Julia Fiser, who was #9 in the Innsbruck World Cup 2024, has done Tunnelblick (8c+) in Achleiten. ”🥹 Almost 5 years after my first try. So many things happened in between. Proud that I never gave up. Yesterday, everything just aligned and it felt effortless, leaving me wondering how it took me so long. But also, I wouldn't want it any other way. What a beautiful journey 🩷” (c) Tobias Lanzanasto

Can you tell us more about your beautiful journey?
Last autumn, I set myself the goal of finishing two old projects of mine which I both first tried in 2020: Wassermusik at Schleier Wasserfall and Tunnelblick in Achleiten. I was quite lucky on Wassermusik, because it tends to be wet all the time, but in November all the holds were more or less dry and I managed to finish it. I had a session or 2 on Tunnelblick before training started again in December. The moves felt good and especially the crux felt better than ever before. But I was clearly lacking the endurance to arrive at the crux without too much pump to actually be able to hold these small crimps. Last week I just finished an intense endurance training block and I knew soon it’s gonna be too warm in Achleiten, so I decided to have one more day on it before the first Lead Worldcups in Asia.

When I pulled off the ground last Tuesday, I felt a bit shaky in the first slabby part. I wasn't surprised about that, this was supposed to be my warmup try. But when the "real" climbing began, I've never felt more calm. My head was clear, no "what if's", just pure focus on the next move. The flow state that we all seek and admire. In the back of my mind, after I passed the first crux, I somehow already knew that I'll do it this time. Yet I stayed calm and let my body do the work. When I did the last crux, which threw me off so many times, without any problems this time, I wondered how it took me so long. Now I realise that it only felt so easy because it took me so long. I can now appreciate every single moment I spent on the route in the last 5 years. I understand that the journey that lead me to climb Tunnelblick truly turned me into a better climber. Not just physically, but mostly mentally.

I want to thank every person that spent time with me on the route and in Achleiten in general. Every single one of you shaped me in some way or another. Grateful for this community <3

IFSC reports that the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics will feature separate events for Lead, Boulder, and Speed with a total athlete quota of 38 across both men and women. This marks a shift from the Tokyo 2020 format, where all three disciplines were combined into a single event. At Paris 2024, Lead and Boulder were contested together, while Speed had its own standalone event.

The IFSC President Marco Scolaris comments, "From the very beginning of our Olympic journey we have always had the target of three sets of medals for our athletes. Each of our disciplines has its own unique strengths, and now everyone will see these at LA28. “I’m happy to be at this point in our history thanks to a fantastic collaborative effort from so many people. The Climbing community; from the athletes to the spectators to the staff all working together. I’m personally grateful to the IOC and LA28, working together in these last months was a great human and sport experience. LA28 will be an ever-bigger celebration for Climbing."

Lara Trinkl, who the last month sent four 8A’s and placed #6 in the Austria National, has in one session, done Magnolia rechts Stehstart (8A+) in Mixnitz. The last month, she was #6 in the Austria Nationals.

Can you tell us more about the quick ascent?
The boulder is located at a very cool area nearby. When I saw it, I thought it wouldn't suit me at all. I actually wanted to try my project there, but it felt impossible that day. So instead I joined my friends who were already trying this boulder. I quickly found a beta that suited me and managed all the single moves pretty much straight away. A few tries later I managed to send it and I am extremely happy and excited about it.

Simone Tentori, with seven 8C’s under his belt, has completed Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. ”I got emotional up there... Beyond psyched to have climbed this beast.” (c) Siara Fabbri

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I start seriously trying Ephyra when Elias Iagnemma asked me to join him when he was trying in February. Before that I put my hands on the crux a couple of times with no success. Climbing with him got me really psyched and with his beta I could unlock all the moves for the first time. I perfected my way on the stand (sissyfuss 8A+) until I could do it on command all the time in a static way with the high foot. So for me it was all about the crux span move the the left pinch and piecing it together.

It was a really enjoyable process since each session I felt very relaxed and motivated just to be there trying hard. Even when I was really close I never felt the pressure to send. In the last few years I expose myself a lot on difficult boulders and I'm working hard on my mental approach and this was the perfect challange to prove that I'm going in the right direction. It was for sure my most memorable climbing moment and my hardest ascent so far.

Brooke Raboutou has become the first woman to complete a 9b+ ascent by repeating Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur in Arco. The 23-year-old started projecting it during a trip in the end of last year and returned to Arco for her big project last month. Adam Ondra was the first to climb a 9b+ route in 2012, and before Brooke, only eight other climbers had achieved the same grade.(c) Crimp-Films

Brooke, who got the silver in the Paris Olympics, is also famous for her outstanding Boulder tick list including a handful 8B+’, one 8C as well as one 8A+ flash.

Michele Reusa, who two years ago at age 16 did his first 9a, has done the FA of Majin buu (9a) in Falesia del ghëddo.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Majin buu does the whole first part of Saiyan (8c) and then turns left with a very hard block and a resistance part, a very beautiful route with spectacular movements bolted by my father Iuri Reusa. I have already started trying a new project, Super Saiyan (9a), which could probably be 9a+. It was freed by my brother and given 9a but in my opinion it could be harder than 9a comparing it also with other pitches of the grade.

Any competition plans for 2025?
I have prepared for the 2025 Coppa Italia Lead Senior circuit and the Italian Senior Championship. I hope to participate in some senior Europa Cup!

David Bermudez Carbonell, with six 9a’s under his belt, has during the last four weeks onsighted four 8a+’ and Niña mala (8b).

Can you tell us more about your focus on onsight?
I’ve always liked onsight climbing a lot, but in the past few months, I’ve been focusing on it in a different way because I’ve started traveling more to new areas with my climbing team, Sputnik Climbing. With the help of my trainers, I’ve managed to better visualize the routes from the ground and understand other important things to focus on.

In my opinion, onsight climbing is very important for developing skills that you can’t work on when trying a route multiple times. Giving an onsight attempt with all your energy is much more interesting than a redpoint, but sometimes people don’t find it appealing because onsight climbing pushes you out of your comfort zone—unlike redpointing, where you’re allowed more tries. I also like redpoint climbing, but it’s good to alternate it with onsight climbing.

Gonzalo Larrocha, who sent Selección anal del fuego (9a+) in January [pictured], has done Grabando el pasado (9a) in Santa Linya and Brownie Chulo (9a) in Oliana.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
Both routes are easier versions of the original Mercenaris del passat (8c+) [not repeated since 2007 due to broken hold] and Papichulo (9a+).

Grabando el pasado: Start with a route that I bolted and then go straight to the main boulder of Mercenaris. In my opinion it is one the most endurance demanding routes in the cave.

Brownie chulo: Start on the left side of Joe Blau and arrive to Papichulo just below the second boulder after the ledge. So you should climb the second a third boulder of Papi an the upper part of this route. The main reason to try this, is that I don't feel it is possible to do the original version. This is what weak people should do.

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France set a new benchmark at the European Boulder Cup in Rome, with their four male participating climbers sweeping the top four positions. On the women’s side, they added to their success by claiming both the gold and bronze medals. In the first stage of the Euro Cup held last month in Munich, four French men finished in the top six. The third event will take place in Brussel 3-4/5 and previous to that the Boulder World Cup kicks off in Keqiao, Japan on April 18. (c) IFSC

1. Leo Favet FRA 69.8 - Lily Abriat FRA 74.9
2. Antoine Girard FRA 69.6 - Stella Giacani ITA 69.6
3. Noe Moutault FRA 59.9 - Lucile Saurel FRA 59.8

The new point-based scoring system awards 25 points for reaching the top and 10 points for reaching the zone, with a deduction of 0.1 points for each attempt.