidently ranks among the overall Top 5, regardless of gender. (c) Matteo Bavona

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Solitary souls is a 35m long endurance line. Very steep and very pumpy. I already tried it last winter but it was always wet during a long period of time. This year I came back and the whole line was completely dry and I was psyched to invest some time to gain some endurance back.

After 7 days of getting too pumped to connect the hardest part of the route I finally felt ready to fight through and clip the chains.

Eli Perry, who did his first 8C last October, has repeated Pegasus (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT) after trying it for some 50 sessions.

Can you share more details about the ascent and the progress made throughout the lengthy process?
I started working pagan low v13 December of 2023 and I managed to send it quicker than I expected, so I figured I’d try the low, Pegasus. All the moves went pretty quick so I got pretty sucked into the idea of doing the full line. I tried all throughout that winter and spring, constantly dealing with splitting my pointer finger on this really sharp tooth and just too hot or too cold of conditions. Ended up projecting it all through the following fall and winter too. I kept learning little tiny bits of micro beta and new tactics that eventually led to the send just the other day on March 8th.

Have you only been climbing on this the last 3 months and what is next once the big project went down?
Pegasus has been pretty much the only boulder I’ve been trying, I spend a lot of time in the gym in between sessions and I made it out to Vegas and Bishop for a trip but mostly just trying Pegasus.

I’ve put a good amount of time on Grand Illusion (8C+) and I’m hoping to put a lot more time on it this spring so I can hopefully get it done. Also heading to Rocklands this summer so hopefully can take down some more blocs out there!

Shauna Coxsey reports with an Instagram video that she has repeated Jim Pope’s Lupin (8B) at Stanton in the Woods. It is basically a one mover dyno from a sit start which took Shauna three sessions to complete. ”Worst foot holds I’ve ever used? Quite possibly?”

The 32-year-old, who has won eleven World Cup gold medals, retired from competition after the Tokyo Olympics. She has climbed five 8B+ boulders in total, four of them in the past year.

We’re pleased to announce our collaboration with the German Alpine Club (DAV): From now on, all official national climbing competitions in Germany will be managed through the Vertical Life Result Service. This means athletes, fans, and organizers benefit from real-time results, rankings, and a more streamlined competition experience. Very soon, competition results will also be available directly on Vertical Life. Our aim is to make the sport of climbing as accessible and straightforward as possible for everyone involved, while continuing to boost enthusiasm for the sport. You can find all information and results for DAV competitions here:
👉 DAV Result Service
We look forward to a successful partnership with the DAV and the entire German climbing community.

Dylan Chuat, with five 9a+’ under his belt, has repeated Shawn Raboutou’s L'oeuvre (9a) in Bas-Valais. ”One of the most beautiful lines in Valais at this level. For me, there are three 9a in Valais that form a trilogy: Mola Mola, L’Œuvre and Black Beauty. Thanks to Sam [Ometz] for accompanying me and allowing me to complete the route so quickly (3 tries). I finished the day well by flashing La bête humaine (8b+). Can’t wait to come back to try the project with my friend.”