Liting Xu jumps two grades and does Fragile Steps 8B in Rocklands in just four sessions. She lives in Singapore which means that she just once a year can go for a climbing trip. "I got my first 8A in Bishop back in 2014, but haven't really been pushing my grade on my other yearly trips. This year I told myself that since it was my 2nd trip to Rocklands, I wanted to find a problem I like to project on and experience what it's like to push myself. I love climbing outdoors. This really means a lot to me :)"

Nika Potapova, who has been totally superior in the European Cup this year, has set a new female Zlagboard record with 02:02:94 in a Vertical-Life event during the World Cup in Chamonix. Video Although many world class climbers had a go, only 12 climbers (10 male, 2 female) have managed to hang for more than 2 minutes. Ramón Puigblanque has the current record at 02:44.35. The organizers of the Zlagboard Contest promise 1,500€ for a new hangtime record. Nika will be able to go for the prize money when she turns 16 in 2019.

Marcello Bombardi, who was #28 in the World Cup 2016, started the season by being #7 in the European Championship and now he won in Chamonix when he entered his first WC final. In fact, four guys topped the route and based on count back, the Italian won against Keiichiro Korenaga having topped faster! Complete results 1. Marcello Bombardi ITA 2. Keiichiro Korenga JPN 3. Yuki Hada JPN 4. Romain Desgranges FRA 5. Loic Timmermans It should also be noted that 22 guys topped both the qualifications routes and the first route was actually topped by 42 climbers. In other words, this was possibly the worst route setting since IFSC started in 1989. The live-streaming was excellent with follow up interviews and also that for the first in 2017 a clock was visible in the screen and also for the climbers. On the other hand, as it turned out to be a route where it was about climbing the fastest, it was difficult to follow who climbed faster.

Janja Garnbret cruised the final route with ease and said it was amazing to do in front of the huge crowd but also that she was not even pumped. Anak Verhoeven, who made the first top, was pleased but at the same time frustrated as she thought they deserve harder routes as they train hard. Including the male four tops, the commentators tried to say it was a great show but in the end everyone agreed that it was a big route setting mistake again. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Jain Kim KOR 3. Anak Verhoeven BEL 3. Tina Johnson Hafsaas NOR 5. Jessica Pilz AUT Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

I have used my Grigri for at least 15 years as I think it works better lowering down than the Grigri2. Sure the new version can handle thinner and thicker ropes but as I prefer around 9.8, my old one is perfect. The new Grigri+ is optimized for ropes in between 8.9 to 10.5 mm which is really impressive, as well as the anti-panic function. It seems almost impossible that even a beginner can drop you to the ground. There is also a top-rope or a lead belay mode but the difference is not so big and there is not a problem to lead in top-rope mode or vice versa. From a safety perspective, Grigri+ is a big step ahead and you can understand that it will be popular for guides, instructors and indoor gyms. For an experienced climber, I would still recommend one of the first two models. The Grigri+ has the advantage that it comes with a stainless steel wear plate but my 15 year old very well used Grigri still shows no sign of wear. The big disadvantage with Grigri+ is that the anti-panic function makes it harder lower down my kids and the same thing goes for lowering down my wife, when there is rope drag. More info

The Lead World Cup in Chamonix begins today with the qualification at 10.00. Updated results Live-Streaming from the male semifinal today 20:00-22:30 and for the female tomorrow between 11:00-13.30. Finals 20:50-22:30 tomorrow.

Markus Jung has done his third 9a in Frankenjura, Black Label. "Such a good climb! Doesn't feet soft for the grade. Had to struggle with the first boulder. Harder than Essential (which I also climbed on a hot summer day).

The first male qualification route in Chamonix was topped by 46 athletes and the second route got 23 tops. Overall, 22 climbers topped both routes which is a new IFSC record since the World Cup was started in 1989. During the semifinal, we did not see any tops but three + three guys had the same results, meaning time will be used to split these guys if they get to the same hold in the final. In other words, we just might see the climbers try to climb faster than normal during the final. Complete results The female semifinal starts 11:00 tomorrow and it will be streamed-live.

Loic Zehani has recorded his third 9a FA in Orgon, Les mollahs du mollard, which took 15 tries. Video "The route was bolted by Olivier Bert in the most overhung part of the Le Bergerie sector, located in Orgon. The principal difficulty of the route is the stamina first 30 moves. The last part is very easy. The other difficulty is to clip all the quickdraws because of the old wall of a sheep-fold just under the route."

Vadim Timonov, who has been Top-20 in the last three Boulder World Cups, has done his second 8C, Triangular face in Triangular Lake. "This is my long-standing project over which I worked for two years. About 18 powerful moves on very small crimps. Until recently, I thought it was impossible to climb in one part." The Russian's next plan is the European Championship and after that doing a trip to either Albarracin or Magic Wood.