NEWS

Biographie 8c+ by Laura Rogora (16) after just four days!
Laura Rogora, who was #6 in both the European Championship and Villars WC, reports on Instagram that she has done the 8c+ part of the legendary Biographie in Cรฉรผse. In fact, she skipped the Briancon WC as she was a bit tired from all the comps and wanted to climb on rock. Video of when the 151 m tall first did the bouldery start, which is due to a broken hold much harder in comparison to when Chris Sharma did the FA of Realization which is her goal. - The start was the hardest for me. It took me three days to do the boulder. I did all the moves of the second 9a+ part. I tried it for 4 days doing 2-3 tries per day. Previously the 16 year old has done two 9a's and three 8c+'s, out of one has been suggested to be upgraded to 9a by the first repeater. In other words, the young Italian who mainly trains in a bouldering gym in Rome is currently one of the best female climbers in the world.

Garnbret win her third straight WC
Janja Garnbret took another great victory in Briancon ahead of Anak Verhoeven and Jain Kim. Out of the 14 World Cups and Championships she has done, the 17 year old has made the podium all but once. Add to that, she is #2 in the Boulder World Cup after having won two events. It should also be noted that it was almost a perfect separation during the final. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

1. DESGRANGES Romain 255 - GARNBRET Janja 300 2. BOMBARDI Marcello 163 - VERHOEVEN Anak 210 3. KORENAGA Keiichiro148 - KIM Jain 200 4. SKOFIC Domen 142 - PILZ Jessica 153 5. GHISOLFI Stefano 139 - MAROVIC Mina 146 Complete results

9a again by Roberto Podio (36)
Roberto Podio has done Tomorrowland L2 in Collepardo suggesting an upgrade to 9a. Laura Rogora made the FA last autumn when she was just 15 years old. "In February, I did Grandi Gesti, my first 9a, and yesterday I finally did Tomorrowland. I cannot express an opinion with certainty about the grade of these two routes because I donโ€™t have experience at this level, but I can make a comparison and say without doubts that I found the second one far more difficult." Interestingly, the 36 year old set a 8c personal best last year and then he skipped one grade and has done potentially two 9a's in 2017. The simple explanation could be that he previously had done his routes within some 25 tries but for his 9a's, he used 58 respectively 77 tries.

Three current best females have topped the first three routes in Briancon meaning that who climbs faster will decide who wins if they are tied also in the final. Among the males, only one hold separated the first eleven best meaning count back decided who made it to the final. It was obvious that the male route was way too easy in the start. Complete results The Live-streaming starts 20:00.

If any of Anak Verhoeven, Janja Garnbret or Jain Kim get the same final scoring, they will be tied by who climbed the fastest. However, for the spectators as well as for the commentators it is very hard to know, "who is in the lead" after they have climbed half the routes. In practice, if there is a top before Garnbret starts, it will be hard to compare her time up on the route and some excitement will be lost. Further more, if nobody tops but Garnbret came to the same hold, it might take some time before the spectators and the commentators will understand who won. The best solution for giving instant results as well as increasing excitement would be to add some split-times that would be visible. Once Garnbret gets to hold #10, 20, 30 and 40 etc, a ranking can be showed meaning that if they time on hold 42+, the split time on hold 40 could decide who won.

Desgranges win again
Romain Desgranges took his third big victory by winning in Briancon. The French started competing among the seniors 15 years ago but had hard times to get even close to the semifinal. Throughout a steady continous progress he was #3 overall last year and already midways in the season he has taken a big lead overall. Runner up was Sean McColl who previously have hard time performing at his normal podium level. It should also be noted that there were no ties in the male final so great work from the route setters. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

Flash = Comfortable super light harness
Flash is a great harness innovation from CAMP at 235 grams and still it is comfortable while giving you the optimal freedom of movement. The other day I used it for bolting and at the end I used if for the full day bolting as it was comfortable enough. Here is the explanation. "Load Webbing construction with structural longitudinal threads that allow for a wider cross section for greater support without the added weight of traditional webbing. The construction allows for a significant reduction in the number of stitch points to minimize the profile and maximize comfort and safety. With the Flash, we have also integrated 3 mm of padding adhered directly to the webbing for increased comfort." The innovative construction also means that you can squeeze it together in a very small bag that fits in a jacket pocket or so. Further more, the Speed-buckle is working really great. The only down side we have found is that you can not adjust the straps at the back and they felt pretty long but possibly that was because we, 65 kilo guys, tried a medium one.