1. Meichi Narasaki JPN 1 * 1 * 4 = 4 2. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN 2 * 2 * 1 = 4 3. Kai Lightner USA 3 * 3 * 3 = 9 Complete results Japan took another double victory followed by a bronze for USA in Junior male Combined. As all three guys, in fact, are very good Speed climbers performing in between 8.00 to 8.74 seconds, chances are high that some of them will also compete in Tokyo 2020. A highlight of the competition was when Ogata, in his normal yo-yo style, finished one boulder on his 11th attempt. Measuring how many attempts, i.e. training, he puts in when he does not top, as well as his senior WC results, he should already now be pointed out as a contender for a medal in Tokyo.

jan kares (43) has done another pullup world record, 583 reps in 30 minutes. Previously he has been a record holder for 30 min (236 reps), 6, 12 and 24 hours etc. New World Record today - 1 033 pullups in 60 min In 1998, he was #17 in a Lead World Cup but nowadays he is a bolting and onsighting fanatic. Since 2008, Jan has spent some 180 days bolting, paying for everything by himself, in Sardinia. That is what he does for all his vacations. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe. The 42 year old has up until now done some 250 routes and he thinks it is possible to make 1 000. He will create a topo through Vertical-Life soon.

1. Semen Ovchinnikov RUS 2 * 2 * 3 = 12 (S * B * L) 2. Rei Kawamata JPN 3 * 1 * 6 = 18 3. Hidimassa Nishida JPN 6 * 4 * 1 = 24 Complete results Semen Ovchinnikov from Russia is the Combined winner in the Youth B after stellar performance in all three disciplines. The Japanese athletes got the three next positions. Interesting is that in the Boulder event, the worst results was four tops in six tries. Pictures and full report at Austria Climbing

In Lead and Boulder, the Japanese Youth B girls got all six medals and in the Combined event they did it again. The final finished by Natsuki and Ai topping out as they also did in the Lead final. 1. Tani Natsuki JPN 1 * 2 * 1.5 = 4.5 2. Mori Ai JPN 5 * 1 * 1.5 = 7.5 3. Ito Futaba JPN 2 * 3 * 3 = 18 Complete results Pictures and full report at Austria Climbing

Another great semifinal round where the two winners in the Youth A Boulder climbed the highest: Ashima Shiraishi and Filip Schenk. Complete results Interesting is that Japan who has dominated previously, did just get one through to the final. The live streaming continues tonight with the finals. 19:00-20:00 Lead Finals Youth A 20:30-21:30 Lead Finals Juniors

Adam Ondra has on his Instagram explained why he named his 9c, Silence. (c) Bernando Gimenez

There was just one Japanese male in Youth A, Shuta Tanaka, and he secured the fifth gold for Japan. Once he had done a spectacular double dyno, almost at the top, he faced the audience and showed them his fighting face before resting and continuing several moves. Among the girls, USA had two athletes participating taking gold and silver, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou. Complete results 1. Shuta Tanaka JPN - Ashima Shiraishi USA 2. Nathan Martin FRA - Brooke Raboutou USA 3. Mikel Linacisoro ESP - Nolwenn Arc FRA

Niccolo Ceria and Martin Mobråten have both repeated Bernd Zangerl's Shantaram, 8C in Osen, Norway. (c) Stefan Kuerzi Ceria, who has done 8C before, just used three days for his send and Mobråten some ten days. He has previously done a few 8B+ and thinks Shantarm should be graded likewise.