NEWS

Arco Lead World Cup starts tomorrow at 9:00 with qualifications. Live-streaming begins Saturday with semifinal 11:00-13:30 and finals 17:00. Updated results Alex Megos was #7 in the Munich World Cup after just one week of indoor bouldering which was quite a shock as he, after having qualified as #17 in the semifinal, reported "Whaaat??!! Almost can't believe what just happened today!" The big news is that he is going to compete in the Arco Lead WC and with another shocking performance he could start thinking about the Olympics. The other interesting news for Arco is that Adam Ondra, Jan Hojer and Ashima Shiraishi will be there. The 16 year old will also compete in Speed in preparation for the Olympics.

First 9a by Bruno Garcรญa
Bruno Garcรญa B has done his first 9a, Lujuria in Jilotepec and here is a short video trailer. Together with his brother Richie. Rebeca Zuniga is following them doing a documentary - Climbing Mexico. "Bruno began his history with climbing when a tragic incident happened to his family. His older brother, who was an active climber, died in an accident. His family got the support of the amazing climbing community and Bruno, along with his brother Ricardo, and his twin sister Claudia began to explore their brother's love for climbing. Soon they were in love with it themselves."

Bulgaria got three golds was the best nation during Arco Rock Master under 14. Italy got two golds, not counting the many shared golds, and was the second best country. Surprisingly, Austria who normally dominates youngster events, was not so successful and actually did not have many competing. Most competitors and also good results came from countries in Eastern Europe. Complete results

9a again by Mathieu Bouyoud
Mathieu Bouyoud has, after two weekends of work including some ten tries, done his 15th 9a, La Prophรฉtie des Grenouilles in Fournel. "It's a connection between the 8c "Une Arquรฉe pour un Criquet" and the 8b "La Croix de Toulouse". A long route in a magic place where Yann Ghesquier did the FA." His next plan is to do another 9a in La Balme, where he already has done seven 9a's and one 9a+ FA. In the ranking game, the Frenchman is #5.

9a FA by Andy Raether again
Andy Raether has done his second 9a FA, Manphibian in Mt Charleston which is an extension of the unrepeated Spyfiction 8c+ from 2012. That route took some 7 months only working on that and now he added four months for the 9a extension. (c) Lacey Jones "Manphibian follows this gorgeous line out a super steep face and into a blank looking steep arete and is capped off by a gruesome slab finish. The most difficult climbing is the beginning and the boulder problem up the arete right after Spyfiction. This route also has the most "keep you honest" finish of pretty much any route I have ever done, because after all the most difficult climbing is over, you still need do execute a 12+ slab section that if you aren't absolutely perfect then you're done." In total, Andy with no shoe or rope sponsor, has put up some 300 routes and 600 boulders. Interesting is that the hardest grades he has repeated are 8c and the latest was five years ago. "Honestly I climb way harder on my own routes. For me I really love all the hard work of bolting, cleaning, and sequencing a new line. Others' work is usually less intriguing to me. Plus I have zero money for climbing trips. Recently I've started bolting at a few completely new crags that previously had no routes."

If Combined climbing had mad it to the Olympics 15 years ago, we would have had a mega star with some gold medals hanging around his neck. We are talking winning different disciplines the same day? Now he works anonymously as an IFSC route setter. An interesting interview is coming up also explaining how to train for Tokyo 2020. The background for the interview is that his kid has just set some new records. Who is it?

9a FA by Thibault Lair again
Lair Thibault has done his third 9a FA, La minute de rรฉsi, 9a in Lourdes. In the 8a ranking game, the French man is #14. "This is a 3-route connection, 40 movements of pure endurance. It took me about 15 sessions. Evening after work sessions were necessary to do the route. Even if it is not a king line, still very happy to do this big chunk of endurance!"

Jimmy Webb repeats Creature from the Black Lagoon 8C+ in RMNP
Jimmy Webb reports on Instagram that he has done Daniel Woods' problem Creature from the Black Lagoon, a RMNP 8C+ boulder repeated previously by Dave Graham. (C) Hannah Donnelly "One of my main goals of the trip is complete with the 3rd ascent of the ultra sick @dawoods89 test piece 'Creature from the Black Lagoon' V16. After 6 days of work gaining the necessary power, power endurance, and alpine fitness I was finally able to take it down. Feels so damn good to climb such a stunner!! Still got plenty of time left in the alpine and there's tons more to do." Jimmy probably is the best flash climber ever and was #1 in the ranking game for a while and now he is #3 in the world ranking game.

First 9a+ by Jorge Dรญaz-Rullo
Spanish youngster Jorge Diaz-Rullo did his first 9a+ Ali Hulk Extension in Rodellar. It is the 3rd repeat of Dani Andrada's route since 2007. In the picture onsighting Detectives 8a. (c) Carlos Padilla "I can't believe it yet! So happy! After 10 days working on the cave I could do it today. Thanks to all my friends for supporting me and specially to Octavio, who was pulling me up to try the moves. So nice, then celebrating and kept saying "don't stop!" Not too many references about the grade, Andrada said at first as well as Danilo Pereyra and Magnus Midtbรธ in the 9a/+ and 9a+ range." Jorge is in holidays right there in Rodellar with a nice list in just a month. Seven routes from 8c to 9a+.